Tagged With "Plastic"

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Best Glues

Geo2000 ·
Hi, I am a newbie to modeling and wanted to know the best glue products to use for building both wool kit structures and plastic structures. Also any other tools I should get beyond paints brushes and xacto. Thanks in advance!
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AF #302 Up Graded Engine Shell

CUSTOM "O" DECALS ·
"S" #302 Plastic Engine Shell W/LED's Being offered at auction now: http://lbrenterprisesllc.homestead.com/Bid-Sales.html?_=1410703029914 Time: 11:30 AM (EST) Date: 12-08-2015 Item To Being Auctioned: #302 Plastic Engine Shell (EX) with LED head light & LED green marker lights LBRSRP: $45.00 - $75.00 USD Opening Bid: $25.00 USD Dave, LBR
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Bridge Construction Materials

lehighline ·
I'm toying with the idea of building a tall, spindly trestle on my layout. For inspiration, I turned to the Kinzua Trestle in Western PA. The trestle was destroyed several years ago by a tornado, IIRC. A little research shows that there were 2 trestles built at the location. See the attached picture for the earlier one, which is what I want to use as a guide. My question is, what to use for constructing it? Plastic would definitely give me the shapes for the individual...
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How do I paint delrin plastic?

Steven Michael ·
Okay, so I was visiting a local O scale two rail layout, and the owner had two Weaver GP38-2s running. He had detailed them very nicely, and they looked nothing like the basic models they came as. Many years ago my dad purchased three of these engines decorated in Conrail, and I too plan on detailing mine. In order to get started on this, the handrails need to be repainted to blue rather than their current black. These handrails are made out of delrin plastic, so if I paint them with Floquil...
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Re: Bridge Construction Materials

AGHRMatt ·
Took some photos Saturday. Also, I checked with Dave O'Connor and they used 1/4 steel square stock as opposed to angle iron. The build would still be pretty much the same. Here are the close-up photos.
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Re: Bridge Construction Materials

AGHRMatt ·
Whoa! That's a big one...and very nice to boot. As a bridge troll, I think that would definitely make a nice build. What I'd recommend is that you build the "vertical" parts of the bents from small steel angle iron attached to square wooden bases (hidden under dirt and deck), then detail the cross members with Plastruct products. The deck itself can be wood, painted steel gray and detailed with more Plastruct. We did something similar with our curved modern trestle in the background. The...
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Re: Bridge Construction Materials

wsdimenna ·
think you may be able to find what you need here www.hunterline.com
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Re: Bridge Construction Materials

lehighline ·
WSDIMENNA, I'm familiar with the Hunterline product selection. Great stuff! In fact, I have one of their Howe Through Truss bridges. But they are wood, and not the look I want. Matt, I like what your club did! That may be the way to go. Do you have some close up shots of the piers? Also, if you have any shots of the piers under construction, that would be excellent. BTW, no plans make it as long as the original. If I did, it would poke along way out both sides of the train room! Chris LVHR
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Re: Bridge Construction Materials

AGHRMatt ·
Thanks. I don't have any close-up photos handy, so I'll take some close-up shots of the bents and the bridge Saturday when I'm down at the club. I took another look at the prototype and it would definitely lend itself to the angle-iron/plastruct construction. The trick with the bents will be the tops under the deck. What it looks like you'll be doing is using 1/4" stock for the track support while using 3/4" for the tops of the bents, plus some inserts in-between to keep them plumb and make...
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plastic drive wheels?

