we make a high rail dummy coupler out of jeweler's pewter(no zinc rot) that should fix the problem that you and many others have ... check this out http://www.scalecitydesigns.co...-Walthers_p_267.html http://www.scalecitydesigns.co...-Walthers_p_267.html we also make a dummy scale sized coupler http://www.scalecitydesigns.co...eight-Car_p_255.html
Many years ago when I was in HO still, I decided to convert the entire fleet to Kadee couplers.......NOT CHEAP and that was when you got a pack of 4 for around $3!!! Just buying the hundreds and hundreds of Kadee O scale couplers would cost a fortune......but I can not imagine the WORK required to do all my freight cars....not counting passenger and I don't want to think Locos!!!!
Glue will not hold. If you have a dremel drill press you can take the truck off the car body. Place it in the drill press vice with a wood strip against the end of the knuckle of the coupler. Make sure the knuckle is closed. Next take a very small drill and drill down thru the coupler body and the closing portion of the knuckle. Place a cotter key in it. The coupler will not open again. bruce
I'm only looking for one car to fix one end. I rather have operating couplers but this is not going to be the case here so I can live with it. Train Nut I'm with you, I think super glueing every coupler shut is not for me.
Menards coupler problem: The problem was in the mechanism that latches the coupler closed. I slightly bent the tang that triggers the magnetic uncoupling so it had more free play and the problem was solved. Last year I bought a bunch of Menards cars and a few suffered this coupler problem. Menards also suggest SuperGlue. I thought that excessive so I took them apart to see what the problem was. The problem was in the mechanism that latches the coupler closed. I slightly bent the tang that...
I use a small tie wrap with one of my Menard's freight cars that won't keep the coupler shut. After I install the tie wrap I cut off the excess amount so the car can still run on the track. First used this with an MTH tank car that the coupler would not stay closed. For me it is cheaper then sending the car back to company that made it. Lee Fritz
If you convert all your cars to kaydees wich is what I plan to do some day. Just remove the nuckle that is rivited on. It is easaly removed. Then place the kaydee box and coupler there. One screw will hold it. Do a kaydee car conversion search on here. Some one I forget who posted how to have truck mounted kaydee couplers for us guys with small layouts and tighter curves. I am going to switch all my rolling stock over as the kaydees make switcing cars more fun and realistic. Plus you dont...
Go to a flea market dollar up store or maybe your local hardware and buy a box of assorted O rings. The small ones work great. Just carefully slip it over the coupler down to the shaft and your all set. A pair of small spreaders work to stretch it over the coupler. Also the electromagnetic uncoupler will still open the coupler. I believe Harbor Freight also has them.
As noted above, I took the simple route, and used the super glue which worked like a charm. I was going to try Wild Mary's suggestion to use "Coupler Binders" (three posts above), but my exhaustive search of the Menard's website failed to turn up the necessary parts. Hopefully, one day, I'll get more ambitious and use GUNRUNNERJOHN's excellent fix. Unfortunately, the Menard's couplers do not appear to be repairable with tape or rubber bands -- much better than my old standby for other...
I have try saying this at least three times but someone keeps coming back suggesting it. So my only guess they don't have any Menards cars so they don't know what they are talking about. At least you like I know it won't work with rubber bands/twist ties/ or other items similar.
The F59PHi has an odd pilot. If you imagine it without the snowplow, you'll see a flat pilot a few feet short of the end of the locomotive. The MP36's that Metrolink and some others use has a similar pilot (and it looks weird without a snowplow). The pictures below should give you a hint of how to shape the spacer. I'd use 1/8" styrene and "round it" to the contours. Then add side fill to the front of the pilot, leaving space for the snowplow. The other alternative would be to abandon the...
