Set was test run for a short distance once and is new otherwise. Priced to sell at $995 plus shipping. Includes: 6-38712 Wabash F7 AA units, One powered 6-38715 Wabash F7 Powered B unit 6-38716 Wabash F7 Non-Powered B unit 6-82550 Wabash Blue Bird 4-Car 21" Passenger Set 6-82555 Wabash Blue Bird 2-Car (all Dome) Passenger Car Set 6-82884 Wabash Blue Bird Station Sounds Diner Contact Bill Webb at email@example.com
Mike, That does make a lot of sense in both statements, so thanks for that. The C&O streamlined Yellowbelly and the Wabash 2046-style Hudson from 1995 did have RailSounds 2, as well as TMCC LCRU2's inside, and they came before the Geeps. And I was considering that thought of RS3.0 audio boards myself - Lionel does still have some on their parts site that would do wonders for me just plugging into a RS powered motherboard, like the L3A Mohawk and the Commodore Vanderbilt ones, as I would...
I love my Penn boxcar from the 50's that my brother bought me and my Wabash guy on the roof car that I bought as a kid but otherwise I never really cared for the 6464 group. This is one area I actually like the scale cars better.
I love Lionel rolling stock....not so much their passenger cars or any other illuminated car.....the wires always seem to break...illuminated no more. darn shame too....100 + years and still can’t get it right
I was having trouble with my Sd 80 mac making a grinding noise from the front truck.Found the front motor was grinding on the gears.Pulled the shell off and found a loose motor.I can see the motor screws are loose.My question would be how to achieve access to the screw heads.Any help would be appreciated Thanks.
I ordered this from Trainz (bad idea) under the pretenses of it being a Williams part but I did not look at it closely enough to notice it had ladders on it so I assume it is actually for a Lionel. No brand printed on it but I think Lionel was one of the few to slap ladders on the frame. Anyway, since it does not work for my Williams PA-1 I have no need for it. Looking to get $30 plus shipping. It's in great shape and to scale.
What happened to the original one? I have re-used turbine insulation plates that were cracked or broken in half. I have found that if you are able to put them in place and reattach the collector assembly, they will stay in place. They also work fine with little chips here and there, as long as the chips are not too serious.
How bad is the original that you need to replace it? The only supplier that showed the 671-186X was Dew Associates, and sadly it is "OUT OF STOCK". All the other suppliers I have bookmarked, only list the 1947 style in stock. There is an alternative, if the original isn't badly damaged. You can try to use Card Stock, like poster board, and make one, by tracing the outline of the original. Then use an Xacto knife to cut the slits, and use small drill bit to make the screw holes. I have done...
You'll get help, but more than likely its "do it yourself" help. A track powered unit would be somewhat different., but most of the cheaper ones aren't worth the cost of a repair shop, (sentimental attachment aside). Lionel had a part in producing some cheap ones, and really good ones both. #1 Does that run on batteries or powered track? That is question #1 for sure.(no link, unfamiliar loco, & can't really tell) Q.#2- Is this O gauge? Normally G belongs in the HO,N,G,Z section for best...
If it is the set pictured, it is G gauge with a IR remote, constant voltage to the track. The electronics fail and are not repairable. I have converted some of these trains to run with a conventional DC HO transformer, but the IR remote can not be used nor will it have any sounds. Any local service station should be to do this conversion if you want to save it.
I suspect someone rolled the lamp wires on the lighting board. Here is the link to the LL website showing the board (#6 on the photo) https://www.lionelsupport.com/...d4-b233-766e50ad2664 Getting into the docksider can be interesting...take a few photos with your phone as you pull parts off, so you will know how they all go back together. It's not as bad as the old K-line 0-4-0 Porter for repairs , but can still be a handful.
I had purchased two of the first series of this locomotive (Reading) back in late 2003 or early 2004. They cost $90.00 each. It is actually a saddle tank locomotive with it's water tank wrapped around it's boiler. This little engine is very amazing as one can pull around 20 freight cars. Earlier this year one of them started to run slower and slower until it would only run in reverse. Then smoke started to come out from inside the boiler. I disassembled the locomotive and found that the...