Jim O'C ·
Found this cast iron clockwork loco with plastic wheels. Can anyone identify the motor? The bottom of the mechanism is mostly closed. broken cowcatcher should be easy enough to fix. Looks like a single band no. 17 Ives possibly? Anyone ever hear of plastic replacement wheels for zinc-pest infested locos?
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Re: Best Glues

NickBonugli ·
I only use Zap a CA+ glue..it comes in various consistencies...depending on what you are gluing. I tend to use more of the thicker one mostly..plus an accelerator. It makes quick/sturdy work of assembly. Just be carfeul not to glue your hand together. Nick B
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Re: Best Glues

Trainman2001 ·
Keep some acetone handy. It dissolves CA and can break the bond between fingers. If you buy Debonder you're just buying acetone. Old fashioned nail polish remover also works if it's basically acetone. Debonder comes in a spray bottle. I just keep refilling my original bottle with acetone as it runs out. I tend not to glue my fingers together, but I do occasionally get CA on my fingers. A couple of rubs with a rag with some acetone removes the glue.
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Re: Best Glues

mwb ·
Only if it's still sealed in the bottle. Once it's open putting it into the freezer is one of the worse things you can do - every time you take it out after that while it's cold it's condensing water into it and water is a catalyst that will trigger its polymerization into a solid. That's why it gets progressively thicker over time. Once open. Store it in a desiccator preferably using calcium sulfate with cobalt indicator in it. You can keep it in there after opening for years, only taking...
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Re: Best Glues

Geo2000 ·
thanks Nick
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Re: Best Glues

Geo2000 ·
woo, sounds like I should have paid more attention in chemistry class
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Re: Best Glues

rex desilets ·
"calcium sulfate with cobalt indicator" Is there a commercial source for this elixir? My go-to for wood-to-wood is yellow carpenters glue followed by a dab of ACC. Not as universal as mwb's Goo + ACC, but less messy to apply than Goo.
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Re: Best Glues

mwb ·
Yes, it's commercial name is Drierite - pop it into a search on eBay..... A steady, gentle and patient hand to use Goo most successfully one has to develop, Leafhopper.
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Re: Best Glues

Former Member ·
As far as tools go.Don't buy cheap.Get a good set of large and small Wiha and/or Felo precision screw drivers and nut drivers.These are made in Germany and will last you a long,long time. Get a set of Xuron precision cutters and pliers. A good set of small files and tweezers are a must too. Micro Mark is a good source.
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Re: Best Glues

Geo2000 ·
Thanks so much!!!
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Re: Best Glues

Norton ·
I had not heard of the touch and go but use a similar technique. Fine tip tweezers used like a drawing pen. Dip into the liquid, Tenax, Plastruct, etc, close the tweezers then open them where you want to apply it. It alows micro drops to be applied precisely at the spot like HO grab holes. Pete
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Re: Best Glues

Geo2000 ·
Herman, THANKS SO MUCH!!! This is great info and I will go to Micromart for sure.
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Re: Best Glues

mwb ·
1st - don't build any wool kits, Ok, wood - you can use just about any Carpenter's glue, however, you have to be a little cautious about warping from the moisture in that glue, and it's also not very strong in joints that are comprise of end grain. You can also use CA and a host of other glues for wood to wood. Plastic - depends on the type of plastic. Styrene - see above. I use Tenax to "weld" it together. ABS - now you are using MEK to weld it together. Other polymer plastics can get very...
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Re: Best Glues

Trainman2001 ·
All good. Regarding Goo. I find that contact cements lose their grip over time. I have a model ship that I painstakingly applied individual copper tiles on the bottom. Almost all of those tiles have now detached themselves over the 40 that the model has existed. All glues have their pluses and minuses. For styrene, I also use Tenax or Plastruct's Bounden, but I apply it will a Touch-n-Flow applicator. This is a piece of small O.D. glass tubing with a piece of capillary tubing in the end. It...
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Re: Best Glues

Jerrman ·
For wood structures you can use any wood glue. They dry strong but they are yellow so more difficult to hide mistakes or paint. I use Aileen's Tacky Glue, water clean-up, available everywhere, bonds quickly (at least for handling until it cures) and is less watery than Elmer's. Plus it dries clear. For styrene, there are specific adhesives (available at hobby shops, craft stores, online at, for example, Micro-mark) that don't really glue the edges but rather melts them so you get a really...
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Re: Best Glues

NJCJOE ·
Use this as a guide. http://www.thistothat.com/
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Re: How do I paint delrin plastic?

breezinup ·
You're heading the wrong direction. You should consider moving from N to O later in life. You know, as your vision goes.
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Re: How do I paint delrin plastic?

