26AWG PVC Coated Ultra Flexible Sub-Miniature & Microminiature Wire For General Model Train Use Where Flexing Without Work Hardening Properties Are A Must. Teathers, etc. 10 ft. roll, BLACK: $12.50 ea. (includes shipping in CONUS) BUY HERE: http://lbrenterprisesllc.homes...html?_=1455800106706 Dave, LBR
Coming to our L.E.D. page will be the most used gauge of wire for model trains now days. We will be offering 26AWG SUPER FLEX wire in ten (10) foot rolls. Somewhat higher in price than the Teflon coated 26AWG wire but well worth the difference do to it's flexing capabilities when used for a tether or other applications where flexibility is a must. Dave, LBR
has anyone created a template for this? Like 036 042 054 etc. I think I'm going to try to design my layout around 054 for the curves and was wondering how to make a template for easier bending or if there is an easier way.
Ok, so I'm just making this topic to ask the fourm if you all have a specific and effective way of ballasting flex track and Cork roadbed. I was just visiting a closing Railroad shop not too far from my home and I found woodland senics ballast on sale and I need it, so I bought the packs and now I'm a little confused. My plan is to make a small mixture between elemer's glue and water, and gently spread it between the two roadbeds, (because ym track is double tracked), on the outside of the...
I'm designing my layout that'll be mostly Ross switch and Ross sectional track and roadbed. Will use Gargrave flex for many places. I'm using AnyRail software and inevitably have a few areas that need a filler piece that's not standard. If I fill that with Gargrave's flex it could be pretty small (a few inches) which doesn't sound structurally like a good idea. Should I remove another section of track and go for a longer piece of flex track (maybe a foot) that's easier to manage in its place...
Greeting all. So with the layout I’m building I need a section of flex track. I have the right tool for it. But how do cut the track to fit with the layout and not push the track apart? I am new to using flex track so may input would be nice.
Here is a picture of the jig we used to bend Dual Gauge track down to an O-80. We cut a jig and then attached that to another piece of plywood. 3-4 ties were removed from each end. Next, the track was bent from about 6" inched from the end of the track slowly bending and working the ties. When installed we will have lines drawn to follow and will work from one end to the other.
I would remove a piece of sectional and go with a longer piece of flex or sectional track, cut to fit. Short fitter pieces can cause a noticeable "bump" later on when your trains are running, as they may not lay perfectly flat with respect to the adjacent rails. Longer pieces of track are much easier to manage and greatly reduce or totally eliminate the chance of being flat with adjacent pieces. Paul.
Think if it in terms of laying a floor, would you want to look at a bunch of whole pieces and then one thin slice of something. If you have a for example 38 inch length of track and the flex track is only 36 inches what I would do is divide the 38 section by 2 and use two pieces cut to length. You still have the same number of joints but the spacing is better.
In some cases you end up with a short piece of flex track needed to complete the loop. If you can't shorten the two sections before the small space equally so that you can fill the space with a larger section, put the small cut section in, solder it in place and smooth the joints with a Dremel tool. You should have no problems with this.
No easy way. I have made a cardboard template to spread the ballast evenly across the roadbed. I always pour the diluted Elmer glue mix over the finished job to hold it it place. If you put the glue on first you won't get much ballast attached to glue. Watered down elmers dries clear.
I'm with DK on this one. I knew I would be using Gargraves track and Ross turnouts when I started my layout. I gave Steve at Ross my hand drawn trackplan and layout measurements. He converted it to a scaled out plan and identified all the different radii of track needed with the exception of the "custom curves". He also identified all the turnouts and prepared an full items list and put the package together for me to purchase and pick-up. Fabrication of the "custom" curve trackage was kept...
FWIW, Here are some screen shots of an older thread discussing flex track jigs. You might find the dimensions for the curve radius on the jigs useful, and the photos of the actual jigs to bend the track.
I concur that if you can get sectional curves, that's the easiest way to go. If you want an odd diameter, make a jig and go for it. I find it very useful when I'm "here" and need to get "there". For random pieces, I just bend it on my gut. For a sweeping curve, two screws to anchor it on one end. Then work your way down the length and add screws to hold it as needed. Doesn't look like this part has been mentioned. AFTER you bend it, you'll want to cut the ends square again.
I just bought one section of Atlas track and drew it out on plywood. Created a gauge/ template for 072, 081, and 0100. For really difficult areas I left the desired minimal radii section in the curve and ran flex track out of the center of the curve.
As pictured the green pen is about 36" radius, O 72, the module is 4' X 4'. Inside radius is 4 1/4" less 31 3/4" O63 1/2. The piece, laying free, not installed, is pre-bent by hand, note that there is a good bit of work positioning the ties. All Gargraves track pictured was used from another layout. Two DeWalt (Yellow) tools are pictured. Left is a drill/driver, with a 5/64" drill bit, to pre-drill the ties. Right is an impact drive, with a #1 bit to install Atlas track screws. As the track...
It's tough.. Anything smaller that 072 I would go with sectional track for a perfect curve. Some guys like Mike CT can do a great job . I find it just too difficult to get it right and have it stay right. (2 cents worth).
For me in the past I have found it easier to trace out the curve on a piece of plywood, Cut the plywood to that shape and screw it to the bench top. I then place my track with one end against the jig and clamp it in place. Then just take my time and work from the clamped end around, NOTE- you will have to do this a couple times to get the tie spaced right. But once your done it will hold its form almost to the T.
I have Gargraves flex track 17 1/2" radus or 35" dia. curves at the center rail. I bend it around a round drill press table set on a table. The track is springy get it close to the corect radus, saw off the ends to get straight across ends. Its hard to get the ends of the curve to be the correct curve. I sawed 3 grooves to fit over the track in a stick of wood and use this tool to bend the curve to be correct on the ends of each Gargraves piece.
I cut from ply a curve that I use to bend the GG track. To get the final radii I just re-bend to the exact radii I have drawn on the roadbed. Bending GG is NO where near the horror story I always heard. In fact it was too easy....figured I was doing something wrong.
When you block a person, they can no longer invite you to a private message or post to your profile wall. Replies and comments they make will be collapsed/hidden by default. Finally, you'll never receive email notifications about content they create or likes they designate for your content.
Note: if you proceed, you will no longer be following .