I have a 2-8-8-4 Premiere Yellowstone Steam engine with ProtoSound, MTH catalog #20-3030-1 and has a BCR install in it. It was featured in the 1999 Vol.1 MTH catalog. I was running it in conventional mode with my Z-4000 Transformer. The engine worked perfectly until I stopped it, and throttled the transformer back to "O" volts. The engine now had no power to it. While checking a piece of track in front of my transformer I accidentally throttled the transformer...
Gregg, as I thought, the sound for the Doodlebug cuts off instantaneously when I shut down the power. In addition, when the "direction" button is depressed, that also kills the sound, and it begins again with the engine start-up sounds -- just as if I had turned the power off, then turned it on again. As for the SW-1, twiddled the volume screw up and down several more times, and repeated the reset to defaults sequence -- still no sound.
Luke, thanks for the suggestion re GGG and Gunrunner John. As for the doodlebug -- one in the same apparent condition (everything else working, but stuck in neutral) sold on eBay a month ago for $40 plus $15 to ship. I'd want to get the same -- unless someone on here comes up with a miracle cure to restore it to running condition, of course. :-)
I would do a conventional reset as GGG mentioned 1 W 5B in rapid succession and if works you will get 2 whistle toots, if you do not hear 2 whistle toots it did not RESET!! it must be dine in 1/2 second intervals you may have to practice to get it right but should work ok! Good luck Alan
GGG, thanks for your response. As indicated they're both PS-2. The SW-1 has the 3V, and is item #30-2742-1. The doodlebug has the 9V, and is #30-2190-1. Each has the appropriate version of the BCR installed. Alas, I'm all too familiar with the "reset to defaults" sequence. Neither unit seems very impressed when I apply it, although the doodlebug does give me the two toots that says it heard me. Gives me the two toots, but doesn't seem to give two hoots, in other words....
Alan, thanks for your response. As you may now have seen in my response to GGG, have (now and previously) tried the reset with both units. The doodlebug does get the message -- it gives the two whistle toots -- but keeps on sitting there in neutral anyway. Same when I try lock/unlock direction sequence. As for the SW-1, I can only assume I'm sending the reset correctly there too, since it doesn't give me any auditory feedback. The sound stays off. Probably saying this brands me as old and...
The reset is not going to work with a dead battery. You may want to find out why the sounds don't continue on after track power is shut off.... Corroded connector , weak battery. broken wire on battery leads. etc. Heck try an alkaline 9 volt just for testing only . don't leave it installed.
Gregg, as I mentioned, I replaced the battery with a BCR. I'm assuming (since it's brand new) that it's behaving as it's supposed to, and the doodlebug does give me the two-toot signal after I perform the reset. However, I will definitely try the 9V just in case. It'll have to be tomorrow, though -- time to get ready for work right now. Thanks again!
I would suggest you take a ohm meter vom and check each wire from the battery connector to where it solders on the board, I have had one engine that had exactly that problem and I had a 2.9 ohm resistance from the 9 volt connector to the board and that was just enough that the sounds cut off immediately!! check both red and black wires one at a time and I think you will find your problem!! sometimes inside the nine volt connector comes loose but the insulation looks like the wire is still...
Yes. calling MTH should work out well. I had a door missing on one of their diesels and was told by the worker that there were no spare doors available. Then I asked to talk to Mike. They found a door for me and shipped it out. So calling can work.
Model numbers help, Are these PS-1 or PS-2. If you look at your manual there are instructions for a conventional reset. For PS-2, one Whistle and 5 Bells in rapid succession. Other issue can be a bad speaker, especially for PS-2 5V. Other issue can be corroded terminal for battery, based on old battery left in too long and gassing out. So both can be simple fixes. G
Alan, Gregg, GGG, unfortunately I was at work all day today. But Monday morning I hope to have time to put in the 9V battery and see what that tells us. (A 9V battery I have, a volt ohm meter, not so much, Alan! If it gets down to figuring out which wire is the problem, would a $7 cheapo multimeter from Home Depot do the job? Or what would you recommend, on the definitely economical side? -- But if the next step is that I'm supposed to stick a soldering iron anywhere near the circuitry in my...
Jeff, he doesn't have a train shop but is very well known, a pioneer in DCS, and does do repairs. I don't know if he's looking for more business, so I don't want to mention his name but bI forwarded him a reference to your post. Are you near Dedham?
RJR, thanks for your response. I'm near enough -- I work in Braintree, just a couple of towns down the highway. Thanks for the referral, I appreciate your help, and understand your discretion in not wanting to commit him. Thanks!
Jeff, I will give them a look if you want. My house is 24 miles from you. I do the MTH and Lionel Charlie Ro. I am caught up a bit if I can help. George and John can do it if you want to ship it. They are both great. I am down the road.