Ace ·
If you do a less than perfect job, or if it flakes off, you will be disappointed with the results. If you want to try painting Delrin, suggest you practice on an item of lesser value first.
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Re: How do I paint delrin plastic?

Steven Michael ·
No lol. I am sick of training wheels and lobster claws!
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Re: How do I paint delrin plastic?

mwb ·
No one said to do all 4 engines at once; don't go and cheap out on stuff - do it right. One the 1st things I did when I got my 1st Weaver RS3 was to replace the handrails and all of the other flimsy parts - stuff you handle inadvertently slowly gets damaged over time. Having it more robust insures a long time better quality model for your enjoyment. Then again, if you are just going to go to N later, maybe you should just sell off the O now and move on... And, you etter start saving for that...
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Re: How do I paint delrin plastic?

Steven Michael ·
Clem - I sent you an email regarding this.
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Re: plastic drive wheels?

WindupGuy ·
I have an Ives with that same basic late motor, but with stamped wheels instead of the die-cast. The body appears to be a 5th series No. 1, but has that very late motor in it. Interesting to say the least. It appears to me that this motor has both Ives and AF characteristics at this point. It never ceases to amaze and confuse me why companies like Ives and AF had such a plethora of body styles with minute differences in their cast iron locomotives. I would think that they would have made a...
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Re: plastic drive wheels?

Jim O'C ·
I think you are correct about it being a #176 from 1930. Everything seems to match up except the nylon wheels. Someone must have manufactured them for this purpose as the rear drive wheels have brass bushings and the drive rods are mounted to a raised nylon ferrule. The pin on the drive rod does not go all the way through the wheel. The chassis also has the third rail slider as you can see in the one picture.
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Re: How do I paint delrin plastic?

JohnGaltLine ·
When it comes to painting any sort of plastic that you don't know the adhesion properties of, or where you can not properly prep the surface, what you want is an adhesion promoter. I prefer the sort that is applied separately from primer and dries clear, not the all in one sort. I have never used the low cost options such as Dupli-Color, so I don't know how they compare to SEM or 3M's product, but I expect it is good enough for the job. The name brands cost around $25 for a spray can, but...
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Re: How do I paint delrin plastic?

mwb ·
There is a flexible parts primer - NAPA # 7223 - supposed to be good for Delrin or any other acetal plastic. Then again, a Weaver engine - I'd just replace all of the handrails with brass parts from P&D Hobby and get away from the Delrin by using nicer parts from the the start.
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Re: How do I paint delrin plastic?

Steven Michael ·
When I was searching for detail parts I noticed that Des Plaines Hobbies stocks handrails specifically made for Weaver GP38s, $34.95 a piece X four engines = $139.80!!! Money I'd rather spend on N scale stuff considering that I plan on getting away from O scale later in life. How does the P&D Hobby product go in terms of price? But in any case, thanks for the product number, I'll do a search for that.
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Re: How do I paint delrin plastic?

clem k ·
Hello Steven I have two sets of GP-38 window kits from P&D. If you could use them there yours for the price of postage. Clem k
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Re: How do I paint delrin plastic?

rattler21 ·
Strip the piece, wash it with dish washing soap, thoroughly rinse, dry it over night, apply a good prime coat, make sure your paint is the proper temperature and apply it. John
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Re: How do I paint delrin plastic?

Hot Water ·
I was thinking of RustOleum Automotive Primer (spray cans), which should "bite" into the handrails.
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Re: How do I paint delrin plastic?

LucasWSU ·
Try paint intended for R/C car bodies which bonds to Lexan. That might work
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Re: plastic drive wheels?

