I am wanting suggestions from other modelers as to what colors you used to paint heavyweight AT&SF passenger cars. I have read or researched a 'truck brown' color for the trucks and a different olive green color for the body of the car. I hope to simulate this on O scale models with scalecoat or tru color paint. All suggestions will be appreciated. This is my first venture into Santa Fe modeling. Guess I am getting tired of ACL purple and Seaboard citrus.
I have a I Lionel Century Club 726 from around 1997. It's a great engine and all, but over the 9 or 10 years I have had the engine it has lost its shine. Its black paint is now dull compared to the shine when I got it. Is there a way for me to bring back the shine on it? Note: Don't want to repaint the engine.
I bought some Terra Cotta to paint my work caboose to match my 810 crane. (Collector Color) It looks much brighter like an orange 813 than my 810. Does anyone know why? Do the older paints age a darker color? How can I buy paints that actually match? Should I just "rub some dirt on it"? George
I recently got a used MTH NJ Transit AEM7 from eBay. I don’t mind a little work. The pantographs were snapped off then glued back on. I removed most of the glue. I need to repaint some parts of the engine. What are some good paint matching tools or if anyone knows the colors? Black, silver, pink, blue and orange. RBG codes? I also need the pantograph connectors (the rubber parts that connect then pantograph to the top of the loco). Engine runs great otherwise. Pics are from before I removed...
Among the “junk” I have acquired are many train cars with disreputable looking black metal frames. More paint has been lost in the rust removal process. These cars are not collector items. Their appearance would benefit from a coat of black paint. QUESTION: Which brand and type of paint have you found works best ? Thanks for your comments.
How often do you see a car or locomotive out on ebay that looks just like what you need and want and is available for little money – and then you discover that it was cheap for a reason. I had such a buy recently where my desire was stronger than my criticism. The car was indeed in a bad shape with the decal film coming off, the body sat on its trucks in an oblique angle painted with tons of oils. But was a good buy anyway because I learned a lot. And I do now really appreciate the...
Hi everyone, as stated in my previous posting (RTA Bi-Level re-paint project) about being unable or impatient to find Metra bilevels or locomotives (F40PH's)... I've decided to make a 2nd attempt at custom painting. This time, I picked up a nice MTH Railking CSX F40PH (broken up from a RTR set) from a local guy via the bay. Good runner, low scale miles and time on the clock. I decided to paint this into a pre-metra RTA powder blue paint scheme. I had a Bachman Spectrum HO model on hand to go...
I’m nearing a finished layout table surface. What color paint do you folks recommend for the base ? My scenery will include a small downtown, passenger station, army depot, and Pennsylvania rocky mountain cut-thru. I will eventually ballast the Ross Custom track. Thanks for any ideas.
I have all Gargraves three rail track. I have started painting the sides of the outside rails using the Rail Brown, Railroad Colors alcohol-based paint. Has anyone found a better paint or way to do this?
Looking for suggestions on painting sculptamold walls along the right of way on my layout.I have read some posts that suggest it must be completely dry or else you get blotchy results.Other comments suggest to start painting while it is still wet.
Hi everyone, trainfam here for Christmas I received a Lionel mfg era 38 engine painted in black, with red window trim and red trim on the base of the shell. Here’s a photo: The reason I’m posting is because I’m going to search for the cars to make it a set again. Again it’s a mfg era 38, my guess is it was made from 1916 to 1917 I am not sure if it came with freight or passenger cars ether, so any help would be appreciated. Thanks, trainfam
>> send them back look at the rust on those wheels Wheels and couplers (and steam loco side rods) are normally unpainted - makes it easier to see defects. Do they plan to wash tem after each trip? I wonder how long before those light colors start looking grungy?
Depending on your particular color choices and needs, either brand is fine, as is plain Testors spray paint. ...as is spray paint from the hardware store. Avoid the weird ones ("6 coats in one!" "engineered for space plastics!"); plain flat gray primer, white, black, oxide primer (good boxcar/caboose color) from a dollar store are superb, and usually spray less at a time - they're cheap, after all - which is good for control. If you venture into lots of colors, I would stick with the model...
As always, it's an individual preference. TEHO, I say. As for me....Tamiya. The spray quality is much, much better than with the Testors rattle can products. Just my septuagenarian opinion, mind you. The most telling color by which I've made this judgment is silver. When I was repainting the car end/vestibule moldings of a set of Lionel 2500-seroies (aluminum) passenger cars from the mid 50's, I tried both on opposite ends of a single car. No doubt about it, Tamiyq's Silver Leaf had the...
I always find it interesting how our individual opinions may vary...that's what makes this Forum great! Although I do agree that this is a nice-looking paint scheme--and will make for yet another cool O-scale model--I think it's a very poor attempt by NS at doing a D&H "Heritage" unit. Other than the blue and gray (which don't even appear to be the correct shades), IMO it bears no real resemblance to the D&H's classic "lightning stripe" scheme.
I think you've been duped. As many others have said on the other thread, I don't think this has anything to do with the D&H. For one, there are no D&H markings and two, it is clearly marked for "DC to AC".
It will be interesting to see the re-do. Just a little food for thought. NS did not purchase all of the D&H from CP, just a specific portion. The D&H is still a subsidiary of CP. Maybe that's where the "closeness" to the D&H scheme creates an objection???? And, just for fun, back during the PC merger time line, the D&H had been rolled into a N&W subsidiary/holding company called DERECO. (This was, presumably, to help keep a connection to other traffic and keep the D&H...
If I wanted to polish your loco, I think I'd use Zymol automotive polish, and be prepared for a lot of fine detail work to get all the nooks and crannies. Otherwise, there will be little bits of blue in them. But it's more likely I'd just leave it be.
What continually amazes me is that with the exception of two HO models: a slightly over-sized Tyco and an Arbor Models white metal kit, is there has never been any other commercial model in any scale of Sierra #3: Rusty
Well as I said in my video review MTH makes the 10-wheeler in variety of different railroad liveries. Virginia & Truckee is one. What this one was painted as prior to the Hooterville Cannonball was the Great American Circus locomotive from 2011. Base price usually is $429.99. Although you might find one on eBay for slightly cheaper. Depends where you look. As far as I know there is no commercially available Sierra 3. Other then the HO Tyco models during the late sixties early seventies.
Thanks for the info. If MTH made one like the Cannonball, I think it would be a big hit with guys around my age (63), and maybe with the younger people, too. Also, those pictures of the water tower, does anyone know of any people that would make those for special order?
I will say I did make a mention of the driver spacing during the wheel arrangement section of the review, but I played it over and over again, and it sounded kind of rude to be honest. So I deleted it. Besides, it looks like the Cannonball. I could really care less about the driver spacing. Now the "purists" and "rivet-counters" might have something to say about it. But I just say.."meh."
FutureRail, Unless you are skilled at building from scratch or bashing a locomotive, you have to be willing to take the best of what is available then alter it as much as your skills and or wallet will allow. While I like my models to be close to prototype, I am no purest. You got the essence of the Canonball/Sierra 3 and that is good for me. You have me wanting one now!! As I said, I always liked the show, Now that I am over 60, I sometimes make the comment, "Just call me Uncle Joe, 'caus...
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