Dave - yes, second hand Weaver will be cheaper and I have lots of them in my collection, but I think the re=engineered trucks and the additional weight will be an improvement. Pre-orders for these are really coming in - very popular. Thanks. Steve.....
That is the only O Scale EJ&E covered steel coil car that has been proposed to be mass produced. The K-Line O scale Evans Products covered steel coil car was never made in Elgin, Joliet & Eastern. Andrew
The Milwaukee Road Pullman-Standard PS-2-CD 4740 Cu Ft 3-bay covered hoppers were in the series MILW 100000-100499 and built in 1970. Here are a few photos from the Canadian Freight Railcar Gallery website.
I think there might be a savings cost in Lionel doing this themselves. Lionel has ordered all of its products from manufacturers overseas and a manufacturer in the US. So those companies have to make money the same as Lionel. It seems they are essentially "cutting out the middle man." Just a thought to consider..
You think the cost of the tooling might have something to do with it? Lionel didn't have to shell out the bucks to have this tooling made - they bought it from a previous owner going out of business - sort of like buying a used car - with bad wheels.
I have a question Steve. Will these "new improved" 2 rail trucks fit Weaver cars or only the redesigned Lionel cars? i don't understand all the negativity towards Weaver trucks. I have never had a problem with them in either 2 rail or 3. True the cars themselves were underweighted but at least for boxcars that is very easily fixed with stick on weights. I added enough weight to bring the car up to NMRA specs and I had no problems with it whatsoever. Again in both 2 rail and 3.
I am hoping that Lionel will start offering custom cars for clubs, using the Weaver dies. My club used to do a yearly car through Weaver. Before Weaver shut down we had some planned using the PS-1 boxcar, single sheathed wood side boxcar, and the wood reefer.
Hi Steve, How about something like this? http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wo...42936,42938&ap=1 I use this arrangement to cut plywood sub-roadbed ( I use Fastrack). It works quite well. The bad news is you're still gonna have to use some type of Jig Saw to do the cuttin'. Good luck on the new lay out and the new location!! Chief Bob (Retired)
If you're good with a table saw, you can make spline roadbed -- a series of strips of material laminated to form a thick roadbed. Each spline can be separated by space pieces. Here's a link that gives a good description: http://s145079212.onlinehome.us/rr/howto/splines/ Curves have natural easements when spline roadbed is used, plus creating turnout splines is very easy -- split the spline for the diverging and non-diverging routes, fill the gap and keep going. The spline doesn't have to be...
Good Morning Steve.......I have only used the cookie cutter plywood type of construction. To cut the curved pcs. I would make a large compass out of tempered Masonite wide enough to mount a router with a spiral straight bit, on one end. then make holes for a bolt pivot point at the desired radius. The 4x8 plywood was laid down on the shop floor on top of 4x8 extruded foam(not white bead board) another sheet was laid down at right angles making a T for the pivot point. I made 120" dia.
This is my next project. I have a lot of concentric curves O-90, O-81, O-72, O-63. I plan to make a 48" long compass that I will attach to the mid-point edge of the long side of a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood with a pivot hinge. I may even, attach my jig saw to the compass at the different cutting radii. Out of each sheet, I can get a half circle of all 4 different curves.
Steve, I know what you mean about curves being a pain to cut. Here's what I use: My compass is just a 6' long, heavy gauge, perforated steel strap, most commonly used for hanging garage door tracks and openers. Get it at any home improvement store. Doubles as a straight edge. Unfortunately, the holes aren't at one inch intervals, but it's still easy to work with. The real key is a good saber saw. I've had this Bosch for over 20 years. I couldn't imagine building my layout without it. Good...
MrMuffin'sTrains, I use a good Porter Cable industrial Saber Saw for Sawing the 3/4 ply, and I use the Rockwell X2 Portable Table Saw for making Custom FasTrack pieces for close outs, both work great. PCRR/Dave
Blade and stroke speed are as important as the saw. Someone at Home Depot or your hardware store should aim you to the correct product. Things like the length, teeth per inch and type of material you're cutting. Also, if you cut tight curves you might want a blade that's not too wide. Wider blades are good for straight and wider radius cuts. Last winter I cut up an old oil tank in my basement with reciprocating saw. I searched the internet and found a guy on youtube who cut up a tank with...
Thanks Chris! I actually have two of those. One was used to build both of my helixes. I took a block of wood and screwed an eye screw into the end, then mounted the strap to the block. Then I took a piece of metal conduit and mounted from floor to ceiling, making sure it was plumb. This picture is over 3 years old.
That is a great bit of engineering there Elliot and a brilliant way of making those helix's....or any radius for that matter. I like the idea of it being re-usable and as you said doubling as a straight edge.
MicroMark Rotape Item Number 82624 and Pencil Lead Item Number 82626, minimum radius 3.5 inches, maximum radius 72 inches, lead is number HB drafting lead, this lead is soft and marks radii with distinctive black lines, chisel sharpen lead to wedge one side at approximate 60 degree angle, cut out curved panel with jig or scroll saw. This method worked quite well using 1/2 inch plywood sheet 4 ft by 8 ft., save sheet drops for deck sheet irregular areas, good luck on new layout, framework was...
If you have access to a CNC router table that for sure is the best method. Other wise use a trammel to lay out your fixed curved: Cut just out side the line with a Bosch jig saw then mounting the router on a trammel run the router directly on the line. I use a 3/4" bit to just clean up the edge., If you use the router w/o the Bosch jig sawto do the whole job the bit has a shorter life. For the cosmetic curves somewhat the same Blocks with lattice strips for cosmetic curves. I use the lattice...
Steve: Fast and dirty - I agree with previous posts a jig saw with a fine tooth blade. You will have tear out though but it is easily hidden by turning that face down. Cabinet makers method - a circle cutting jig and a band saw with the proper blade. You will get almost perfect curves and all will be exactly the same. Cut the outside arcs first, reposition the jig and cut the inside arcs. Depending on the blade you may still get some tear out. Joe
To save the face of any panel you are cutting from the face side, simply use a laminate blade. It cuts on the down stroke. You need to firmly hold down the Bosch jig saw but there is no need to turn the material over for bottom cutting. If you sneak a laminate blade into some one else's jig saw, have a video camera running.
What are the two protrusions with a hole in them on the nose of all but the Wabash unit? Picture of the real Southern 6900 does not have them! I was all set to order a set but do not like the protrusion. Also, I do not think MTH is offering an unpowered A unit for any of the road names. Don
Joe, I talked with mike the last time he was at trainstock, they would have to make a new set of molds to get the "fixed" pilot in front of the trucks. Mike has changed the front of these old weaver molds to get the second headlight in the nose door and he said that was not "cheap", also has to design new trucks to make them 3/2 compatible. I wonder if he could do what atlas did with there F3 A units in 3 rail, in every powered version atlas added a "fixed pilot". You just unscrewed the...
Thanks for the nice picture. My point was the original units did not have ditch lights period. Why the wabash managed to escape the wild imaginations of product planners will be a great mystery ! thats all !! IMHO the worst thing ever to ruin the appearance of any locomotive has been those awfull lights. having said that i feel much better. conrail john
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