WindupGuy ·
Very late Ives... I'm guessing a No. 17 / 176, circa 1930. I hope someone more well versed in Ives can confirm that. I've seen a lot of different homebrew replacement wheels, but the plastic (Teflon or Nylon, perhaps?) is new to me. I even had one with old metal bottle caps for wheels! That must have torn up the hardwood floors...
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FOR SALE Lionel O gauge plastic side trucks removed from Lionel cars.

pro hobby ·
FOR SALE Lionel O gauge plastic side trucks removed from Lionel cars. These are Lionel plastic trucks (not sprung) but have metal wheels and axles. Two types are shown. See photos. 3 pair available of each style $10 per pair plus shipping via USPS First Class Style 1: Free rolling types shown. Style 2: Rollerbearing types shown.
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Safe Glue For Use On Postwar Plastics

Zach K ·
I had a small accident today and chipped the end of the catwalk on my 3530 generator car. It was a clean break and I have the piece ready to glue back on. What glues are "safe" for these plastics, by safe I mean what won't melt or discolor the plastic?
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Re: Safe Glue For Use On Postwar Plastics

bmoran4 ·
I have used this successfully. Just be sure to try out the applicator on some practice items first.
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Re: Safe Glue For Use On Postwar Plastics

Joe Fauty ·
Zach: BOM is correct - CA is probably the best way to go. I would recommend using a gel not liquid and if possible mate the parts and glue from the back. Joe
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Re: Safe Glue For Use On Postwar Plastics

Zach K ·
Thanks for the recommendations BMORAN4 and Joe! I'll be sure to pick up a bottle of the Loctite at the store tomorrow!
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Re: Safe Glue For Use On Postwar Plastics

Zach K ·
Here are the results C W. I used the Loctite glue BMORAN4 recommended. It almost impossible to tell where the break was unless you look very closely. The glue went on well with no adverse reaction. However if you knock the glued piece the wrong way it will separate, I think its because the break was so clean and smooth so the glue has no place to bond. If I find a replacement shell in good condition I may just replace this one but for now the glue has done a satisfactory job.
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Re: Safe Glue For Use On Postwar Plastics

C W Burfle ·
How did you make out with your project? I have not had good success using CA glue on plastic Lionel parts. The last thing I tried to glue with CA glue was a step on a postwar flatcar. The glue did not bond. One time I tried using CA glue on a postwar plastic truck (different type of plastic than the flat). The glue reacted with the truck, and it literally fell apart. Just yesterday I glued a broken postwar plastic coupler back together. It was cast from a white plastic and painted black. I...
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Re: Safe Glue For Use On Postwar Plastics

D500 ·
I hardly ever interact with PW Lionel (or other) equipment, but it seems like I glued something back together - and old banged-up PW shell or something that I was using in a low-end project - using Testors plastic cement. Just your standard, styrene-and-styrene-like plastic glue (actually a solvent, which is why it works so well). If PW plastic is related to styrene, this is your stuff. But, my memory is not clear on the repair. "Restorers" may want to go another way.
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Re: Safe Glue For Use On Postwar Plastics

Jim 1939 ·
I think you made the right choice. Super glue seems to work the best on PW plastic. Epoxy would be another. Without the correct solvent, industrial plastics are difficult to glue.
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FS: G scale Bachmann cars UPDATED!

Paul Moore ·
For sale are six G scale cars. Paypal Friends and Family or MO. Take all for $90 + shipping! That's $15 per car! Hook and Link couplers: 1. Rath Packing Co. Boxcar. Plastic wheels, $20 2. Rath Packing Co. Boxcar. Metal wheels, $20 3. Hershey's Reefer, Plastic wheels, $25 4. B&O Flatcar w/ stakes and logs, missing 1 stake, $20 5. SF Combine, no interior or lights. $20 Knuckle couplers: 6. UP Coach, has interior and lights, $25
OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
330-757-3020

www.ogaugerr.com
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