Tagged With "Windup"

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Restoration Estimate Inquiry

Elgaucho ·
I thought I'd get an estimate for a restoration job (in case I'm too afraid to do it myself) and I was BLOWN AWAY by the cost! (I'm not even sure of this train is worth that price "new"!) For 6-8hrs work... this engine and sections of the passenger cars would cost about USD$680-700 (essentially, a day's work) Do you agree?!! If you agree it's too much, would you recommend someone? Thanks everyone! El Gaucho (Argentine Cowboy).. but you can call me Ariel
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Re: Restoration Estimate Inquiry

Bossman284 ·
Too many variables to answer your question. First off it may be 8 hours of work, but it will be many days, because there needs to be time between the restoration steps. The next thing I would need to know is what will be the finished product? Is he just cleaning and removing the rust? Or is he repainting everything to make it look brand new? I would imagine the gold trimmed boxed on the passenger cars them selves would take a long time by itself. Any finally, I'd need to know who is doing...
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Re: Restoration Estimate Inquiry

Elgaucho ·
Thanks for the reply Bossman. It's a removing rust-job. No repaint. I'd assume he's a seasoned artist, has his own restoration shop and he sells some of his restorations. To me.. it's not worth USD$1,000 (if you count the purchase of the original.. for parts) BTW... who's this infamous "Earl Shrive"?!! Ha! Ariel
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Re: Restoration Estimate Inquiry

Bossman284 ·
If its just rust removal than I would say yest it seems to by high. "Earl Shrive" was a guy out here on the east coast that used to have auto body shops and and would paint your entire care for $99.00 It was the true epitome of "you get what you pay for" Good like with your project
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Re: Restoration Estimate Inquiry

sncf231e ·
I have a couple of this small BING's; this set in like new condition had a price (sold by a BING collector, so he knew) of about $100: And this one was just a few tens: Regards Fred
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Re: Restoration Estimate Inquiry

Elgaucho ·
Wow Fred! Beauties!! Do you know of any up for sale? I love these toy-like windups.
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Re: Early Short German Bing Wind Ups Wanted!

Elgaucho ·
Would also express interest in this small electric body (wind up) I find it'd be a great, light train set to speed around an "elevated" track! As there'd be less chance of it flyin' OFF the track
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Re: Bing Box Set - Inquiry

Elgaucho ·
The missing shaved paper filling would explain the extra space in the squares. You're right. Does your box contain the exact same train? Is the space for the tracks meant for an 6-8 curved pieces track?
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Re: Bing Box Set - Inquiry

Robert S. Butler ·
No, mine is a basic 0-4-0 with a tender, baggage and two passenger cars. The train is smaller than yours appears to be, however, the box innards, other than having a few more compartments for the train components, is divided in the same way with the track filling the larger space. My track forms an oval - 8 curved and two straight. One of the straight pieces has a hand thrown reversing switch. Speaking of track, based on your picture, it looks like you have a dead end bumper. Does your set...
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Re: Bing Box Set - Inquiry

Robert S. Butler ·
There are several engines in the 1906 Bing catalog that are a close match for your engine (the litho treatment of the tender and the engine cab is slightly different). In addition, illustrations from the same catalog match the shape of your tender and passenger car . The box cover art matches the box cover art of my 1904 set so I would estimate you are looking at a set from the 04-06 time period. 1904 Bing Set Box Cover
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Re: Bing Box Set - Inquiry

Elgaucho ·
Thank you Robert! So you're saying the engine/tender/coach are original to the box? Good to know! I'm also noticing the "floral" boarder design of your box's label to mine. I'm assuming mine, because it looks like a smaller set, didnt have room for that level of detail. Maybe it assumes a different manufacture date?
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Early Short German Bing Wind Ups Wanted!

Elgaucho ·
Hello. Take a shot here with anyone who would like to sell (OR have leads to) any simple, toy-like Bing wind ups from these eras. In particular, I'm looking for the short/stubby, big wheeled locos with matching stubby tenders (pictures attached) Any information would be greatly appreciate!
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Bing Box Set - Inquiry

Elgaucho ·
Hello. Was wondering if anyone would be able to help me identify the "age" of this box? And also if the pictured train is original to the box? (I'm trying to determine by the shape/size of the squares.. and they dont seem to match) Nonetheless, it'd be nice to know "what" train DID go with this box (given that catalogs rarely showed boxes and labels) Thanks so much! Ariel
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Re: Bing Box Set - Inquiry

Robert S. Butler ·
The box cover art on my box looks to be about the same size as yours (I cropped the picture to give a better view of the label). I suppose one could assume the floral border implies an earlier manufacturing date but it would only be an assumption. The book "Bing" by Claude Jeanmarie has excerpts from Bing catalogs which span 1886-1930. My reason for estimating an upper range of 1906 is because his sections from the 1908 catalog show engines with the same wheel arrangement on the locomotive...
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Re: Bing Box Set - Inquiry

