wft trains , Bill ,I just stumbled across these posts, Christmas of 46 Lionel did put out a few 403's with left over stock that had post war knuckle couplers and tenders with post war trucks , I have 1 and it is not a Madison Hardware update. There are a lot of folks say the same thing about a never was , until you see , or have one. Mike
No, there was never a Lionel post-war 0-6-0 steam switcher CATALOGED nor was there ever a Lionel post-war or pre-war locomotive numbered 656. The number 656 was used on a pre-war O gauge cattle car made from 1935 though 1940 although Lionel occasionally reused a pre-war number on a completely different post-war item. There was a #403 steam switcher shown in the 1946 catalog but this engine was never made. In the image in the catalog (probably an artist's drawing and not a photograph) it is...
Ok that's they I figured they never made one. The only 060 Lionel ever made that I was able to find pictures of was the 300 series pre war locomotives. Thanks for the info. I'll look at the forum archives. Any idea on the exact date of that poster?
Update on the posters: I forgot that the posters were listed in the 1990 Greenberg Guide to Lionel Paper book by Osterhoff. Both versions are listed on page 53 if you have that book. No photos, just descriptions and both versions are listed as 1947. Also they are not identified as DEALER posters as I had said earlier. If you don’t have the book the description for the first version says “16½” wide x 10½” high, wall poster, printed on one side in yellow, black, and red ink on white paper,...
That is where someone adapted a 6 wheel motor, and shoehorned it into a 1656 body. Definitely a nice job, and the countersink screw hole is the telltale sign of the modification. Makes for a nice 0-6-0 switcher, to say the least.
Thanks for the insights. Actually my friend that has this set, decided to open up the engine. He found out that it appeared to be opened up before (?), but regardless he found that the plunger was stuck, and took care of that sticky problem, and the engine is now smoking great! He was very happy!
If you have an Ohm meter, and know how to use it, you could open the engine up and place the meter across the smoke element. It should read about 18 ohms if it is good..If I recall correctly. You could also look to make sure the plug for the smoke is fully seated in the board, and that no wires are broken. On the smoke one wire, probably red, will run from the plug to the smoke unit. the other, probably blue will run from the plug to the smoke switch, then from the switch to the smoke unit.
Also, once the smoke feature is activated, it may take up to 2 minutes to get the smoke running. My first engine wouldn't smoke when I turned the smoke on. After a few days, I left the smoke on by accident and went to make a sandwich. When I came back, it was smoking! I guess it takes a couple of minutes to warm up the heating element.
Blow on it? I thought that was for Nintendo game cartridges? Lol Backing off on fluid a bit might help too. Total saturation can cool an element quite a bit. If its a cooler element to start with, that means a longer warm up or even failure to smoke for a few days. I have three steamers that require either a fluid with a fast evaporation rate, or careful top offs to perform.
One other thing, I'm going to assume this is a LionChief set, as that is all I've seen in Menards. If so, are you testing with the engine moving on the track? LionChief engines automatically turn off the smoke unit when the engine is not moving. JGL
The same issue exists on my 1055 which has dual powered axles, no magne-traction and no traction tire, grooved wheels! Honestly, what were they thinking on these two engines? Had to be cost cutting!!!!! The 1055 was sold in rock bottom priced sets that weren't even cataloged. There are several other low end ALCO's that followed, also in low end sets. I guess they were the "scouts" of the diesel line. Better quality ALCO's were generally in the catalogs.
The reason I am very interested in improving my 1055 is that it has the tightest drive train I have ever seen on a Lionel diesel - Almost NO slop in the gears or the bearings. I intend to keep it that way, plus add some traction to it for a great little puller/pusher. OK, quiz time - what's the difference between these wheels? The two on the right are traction tire wheels, courtesy of two very generous lads on this forum - thank you again!! The one on the left is a plain wheel, straight out...
I need a helicopter for my post war car. The problem is that folks ask near as much as the price of an intact car half the time Repro helicopters were never cheap. I used to get together with a bunch of friends and place large orders directly with the manufacturer to get wholesale prices on them. It seems that the prices for reproduction flatcar loads have really gone up from those days. I guess its because sales have slowed down on them, so the runs are smaller, and the time to get them...
When this era TMCC diesel was manufactured, Lionel designed what I refer to as the "PITA" truck assembly. The motor actually screws into a mounting plate from the bottom; unfortunately, you have to remove that mount plate from above. I haven't done mine recently, but the screws that hold both pickup rollers will need to come out along with any other forgotten screws I'm over-looking from memory.... You'll see the mounting plate in question once you remove the shell and get some visual access.
Unfortunately the pick up roller screws look like they come down from the top.Looks like the motor mounting plate will not pass through the chassis.I cannot locate any screws for the motor mt. plate.Thanks for your help so fare.
If you visit the Lionel site here , you'll find all of the documents that you need. Pictorial diagram is the one. Look at the blue links at the bottom of the description. Save them to your computer and archive them. The screw locations are a bugger. Getting the shell off will be a little tricky. Be careful of the lighting connectors and such.
You need to remove screws 30&38 and it will come apart,make sure you don't lose the thrust bearing 14,also the axle bearings have a flat on them and have to be lined up properly. I have 6 of the NYC SD-80's and every one of them had loose motor screws. Doug
I'm only guessing but looks like transformer for the inexpensive sets 70's - 90's you didn't give a great pic of it. trying to determine if the black cord is a plug to plug into a outlet either way with the forward reverse switch it's for a DC train set of some type.
Just use the generic ALCO's information. It will be close. But Lionel made a lot of modifications to those ALCO's that aren't all well documented. If you need help, just ask here. The 2024 Alco is a one year only item, from 1969. Be aware that in the early 1970's MPC must have had a large quantity of left over shells because they had a blowout sale on them, along with a few others. So it is common to find 2024 Alco bodes mounted on older chassis with different construction.
What I'm specifically after is the part number for a grooved drive wheel, non-geared wheel. This engine has only one traction tire, and it can barely pull itself out of bed in the morning, let alone a consist of 5 cars. Train Tender has a geared, grooved MPC era wheel, but I would like to stick closer to an original look, and of course, I'm not at all certain it would fit. Need a part number for the grooved wheel that is on there - one more should do the trick.
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