I placed two replacement part orders with them on the support website, one each side of Christmas. I've only been charged for the first one and that just happened today. I am not surprised that they are running a little behind their normal speed at this time of year. The consolation (for me anyway) is that it indicates there is still some human intervention involved in the process!
I'm pretty sure this is one of the many Mel Price repaints. When the Lionel 17900 Santa Fe and the 17901 Chevron unibody tank cars were issued, Mel had some of them repainted into other paint schemes. This is likely one of them. Stu
Stu i think you are correct , the box it came in was a chevron tank car 6-17901, the paint job looks factory done , i got it for 23.00 bucks , i bought it to go with the meta box car of the same color, came on it by chance . thanks for the info techman
Some people want boxes they don't have, some people have boxes they don't want. Why not bring the two together? List what you have in Buy/Sell and see if you get any takers for at least some of them. I imagine somebody out there will take at least some of them off your hands . Eventually. (Personally, I'm looking for a RailKing box that'll fit this caboose , and a MTH Premier box for a 50' boxcar) ---PCJ
Surely, you have to take a variety of factors into consideration...but I say, fix em! I've used glue - and clear packing tape to good effect. On MPC and LTI era boxes - just fix them! - They are so much stronger and more useful. Pre-war flats - its up to you. Fortunately, glue works well on these. One thing is for sure - LIONEL boxes suck! Made to be destroyed when used "normally" Reverse the trucks and pray nothing catches!!! And how do you open them without ripping the lids...I use a...
I agree Jim, that western pacific car is pretty nice and I think somewhat scarce, but what most of us have are stuff like this: lionel lehigh valley black hopper car, lionel sunoco 3 dome tank car, lionel 6457 caboose with rough box, or lionel 3461x lumber car with rough box, how about putting a price on these just for example and then how much extra would a box left rough be worth over a box with tape? Just for example thanks, now be careful or you might own these! Thanks
Roving Sign, I hear you! My problems, regardless of manufacturer, are trying to get the styrofoam out of the box without shredding either, and then when replacing the car, the clear "window" plastic gets caught. Once it's bent up inside the box, you're doomed. That's when I break out the tape and tack the plastic back down. I'm normally very careful with my possessions but these modern boxes do not seem to be designed for frequent use. Just one woman's experience. Tomlinson Run RR
This brings back an awkward childhood memory. About age 8 or 9 I received a new Daisy BB gun for my birthday. A short time later a buddy and I were in the basement trying it out and deciding what to attack next, we found a stash of, you guessed it, Lionel train boxes. We probably peppered about 15-20 of them full of BB holes, then threw them in the trash. I guess it seemed like a great idea at the time! Thankfully the respective cars were on the layout and the boxes were empty! I seem to...
Hello RAILRIDE I have a Railking box with white insert for this caboose you have (off-set steel caboose). The box has no tears or missing flaps and the plastic window is good, it had little sign of wear and with the price sticker on the front "21.99". The condition of the box and white insert is very good to like new. This box was for a Santa Fe # 30-77016, I would try to take pictures of the box. send me E-mail if interesting. "I do this all this to make the Good News known. I do it so that...
And how do you open them without ripping the lids...I use a dentists pick to open some of them Slip a thin blade like a knife between the tuck flap and the side flap to guide the edge of the tuck flap past the side flap. It's a bit tricky until you've done it a few times. Lou Shur taught me that trick.
if I ever get up in the attic, ill dig around and see what ive got and list them. which begs another question, anybody ever shipped boxes and how do you ship them. do you ship them in place or do you fold them flat and ship them that way
I seem to have stumbled onto a hot topic with all these replies. Thanks for the many ideas. I still have to decide to make some kind of permanent repairs to boxes where the flaps on either end have come off. JohnF
After receiving a few old postwar lionel boxes with corresponding accessories or engines or cars. A thought hit me. I think others would share my sentiments. You can't run the boxes... That's true. But there are people out there who are more interested in collecting Lionel trains than running them. Nobody really knows which group is larger. Many do both. Some of those people like to have their Lionel trains in their original boxes and are willing to pay a premium for them. This is not unique...
