Thanks for the suggestions, everyone. I had a little time to play with the model this morning, and I've incorporated most of them, along with a few other tweaks. Here's the latest: I also added some real estate on the coupler mount to allow the use of screws in lieu of adhesive, if desired. The mount will have reference marks on it for suggested locations that avoid some features in the original body shell. There is enough room to allow up to five screws. I should clarify that the coupler...
Eric, As I'm looking at a couple MTH SD40-2's would be great to see new pilots for SD40-2's with this level of detail! MTH hasn't made these with fixed pilots so the interest level should be fairly high?
Hey, if anyone has the newer SD90 models, could you post a couple pics of the underside and chassis? Here is what mine looks like: I noticed as I was taking measurements on my ES44AC that the chassis and shell have features that I assume are there to accommodate mounting of the 2-rail pilot: Just curious if the newer SD90 models are set up like that as well.
I don't know how many of us there are out there but this is very promising! This might be a nice little side business. I am waiting for some end cab switcher pilots lol! These look much better than the spacer, pilot, shell system I made. Nice work! Dave
I dont have any ES44s but my Dash 8s and 9s were set up that way. I bought all 3 pwered units as 2 rail but also bought the dummy 3 rail so I had all 4 road numbers. The dummy 3 rail had provisions for a 2 rail pilot but the frame was different and had to be cut as it was too long to attach a spacer and pilot.
Yep, the parts arrived while I was on vacation last week. I haven't had a chance to go over them in detail, but a quick fit check looked promising: BTW, if you are ever in the Denver area, be sure to check out the Georgetown Loop Railroad. They have an operating Shay locomotive as well as a few diesels. http://georgetownlooprr.com/
First the good news... I received my test prints of the Lionel double door shims today, and evidently not only are the two ends different designs, but the bolsters are different distances from the end sills; only about the width of two human hairs, but enough to make me do some work... So, one end has a nice 0.300" hole in the frame that I can use as a locator pin for the self alignment part, and that means only a single drill hole has to be put into the frame (center) and the rear hole in...
Mario, those look nice! You don't need to Dremel the coupler off, it should come off by first removing the C-clip on top that secures the coupler; next, flip,the truck over, and take needle nose pliers to the bottom plate which is part of the coupler. Pull outwards, twisting as you go and this plate comes off. Turn the truck back over, the coupler arm comes right off. Hope this helps.
Hi Mario, Here is a dumb A** question. Most of the rolling stock I have was given to me, How do I tell what kind of car they are so I know what type of shims to get. Everything I have has been converted to Kadee with home made shims. It sure would be nice to go back and redo them so they would look and function better.
Mike, The might be an easier way than you think... Somewhere on Lionel car, especially the scale cars, there is a "Built by" stamp. This number is the product number, and all you have to do is put a "6-" in front of it and Google search for the details on the car. For example, look at the caboose below. The 17647 is the product number, and you would search for "6-17647". https://www.google.com/search?q=6-17647 ...and its the first one on the list! Good luck! Thanks, Mario
Although Mario's custom made shims are VERY nice, in my opinion I would not bother to go back and changeout any/all the "home made" shims. I have upgraded more than 100 pieces of freight rolling stock for myself, and friends, using .500" wide Evergreen styrene shims in all sorts of various thicknesses. Once the whole Kadee and shim assembly are painted to match the car underframe, and then the car is weathered, the old "three foot rule" comes into play, i.e. nobody can see them. Operation is...
I agree! I missed that part about everything you have already being converted. Lucky dog. The only reason I can think of to swap out an existing mount is if you gain something by doing it. For example, a new mount would decrease the space between cars, like on the PS-1 boxcars, if the Kadee box wasn't flush with the end sill. Or another example would be the upcoming flat cars, where the mount would also incorporate part of the end sill to fill the opening. Thanks! Mario PS - Hot Water,...
Mario, I really enjoy your design work and upon completing the move of my current layout will be converting my fleet to Kadee couplers using your conversion pads. I have two requests for you which I think will appeal to many of your customers. 1) Could you make some Kadee conversion pads for the for the Lionel Scale milk cars. I.e. The NYC ones that go with the century club Niagara. 2) When you have a finished design for any of you Kadee conversion pads; could you also make a version on...
John... good news on both fronts. The milk cars are on deck! I have a ship-load to do, but they will take a little more work than others because of the buffer plates. Better news... steel reefers ' new design is done and in in 10-packs! oh... and if you have those fab PS-1s, these are done too! thanks!
Scale City's website is the new website. We have been in the automotive business for 102 years and everything we do is a part of that business. We are not the only hobby supplier who is also in the automotive business.
Medium shank, car ends filled in. I cut the draft gear box sides off and file down the tab on the shank bottom to increase side swing and allow 072 operation. That's tight, though, but it works for me. Here's a short vehicle rain with some of these: RM
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