Jeff I buy harbor freight vom's you can buy them cheap and they are good enough for testing and have ohms, volts, amps and ac or dc ranges great meters any where from $3.00 to ten bucks can beat the price! Alan PS vom stands for volt ohm meter ! Marty is a great guy and can get you fixed up and done right! Alan
Marty, thank you! That would be a great help, and probably much more efficient (and safe) than having me muck around inside the locos. How shall I get them to you, and when would be convenient? My work schedule is kind of irregular -- this week I'm booked Monday afternoon and evening, Tuesday a.m., Wednesday afternoon, Thursday 10 to 3 or so, Saturday evening. Friday's free from 10 a.m. onwards. My email has been added to my profile if you want to reach me that way. Thank you for your...
Thanks to everyone for all of your replies. It's good to know there are knowledgeable people willing and able to help with both with advice and with hands-on service. I'm glad Marty is close by, but will definitely keep GGG and Gunrunner John in mind for the future, too. Appreciate your help. Glad I joined the Forum, and look forward to participating in the future. Jeff
Did you check the battery plug and wires for corrosion and break? Not playing shutdown sounds is an issue and the engine will not work in conventional. Either BCR can't charge or wires not connected due to above. Using alkaline battery eliminates charging circuit to help refine issue. G
You should be able to get both running even if Conventional is your only option. Lets address #2 first... I know you replaced the batteries on this one with a BCR however .. how long do the sounds continue on after track power is turned completely off. Should be approx. 6 or 7 seconds. THe SW Try turning the vol pot up and down a few times. . Yes a dcs remote might help however keep trying with the conventional reset b/w combination.
Gregg, thanks for the encouraging response. I'll tinker with both in the morning and report back. I'm pretty sure the sounds on the doodlebug just quit immediately when the power is cut, but I'll double check. I know how it should work -- my GP-7 does the shutting-down sounds for, as you said, six or seven more seconds. (Somehow I haven't confused that loco yet.)
I would get in touch with GGG or Gunrunner JOhn here on the forum, I think your B&M is repairable, but they are the guys who can do it. It might be a bad speaker, or volume pot, but it is likely the amplifier on the board for the sounds. What is your bottom line on the doodlebug?
If anyone's keeping score -- took both units up to Marty's today. The SW-1 turned out to need a new speaker, and is now A-OK. The doodlebug's board has gone bad -- oh well, nothing lasts forever. Thank you, Marty, for your time, expertise, and kindness.
Luke, if for any reason you can use a doodlebug with a bad board and missing battery, you have first dibs, for the cost of shipping. Otherwise I'll put it up on eBay for a few bucks on Wednesday night. Let me know? Thanks.
A BCR also saved my MTH Premier Reading GP30. J and W Electronics also installed a circuit board from a MTH 1997 RailKing Southern Ps-4 in MTH Premier Southern Ps-4 1401 (20-3006-1; 1994) that I had purchased from a Forumite - a happy conclusion to years of hunting. I gained Passenger Station Announcements (PSA). She runs like a Hamilton watch.
I have acquired a Williams Scale GG1 recently, used. I opened it up to replace the lamps and noticed that there is a Lionel circuit board inside. The previous owner installed it as I don't believe it was there when the loco was new. There is a 9 volt battery connector but no battery. The sound operates well. It has the usual sounds of a GG1 plus horn and bell. So why is the system operating without a battery. Should I put one in ? Should I put in a BCR ?
I haven't bought any BCR's in a long time. Think it might have been Marty from Ma and Pa Junction. So, yes, it was that long ago. Google search brings up nothing other than J&W. I'm on a fairly tight budget and need a few. Which dealer has the best prices on the original BCR's these days? Thanks, Fred
Thank you J and W Electronics! You saved my ailing MTH Dreyfus Hudson. This new - old stock engine was running well lets just say crappy. I put in the the magic BCR and abra cadabra, happy engine. Happy engine makes for happy engineer. You get the idea. Anyway thanks for fixing this issue!
I am replacing all the batteries in my MTH locos with BCR replacements. I opened my RK-1113L PS1 Dryfuss Hudson (purchased second hand) but there is no 9V battery that I can see (or any battery at all). There are two boards stacked in the tender and one has an almost battery sized black box but it soldered to the board and does not look like a battery. The black box has a sticker on it that says QSI Patent No.'S 4,914, 431,5, 184, 078 & Patents pending. Anyone know where my battery is? I...
I grew up with 1960s HO, where as long as it went forward and reverse and didn't derail, you were good. "High tech" meant Kadee couplers. So maybe I'm just too much of a knucklehead for recent O gauge technology, where the loco does 47 different things -- until it doesn't. But maybe I can get some help here.... I have two MTH PS-2 locos that, following long storage, dead batteries, and replacement of batteries with the appropriate J and W "BCR" capacitors, have the following issues: 1. My...
Thanks John. The board is held in place with double sided foam tape by the previous owner. For the moment I have installed an LED in one of the headlights, wired directly to track power. I'll put your information on my "To do" list for the future. Since I intend to use a catenary system, I would like to know if stronger springs can be had for the pantographs ? The springs on my MPC electric locos are more robust that the springs on this locomotive.
It's very easy to install the LED powered from the board when you decide to do that. Just remember, ground is positive for the lighting outputs when running in command mode. I'd probably just find some compatible springs from a place like McMaster Carr , I doubt Williams has optional springs.
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