Do you have the flaps? Was the seam torn neat or ripped? What condition is the rest of the box? It would also help if you posted a picture. Then, maybe we could give you some very specific advice. In the meantime, I will look for that box repair video I saw a while back. George
Here are some good resources: http://ourpastimes.com/restore...ard-box-5943698.html http://www.randystoyshop.com/boxres.htm http://www.thegamesjournal.com...RepairingBoxes.shtml https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8oS__7nSNo8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mBBAXhxFA6c I also prefer using Titebond Premium Wood Glue to using white glue or Elmers. George
Most usually the price on a train item is significantly higher if it includes a nice crisp box; meaning all the flaps intact without tears, no penicil-crayon-ink markings, sales stickers, adhesive residue and no creases, holes, tears in the cardboard. Many accessories, engines and some odd shaped cars had cardboard inserts inside the box. Those have value as well. Nearly all pricing is based on rarity, condition, and demand.
John, go ahead and make the box repairs--your locomotives, etc. will have more value with a repaired original box than if it is sold without a box. As noted above, a repaired box on its own may not hold much value.
Hey what about the outer shipping boxes? Are they worth saving in addition to the item's shelf box? I am unpacking all my trains to store on train room shelves. The brown cardboard shipping boxes take up a lot of room and I'd rather not keep them. None of them are older than 1995 anyway. Hoppy
If you actually keep the inner boxes inside the shipping boxes, it's not a lot of extra room. (well, it adds up a little based on the thickness of the cardboard, but I assume you mean keeping them separate form the inner box?) They can help protect the inner box so it doesn't get as much shelf wear over the years (dinged corners, marks from sliding across the shelf, etc). Value probably not a huge differential, but they definitely can help preserve the inner box. Given a choice, I prefer an...
Correct. Tape will eventually ruin your boxes even if you can get it to look good at first, which is very difficult. I have repaired boxes with high quality wood glue used sparingly. I then clamp it or press it until dry enough to hold. I also read a thread somewhere discussing box repair. There are some very sofisticated approaches to torn box repair as well. Water damage is one of the hardest problems to solve. BTW, I do like to keep boxes and I do value boxed items more. However, I don't...
Why would you ruin them with tape in any case? If you are going to take the time to do something, do it right. As tape ages, it will discolor and lose it's adhesion. I have seen it many times. By that time, the finish of the box is destroyed. If you want to keep the boxes and keep them nice, don't use tape. George
I can't speak to the collecting value of taped boxes one way or another but from an archival point of view, I can see two safe options. One is to use acid free "scotch" tape. Most stores commonly sell this now because of its safe use for photo albums (remember those from pre-phone camera days? :-). It shouldn't crack or yellow. The second option would be to use archival mending tape, which you can find in art stores. It is much weaker and more like rice paper but if you just want to shore up...
Now show me one with a dump car or a 3 lid tank car or a hopper car please. The man was not talking about the rare items. He has an old set out of the attic. How do you know? I reread the original post. The poster didn't say what he had.
IMHO, putting tape on the outside of a postwar box pretty much reduces the value to zero. Then again, I don't think a tattered box has much value anyway, unless it is a very rare one, with contents. Many 1960's pieces were normally sold in sets where the pieces did not have individual boxes. Sometimes boxed examples of those pieces will bring a significant premium. But I am not taking big bucks in any case.
Here's an example of a box that is worth as much if not more than its contents. It just walked into the local train shop as part of its train set (#2223W). The owner had no idea of its value or rarity. He was amply rewarded in the four figure price we paid for the set. You never know what's out there. As far as box restoration is concerned, it can be approached with the same techniques as used for museum preservation of valuable paper documents. It's just a matter of matching the degree of...
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