hi Matt it's a booster (an extra set of cilinders) ,to give more pulling power for a short time with the 3 cilinders and it's booster i had a traction effort off 89000lb (without booster 750000lb) i have scanned a model railroader from 1971, for those who wants to put more details on it Cor
is it only the motor you are missing? the motorising kit was with the wheels with a steel rim and pick ups. all pictures and text in red on the manual are the extras who came in the motorising kit any 12v motor will do fine, i have put a faulhaber in it, a bit larger then the origional , but with some try and error it is posible post some pictures ,its easyer to see what your problem is Cor
Hi I can post pictures but all I have is literally many bags (and I mean LOTS of bags - according to the shipping weight 6 pounds of them - supposedly enough for 5 engines and 1 tender) of plastic only parts with 95% of all the pieces still on the sprue I needed your instructions just so I could start to sort all the various pieces out. I think they may have even included parts from other kits LOL There are no metal parts at all (no wheels, pickups, wires etc) so I imagine I would need what...
best thing to do can be , buy annother one cIAAOSw44BYTZvE" target="_blank">http://www.ebay.com/itm/model-...f:g cIAAOSw44BYTZvE here you have one (i think cheap) , and maybe there are forum members who can help you on this otherwise you have a shelf queen. if it is the model you like, you can take a look on the www and look for a KMT , i believe, they made a brass one how i know, i have 3 of them and doing a remotering on them Cor
Hi Moonlicht I rechecked definitely no metal parts. So it looks like its a shelf queen and a parts box item (lots of parts LOL) OH Well I might be able to buy a damaged working similar model and kit bash this to fit on the chassis but that is a project for an other time Thank you for all your effort on my behalf
Yes it's a bit sad you can't get it up and running they look good on the track crawling slowly through a maze of turnouts but then I suppose Brass one's are the same except I've never seen a brass locomotive in standard O scale and probably never will. I can live without them, I have plenty of Rivarossi 0-8-0 kits to play with and the layout is completely diesel for operations. Roo.
Yes - they are beautiful models, and in the proper scale for the track gauge. But motorizing them does little to make them better. You would really need a better engine bed and metal drivers, with a good NWSL gearbox and an 8000-series Pittman or equivalent. I had one, motorized, and loved the detail, but as a runner it sucked. The KTM version is 1/4" scale, and not as well detailed, but it will run better. They are showing up at around $450 on eBay.
Thanks, Ron! BTW... this answers the question about the EMD exhaust stack location. With the prime mover in the same location on the CPA-20-5 and the CFA-20-4, I'm going with the replacement EMD 567 would be in the same location. FYI... the Central did not replace the 1600 HP FM Diesel engines, just the 2000. Thanks! -Mario
Day 1... To prevent breakage of any parts, like the steps, I'm trying something different and mounting the shell to something a little more sturdy. The pilot is gone, and something new is the seam for the front valence above the windscreen, where the horns sit behind. The usual... the fan tops have been trimmed, the steam generator details have been shaved and the molded-in lift rings are cut off, as well as the existing FM exhaust stack. Thanks, - Mario.
I have 4 of the Atlas F-9s and 2 of the C-liners. I bought the F-9s years and years and years ago and the C-liners off eBay within the last year. I don't have a layout up only a loop of track. I don't run my trains very often and the ones that get run the least are the F-9s and the C-liners. Surprisingly, they all run very well for how old they are. I really like them a lot. F-9s pull pretty good but can't pull a lot of cars. Don't think I've ever pulled any cars with the C-Liners. Sorry, I...
I wouldn't pay more than $30 or so, the F9's can suffer from split gears, there not hard to fix or, you can replace the axles with NWSL replacements, the axle on the inside of the gear tower can brake away, this can be fixed with a 3mm piece of steel rod or a nail. They both suffer from being under powered. The thing is all these things can be relatively easily fixed if you don't mind fiddling, and kadee's 805's would be fine. cTr...( Choose the Right )
For the most part, I agree with the above. The nice thing about the Atlas F9 is how simple the mechanism is, so it's easy (and fun) to modify so it can become a good "puller". I put a large CLW open-framed motor in one, added a bunch of weight, and it pulls quite nicely. And yes, I've had to replace the gears/axles/wheels on all of 'em; which is also easy to do... Mark in Oregon
I sold a 8 of of the F9s in the last 2 years. 4 went for 50 apiece. 2 went as a pair for 125 I think, they had low end DCC decoders. These locos will run with HO size decoders. The last 2 I sold for 200. I had converted them to Pennsy. remved the pilots and added passenger pilots. I cut off all the cast grabs and replaced them with wire. I removed the steam generator exhaust on the hood and patched it. Then I added PRR antennas and painted them PRR Freight scheme - very dark green with...