I just finished installing a scale coupler and fix pilot on my Atlas O Erie Built. Yesterday I put on the included pilot as it came with the cover over the coupler hole, but I realized it stuck out way too far, and we run them in freight service so it shouldn't be on there anyway. Today my dad ran up to the hobby store and got a pack of Kadees to put on it. I removed the screw that holds the cover onto the pilot. I then built up the mounting pad with three sheets of styrene, not sure how...
Thanks! Right now I'm leaning toward starting from scratch, especially since it won't need to be structural since I wouldn't ever have anything on the front end of the locomotive. As you stated, the rear pilot is more straightforward, although the MTH one looks a tad small. Neat to see the mixed consist at the end! Do you happen to have a higher resolution version of that photo?
I'm planning on fixing the pilot of my Lionel SD70M (not sure if I want lobster claw or Kadee) and I was wondering if anyone on here has done one of these before and has any tips. Also need a good fuel tank for it.
After two weeks of trying to catch an F59PHi for a good pilot shot (Metrolink doesn't have that many and they're scattered all over the place) I caught one yesterday at Irvine as I was about to leave. Here's a side shot of the pilot. It looks like you just have to round off the bottom of the spacer and you'll be fine.
Having searched using all the variations of the above that I could imagine and having come up empty, I appeal to the membership for advice. I am addicted to E6 locomotives and have several that I'd like to convert but want to get it right the first time. Who among us has tackled this project and can offer advice?
Everything I have bought has worked out of the box. The only thing I had trouble with was a crank pin that came loose on my RailKing Imperial USRA 0-6-0 after running it a short time and I had a hard time getting the wheels re-quartered. All other problems were caused by "pilot error". I took my NW2 apart once and ended up with an intermittent short, found a single strand of wire touching ground (had to use a magnifier to find it).
I have an MTH Premier F59PHi that I want to give the 3RS treatment, but the pilots on this model look to be a little challenging. They are not the same shape as the body, and really not 100% to the prototype. Should I just ditch them and try to scratch build new ones or is there an easier way? Also any tips on 3RS-ing those K Line commuter cars would be appreciated too! As a side note, the locomotive and cars will be repainted so the mixed paint schemes and incorrect frame color isn't an issue.
Having an issue with one of my turnouts. All was working according to Hoyle until this afternoon. Now when I throw the controller lever one way it works. The opposite way the points shutter. Checked the insulating pins, and also checked for bits of wire that may have fallen on the insulating pins gaps. The turnout in question is wired for fixed voltage. The shunt blade is moved so as not to make contact with the fixed voltage binding post.
I'm repairing a 2671W. The whistle relay seems to stick or chatter and not engage well. I've tried to test it externally and it latches with DC voltage applied. I'm trying to figure out where the problem is and could use some help. I'm discounting my transformer, either. Any tips and trick would be greatly appreciated.
I have a pair of 022 switches in my layout. I am using both with the fixed voltage plugs and have connected them to the 14V fixed output of the transformer (posts B and F on an old model K style unit). Both switches have the 1447 screw-in type bulb. The problem is that one of the switches does not completely throw all the time. When I manually throw the switch with the lantern head, I don't notice any binding - it seems to move freely. I've seen posts here and on other forums that suggest...
I must be loosing it. Many years ago I ran a small layout with O22 switches and fixed voltage, but cannot recall the way I had it wired. I'm helping my grandson set up his layout and we are powering with a KW transformer. I have four O22 switch tracks with their fixed voltage plugs connected. The track power is terminal A to the outside rails, terminal U to the center rail. Which terminal should I use to supply fixed voltage to the switch tracks ?
I have 4 loops of track powered by 2 z4000. One loop on each handle. One look per tiu channel. Today I noticed track two is applying power to track 3 and 4 when activated even though handles 3 and 4 are off. I think tiu is cause. Any thoughts?
Hello all, After over a year of saving money, and going through about half-a-dozen different choices, I finally have a Legacy Steam Locomotive, the brand new Lionel Legacy Western Allegheny H10 2-8-0. Perfect engine, except for one cosmetic anomaly - the bright silver smokebox. My question is, what is the best, easiest, and quickest way to darken down the smokebox color? Thanks in advance.
