In the very near future we will be carrying the much sought after 30AWG stranded, teflon coated L.E.D. electrical installation wire. Initial colors will be BLACK, RED & GRAY and will come in 24 ft. rolls. PRICE: $10.50 ea. (Includes Shipping In CONUS) Dave, LBR
Way back the larger diameter (AWG???) wire wrap wire was teflon coated. Later the smaller .014" wire is kynar coated. I have a few thousand yards of the small stuff and its what I use for LEDs, opto sensors, etc. hopefully Dave will be offering appropiate wire strippers. A lot of strippers will have trouble with teflon. I use No Niks which work great but may be NLA. Pete
This is encouraging that a hobby dominated by "old, white men" per the WSJ, has such a demand for small gauge wire. ALL SCALES: 26AWG Super Flex Wire Soon ALL SCALES: L.E.D. ultimate hook up wire 32AWG SUPER FLEX Electrical Wire Soon 30AWG Teflon Coated Wire Available Soon Maybe we're not that old after all.
I realize you're not asking a trick question, but here's a trick answer. Another application of 30 gauge wire is to make stranded wire. For example, 22 gauge stranded wire is typically made with 7 strands of 30 gauge wire!
I like the solid wire since it is easier to form into a shape and have it stay put. I can route it away from pinch points and it will stay there. I don't worry about the current carrying capability of the stranded wire versus solid wire cause my LEDs are running at such a low frequency (not much of a skin effect). I would advise against using either magnet wire or teflon coated wire in applications where fret abrasion or physical pressure is a concern. But you can always slip shrink tubing...
I asked because I have an old spool of 30 gauge cloth covered solid wire and a spool of 28 gauge plastic covered stranded wire. The stranded roll is silver. I purchased it at a computer show, where I was told it was for wiring backplanes. (Who knows?) I've used some of the 28 gauge for something or other, I have never used the 30 gauge. As far as strippers go: After using a friend's, I purchased a set of Klein strippers. I think they work great. I just stripped a bit off of the ends of my...
Isn't this the wire used with wire wrap tools on bread board back in the day? Another alternative is to use magnet wire which is coated with a fairly tough insulated coating that can be scraped off for soldering where necessary.
I'm not old enough to remember that (only 73). Magnet wire is good for a lot of applications except where it is passing through metal as it will sometimes rub on a metal edge and short out. Sometimes a lot of aggravation. Better to use the Teflon coated where you are dealing with metal structure. Dave, LBR
The No-Nik tool is pretty specialized. Each tool is sized for a particular wire gauge and meant for very thin insulation. Back in the day it was used for wire wrap wire with thin kynar insulation. Not as good or even useless if the insulation is too thick. Pete
Nice tool. I have the poor man's version below, acquired at a Rat Shack a few years ago. It's adjustable (via the nut and bolt fixture on it) to allow the strip opening to be micro tweaked to get it to precisely the right size. That the good news. The bad news is the only way to effectively set the opening to said " precisely the right size" is through trial and error testing on the given wire being used. Ergo, I inevitably end up wasting an inch or two of wire in that adjustment phase...
I use my No-Nik all the time, the #30 wire-wrap wire is perfect for lighting in shells. It doesn't take up room, and can be routed easily and just tacked in place. I got introduced to the No-Nik tool in the 60's when wire-wrap was king, don't see it much anymore.
If your budget for a Kynar stripping tool is $0, here are two methods. I have used both methods and they really work! These are not my videos. Here's a close-up of my modified nail-clipper. The donor needle is shown at left - note how it too gets deformed (note nicks near tip). A couple suggestions. Start from the tip and work up the size of the hole. Obviously you are trying to make the hole a tad more than the 0.01" wire diameter, but less than the ~0.02" insulation diameter. Unless you...
I think the .012 No-Nik should work with .010 wire without too much issue. AAMOF, that's what I use on he .010 wire, I just checked. I never even gave it a thought previously, they've worked flawlessly for #30 wire for years. Note the diameter of the wire and the designation on the strippers in the shot below. Ignore the red pointer, that's for metric measurements, it's a dual-scale caliper.
Odd CW. Which one is correct? I got out my "Machinery's Handbook". Unfortunately, there are six different standards listed in one table for wire gauges For gauge 30: American Wire gauge (AWG), also called Brown & Sharpe .0100 Steel Wire Gauge (U.S.) .0140 British Standard Wire gauge, also called Imperial Wire gauge .0124 Music or Piano Wire gauge .080 Birmingham of Stub's Iron Wire gauge .0120 Stub's Steel Wire gauge .127 Then to make things more complicated, there are a number of other...
No. Unless you intend to run a higher than usual current for this size wire. An LED connected to this wire is perfectly safe. The LED will require only 20 milliamps of current max. As GunRunnerJohn pointed out somewhere else, the size of wire required for this small amount of current is not visible to the naked eye. A fuse is not necessary just because the wire is small.
Before you buy anything involving Teflon, you should learn about the environmental and human costs - you can start here: https://www.nytimes.com/2016/0...worst-nightmare.html https://highline.huffingtonpos...autiful-parkersburg/ David
In the very near future we will be carrying the much sought after 32AWG stranded, SUPER FLEXL.E.D. electrical installation wire. Initial colors will be BLACK, RED & GRAY and will come in 24 ft. rolls. PRICE: $15.25 ea. (Includes Shipping In CONUS) Dave, LBR
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