Paul, You might want to keep an eye out for All Nation diesels also. Their motors and drive systems are quite a bit more robust, but are usually reasonably priced for the value. You will find them either single or dual powered, and either delrin chain or gear drive. All run well and are often seen right around the $100 price range. They are smooth, powerful runners. Jim
I also have 4 AHM c-liners. When I got them they were very common. They are only powered on one truck, but it is self contained. I got a bunch and double powered all of mine, it is a drop in job. They are still running after 25 or so years. I have two converted to DCC now and 2 on the shelf. As mentioned, the mechanisms are lightweight, but seem very well engineered to me. I filled ithe big holes in the pilots, shaved off the cast grabs and added wire ones, and put on PRR antennas. I also...
I have one of the Atlas F9's . Nice model for the price. Gonna buy another and a ton of P and D hobby parts and build them up. Overall not bad locos and they run pretty good for what they are. I got mine for 25 bucks.
For medium to heavy service I recommend modifying the Atlas F9 drive for "sure footing". As built the power trucks will rock up off the rail head under load due to it's high in the body truck mount. John Armstrong wrote an excellent article in a 1970's/80's Issue of MR on sure footing the F9. I don't have the reference but a search of this forum may reveal the issue with the article as it has been previously discussed here.
If you want to model an F3 or F7 instead of an F9, P&D still has kits for the bodies/units as an alternativer to kitbashing. I have an A_B set of the F3s with high fans and small number boards, and the they built up very nicely.
To tempt you with vintage 2 rail. He is a All Nation F7, beautifully assembled, painted and detailed for the GN, sporting a CLW power chassis(sprung brass trucks and huge open frame motor between them). I am just not a big GN fan, so not sure what I am going to do with the paint scheme yet. I am more of a down and out shortline fan. I have some ideas I am kicking around though. Mike
I was thinking about getting into vintage 2 rail trains. This will not effect my 3 rail endeavors. Is there anything I need to know about these trains? Are there any flaws with them? I'd like to convert them to kadees. Which kadees should I use? Also, how much should I pay for cars and engines? Engines I would like to run: -Atlas F-9 -Rivarossi C-liner Atlas & AHM Plymouth
Sorry, I know this is an O-ga forum, but I'm in need of some AHM Rivarossi ho hook-horn couplers for their GG1's. I purchased the "Black Jack" and a few more of the AHM Rivarossi GG1's. These engines are in need of the hook-horn couplers and the small plastic pins that hold them in place. I tried search the net and no luck, so I figured I'd try here. These hook-horn couplers and pins are different then the usual ones. I need (purchase) atleast 3 couplers and two pins, I'd purchase more if...
Good morning, everyone. It is with both joy and sorrow that I bring you a new beginning to the transformation of a stock Rivarossi C-Liner into hopefully, a masterpiece. A HUGE thank you to Tom D. for supplying the foundation, upon I shall build.
Hello all, I received several hopefully complete kits from an EBay auction with no directions recently. The kit parts are for an AHM Rivarossi Indiana Harbor Belt 0-8-0 Switcher kit I was wondering where I might find any assembly information. Thanx in advance for any help. Ron T
Are there sources of information about AHM and/or Rivarossi HO streamlined steam engines that you would recommend? Perhaps a summary of which ones were produced and when, or parts diagrams, photos, etc. Tips and tricks to maintain/repair them would be great. And good dealers or eBay sellers from whom to purchase engines and/or parts? Thank you! Dave
Why is one brush on Rivarossi HO engines, at least those with motor P-231-009, made of a wire mesh and the other brush made of carbon? Was the idea behind the wire mesh brush to keep the commutators clean? Does it work? Is it essential to use one? Can they be run without harm with two carbon brushes instead? Do they run any better with two carbon brushes? Thank you. Dave
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