I'm planning on fixing the pilot of my Lionel SD70M (not sure if I want lobster claw or Kadee) and I was wondering if anyone on here has done one of these before and has any tips. Also need a good fuel tank for it.
Last night I went to put 746's on my Atlas CZ cars and was surprised to see that the holes on the underside of the cars didn't line up with the draft gear box. Are the holes on the cars designed for Atlas scale couplers? I thought the holes would be the same for each since putting Kadees on Atlas freight cars is super easy.
Does anyone using Kadee body mount couplers on rolling stock have problems using #4 turnouts as crossovers or in yards? I am working on my 3-rail layout plans with RR-Track to use only Ross turnouts. I am planning to use Ross #4 crossovers (RCS model #175) on the mainline and Ross #4 turnouts (RCS model #200 & #201) in the yards, which will create my only "S" curves. I will use some Ross O72 turnouts, but not as "S" curves. My minimum radius is 36" (O72). Ultimately, I would like to...
That's the plan! Where is the best place could I order one? I was just going to look at the exploded parts diagram of my new ES44s and order one from Lionel, but I am sure there are better ones out there.
I usually grab one from my parts bin. When I convert cars to Kadees I save all those air hoses. I like the MTH air hoses because they are much thinner and have a nicer glad hand than the Atlas part. I also use PSC air hoses and glad hands with real rubber hose... but usually its the MTH air hose.
Most of the first generation PRR road diesels were initially fitted with coupler covers to minimize issues when colliding with vehicles. Around the 1954/5 time frame they began to be removed as the units were shopped. I agree that the coupler covers on the FM diesels are particularly clunky looking. That's a good looking railroad Steven Michael, you are very fortunate to have a true SPF for a Dad and mentor. Ed Rappe
You don't "cut-off" electrocouplers. They are disconnected and removed from the trucks. Kadees are normally mounted to the engine bodies which may have been modified. Most manufacturers have parts available that would allow you to return the engines to their original condition. What engine are you wanting to unconvert? Jan
While the electro-coupler can be removed, the coupler box, if there is one, usually gets in the way of the Kadee coupler box and has to be cut off, usually with a Dremel. Once cut off I suppose if you still had the box it could be glued back on with JB Weld, but all that I have cut off get tossed in the trash.
Hi Bob thanks, I did the same thing. I talked to Doug (Laidoffsick) before I did it. It turned out great, but now Im trading it and the guy who wants it was wondering if they could be put back on. I didn't think so but told him I would ask around on the forum.
Father.Dragon, I never said they had electro-couplers, I am not criticizing lionel couplers. IMO I think that Kadee Couplers look more realistic then do the claw couplers. I do not judge others on there thoughts. Here is the deal, I am trading this engine cause I want to keep my collection to MTH engines. I don't mind Lionel rolling stock cause everything I get or have get's Kadee couplers. If you wish to jump my A** over this then maybe I should delete my post. But thank you for your thoughts.
Mike, ignore him, your post/topic is fine like it is. About the only thing you can do if you ever have a truck mounted electrocoupler pocket that needs to be replaced is to buy a new truck, I don't know if the piece that has the pocket on it can be bought separately though.
Mike Yes, Lionel and MTH for 2R you need 2R trucks or wheel sets. Atlas, Intermountain, Weaver, and Pecos River are sold with 2R trucks. Atlas, Intermountian kits and some Weavers come with Kadees. I would still use the Kadee couplar height gauge for confirmation.
The mounting holes are set up for the Atlas couplers and boxes. The holes are threaded for 2mm screws. You can "force" a kadee plastic box onto an Atlas car by carefully threading in a 2mmx8 screw about 1/3 of the way on the rear hole of the box, then pushing the box inward as you thread in the second screw. The box has enough play to squeeze in. You should also use a shim from MicroMark to get the coupler height right.
I used a simple but very effective way to mount Kadee 805s to the car. I bolt the coupler shank direct to the truck arm as pictured here. The 805s have a long and meaty shank. Use a dab of locktite or a caged nut. If you do not have wide radius curves I'de leave it alone. Good luck, Ron H
Will I just use one hole, and one screw, and quality double sided tape. Been doing this for years on Atlas rolling stock. Yes I do run long heavy trains. However that still doesn't put the coupler box in the correct location. Therefor I don't buy much Atlas.
Wow! Very nice. I also like your concept for mounting everything. Kudos especially for modeling the actual prototype pilot (unique to the SD 80s and 90s) and not simply fabricating a "full" version of the pilot supplied with the model (a re-used SD 60 pilot). Consider making the holes for the handrails smaller, maybe 0.20. Some of use finer wire for full handrails, and newer MTH models are closer to that. The modeler can enlarge them if heavier wire is used. I dabble in UP and broke down and...
Just updated my thread for older Premier SD24. I also covered the SD9/45 which share the same pilots. To be honest. If he can do MTH SD9s/24/45, Alco C628/630, and GP30/9 that would make life easier. I defintly like the idea of body mounted Kadees. https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/t...73#61965511445937073
When you block a person, they can no longer invite you to a private message or post to your profile wall. Replies and comments they make will be collapsed/hidden by default. Finally, you'll never receive email notifications about content they create or likes they designate for your content.
Note: if you proceed, you will no longer be following .