Surely, you have to take a variety of factors into consideration...but I say, fix em! I've used glue - and clear packing tape to good effect. On MPC and LTI era boxes - just fix them! - They are so much stronger and more useful. Pre-war flats - its up to you. Fortunately, glue works well on these. One thing is for sure - LIONEL boxes suck! Made to be destroyed when used "normally" Reverse the trucks and pray nothing catches!!! And how do you open them without ripping the lids...I use a...
I agree Jim, that western pacific car is pretty nice and I think somewhat scarce, but what most of us have are stuff like this: lionel lehigh valley black hopper car, lionel sunoco 3 dome tank car, lionel 6457 caboose with rough box, or lionel 3461x lumber car with rough box, how about putting a price on these just for example and then how much extra would a box left rough be worth over a box with tape? Just for example thanks, now be careful or you might own these! Thanks
Roving Sign, I hear you! My problems, regardless of manufacturer, are trying to get the styrofoam out of the box without shredding either, and then when replacing the car, the clear "window" plastic gets caught. Once it's bent up inside the box, you're doomed. That's when I break out the tape and tack the plastic back down. I'm normally very careful with my possessions but these modern boxes do not seem to be designed for frequent use. Just one woman's experience. Tomlinson Run RR
This brings back an awkward childhood memory. About age 8 or 9 I received a new Daisy BB gun for my birthday. A short time later a buddy and I were in the basement trying it out and deciding what to attack next, we found a stash of, you guessed it, Lionel train boxes. We probably peppered about 15-20 of them full of BB holes, then threw them in the trash. I guess it seemed like a great idea at the time! Thankfully the respective cars were on the layout and the boxes were empty! I seem to...
Hello RAILRIDE I have a Railking box with white insert for this caboose you have (off-set steel caboose). The box has no tears or missing flaps and the plastic window is good, it had little sign of wear and with the price sticker on the front "21.99". The condition of the box and white insert is very good to like new. This box was for a Santa Fe # 30-77016, I would try to take pictures of the box. send me E-mail if interesting. "I do this all this to make the Good News known. I do it so that...
And how do you open them without ripping the lids...I use a dentists pick to open some of them Slip a thin blade like a knife between the tuck flap and the side flap to guide the edge of the tuck flap past the side flap. It's a bit tricky until you've done it a few times. Lou Shur taught me that trick.
if I ever get up in the attic, ill dig around and see what ive got and list them. which begs another question, anybody ever shipped boxes and how do you ship them. do you ship them in place or do you fold them flat and ship them that way
I seem to have stumbled onto a hot topic with all these replies. Thanks for the many ideas. I still have to decide to make some kind of permanent repairs to boxes where the flaps on either end have come off. JohnF
After receiving a few old postwar lionel boxes with corresponding accessories or engines or cars. A thought hit me. I think others would share my sentiments. You can't run the boxes... That's true. But there are people out there who are more interested in collecting Lionel trains than running them. Nobody really knows which group is larger. Many do both. Some of those people like to have their Lionel trains in their original boxes and are willing to pay a premium for them. This is not unique...
Do you have the flaps? Was the seam torn neat or ripped? What condition is the rest of the box? It would also help if you posted a picture. Then, maybe we could give you some very specific advice. In the meantime, I will look for that box repair video I saw a while back. George
Here are some good resources: http://ourpastimes.com/restore...ard-box-5943698.html http://www.randystoyshop.com/boxres.htm http://www.thegamesjournal.com...RepairingBoxes.shtml https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8oS__7nSNo8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mBBAXhxFA6c I also prefer using Titebond Premium Wood Glue to using white glue or Elmers. George
Most usually the price on a train item is significantly higher if it includes a nice crisp box; meaning all the flaps intact without tears, no penicil-crayon-ink markings, sales stickers, adhesive residue and no creases, holes, tears in the cardboard. Many accessories, engines and some odd shaped cars had cardboard inserts inside the box. Those have value as well. Nearly all pricing is based on rarity, condition, and demand.
John, go ahead and make the box repairs--your locomotives, etc. will have more value with a repaired original box than if it is sold without a box. As noted above, a repaired box on its own may not hold much value.
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