If I understand how a fixed input on a TIU works you get the same voltage out that goes in. If you connected a transformer, say a Z4000, to the fixed inputs and used the transformer throttles to vary the voltage couldn't the fixed inputs be used as variable? If this is possible could the horn / whistle button on the transformer activate those features on a conventional locomotive? I'm in the planning stages of a layout. I do not have the system yet but I will be wiring the layout for DCS.
All of a sudden seems odd, but it just about has to be the anti-derailing rail that is shorted to the outside rail. I see you checked the insulating pins. I guess I would take it apart and trace how it could be. First check the continuity between the rail and the outside rail and confirm that it shorted together somehow. I looked it up in parts to see if I could get some idea of how it's made inside, etc. but the switch did not come up. I'll try something besides the part number.
Disconnect the controller and test the turnout operation by jumpering the controller terminals with a piece of wire to eliminate controller failure or perhaps a spare controller. The fiber pins for non-derail should be on the inside rails on the turnout and the thru on the against the points side. Has voltage dropped for any reason at the turnout? The coils need about 14v. Not enough voltage could make it hang or chatter.
I disconnected the controller and opened it up. All seems to be in order inside, i.e., not bare wires touching anything they shouldn't. I then touched the appropriate binding posts with a piece of wire and got the same chattering. As much as I hate to remove the turnout, it's going to have to be done. It has to be something inside that can only be accessed to from below, ugh ! I dismantled the RH switch as it's not mounted to the table yet. It's very simple inside, but I can see where it...
OK, all is lost. I dismantled the switch track today. Checked everything that looked like it could go wrong. Found nothing. Re-assembled it all and no luck. Since the turnout is at the front of the layout, I have decided to manually operate it. It's just not worth any more time fiddling with it.
Dan, It would have helped if you posted a photo. The obvious cause of the chatter is the placement of the fiber or insulating pins is incorrect. next, I found in an excerpt of a repair manual for the older style, mention of the sliding pieces internally grounding and causing chatter. frustrated as you may be, there is a repair. I don't run these, so I can't guess which one that you have. They are simple and can be made to work.
Thanks Pete. I have all of the paperwork already. I'm convinced, as others have said on these forums, that the design leaves alot to be desired. The motor inside is minuscule. Carl, the link you have there is for an O22 Lionel switch track. The switch track I have is an O42 new design that is nothing like the O22 mechanically. Now if Lionel were to produce the O42 made the same way as the old O22, I'd buy one in a New York minute.
Dan, I hate to be negative about the Lionel switch but if you want one that works with remote control and won't just up & quit then go with Gargraves or Ross switches. I had 5 Lionel # 6-23010 switches go bad on me during the mid 90's. It's not the insulating pins! I had extreme problems with the newer Lionel switches in O gauge tubular and had to go with Gargraves about 7 years ago. Lee Fritz
Those are 042 O gauge switches from 2007 to 2012. Best bet is to replace the switch motors with DZ-1000 or DZ-2500 from DZ Industries. Ross has those for sale on their website. Better yet just replace the whole switch! Lee Fritz
I sold 4 of those switches off real cheap. I don't know how to repair them as they use newer electronics. I was having some really severe problems with the switches, one problem was flickering power-it looked like a flashing light bulb was added in series with the power to the switch, another problem was being used with Williams engines-the switch went bonkers (threw the switch piece at about 50 times a second)when "any Williams engine" approached it(no other brand did this). I called Lionel...
I'm hip. I knew that from a previous thread about this switch. I put the OWNER'S MANUAL LINK up so Moonman Carl could see that you're not dealing with an O-22 type switch. I have a NIB RH version purchased some time ago from Model Train Stuff at a ridiculously low price. I got it with a "future" project in mind. Guess I better fire it up, see if it works. Pete
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