Robert S. Butler ·
Here you are Catalog Illustration The train set Note: I think the original track consisted of a simple circle - the two straight pieces are obviously a later addition.
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Re: Bing Box Set - Inquiry

Elgaucho ·
Hi Robert, I've seen Bing straight (and curved) manual switches for engines breaking mechanism.. but this box does not have it. Do you have photos of your set? Would love to compare!
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Re: Bing Box Set - Inquiry

Robert S. Butler ·
I purchased the set about 15 years ago so I really don't have any idea of what it might cost today. The box size is 15" x 14" x 3". As for selling, I'm still in the trying-to-find phase of the collection cycle so nothing for sale.
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Re: Bing Box Set - Inquiry

Elgaucho ·
Wonderful set!! Your box does look much bigger (probably to fit that many cars) May I ask what you think a set like this is worth? Do you have any Bing engines yourself that you're in the market to sell?
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Re: Bing Box Set - Inquiry

Elgaucho ·
Hi Robert. Just curious, but would the inside of your box (and the separation panels) look something like this? (First image below) If not, would you know what pieces would actually go where in this box? Thank you! **This is another inside Bing Box image (not mine) but with different panel configuration:
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Identifying A Bing Set

Elgaucho ·
Hi everyone. I’ve had this set a while and always wondered what year-range this would have been from. Can’t find it in any catalogs. I do realize it's an american-market set though. Help?
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Re: Identifying A Bing Set

StevefromPA ·
The logo on the box, GBN with BW underneath, is one which Bing embossed on the bottom of the frame of its cars starting in 1919- so my guess is the set wasn't made prior to then. The loco kind of looks like this guy, which makes sense since it is apparently a "prototype for the American Market". Different number of spokes on the wheels but the pilots are the same. Source for loco pic: https://www.historytoy.com/bin...motive-black-gauge-0 Here's a list of Bing o-gauge clockworks(likely not...
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Re: Identifying A Bing Set

StevefromPA ·
@Elgaucho here is the link to all tbe Bing products listed on the site: https://www.historytoy.com/Bin...umbers-by-categories Also, this website has proven resourceful as well for identification, lists and shows embossed logos, litho'd logos, when they were used, etc...: https://www.canadiantoytrains....ademarks-for-ca-usa/
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Re: Identifying A Bing Set

StevefromPA ·
No problem my friend. There’s a piece I’ve been wanting to submit to them for awhile (Bing German Market Baggage Car 565/10 1931). I think when submitting they expect the person doing the submission to provide the proof that “this car is the unpictured one listed on our site due to reasons a, b, c, etc...” instead of them identifying for you, unfortunately.
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Re: Identifying A Bing Set

Jim O'C ·
a similar set was offered for the American market with the cast iron loco and 1012 tender
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Re: Identifying A Bing Set

Elgaucho ·
Thanks Steve! That link to history toy is informative. Maybe I should submit my set to them for their records. Maybe they'd be able to correctly identify it(?)
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Bing Clockwork Loco/Tender

Elgaucho ·
Hello. Looking to get leads on old Bing locos (like ones pictured below) Please forward me a line! Cheers! Ariel
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Re: Identifying A Bing Set

Elgaucho ·
Thanks StevefromPA. A well of information. Just wished the list included the photos directly beside the number. Sometimes looking at numbers you don’t know what they look like. And when there’s a ton of numbers, you need a lot of time to go one by one (ha!) Ariel
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Ives 1880's windup floor toy train Whistler ..for eyes and ears

Carey Williams ·
Hello all .... you might enjoy seeing an Ives Whistler in action ... check out link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yTuxyUK2_zI
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Re: Identifying A Bing Set

Arne ·
Hello Ariel, your set is the same like 509/154/00, but a later version. Bing has changed the numbers in the 20s. The first numbers says 11/... Germany, 61/... UK, 71/... USA. Arne
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Re: Ives 1880's windup floor toy train Whistler ..for eyes and ears

Tinplate Art ·
Now, THAT is an antique loco!
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Re: Marx windup seemingly low power, help!

wadsbrau ·
This all makes sense to me. I would have to buy some straights. Wouldn’t I have to disassemble the entire motor to service the regulator? I have suspected it binding but had not wanted to disassemble the motor due to the supports being punched. thank you
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Re: Marx windup seemingly low power, help!

wadsbrau ·
How many cars and how far should a loco in good shape pull?
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Re: Marx windup seemingly low power, help!

wadsbrau ·
I did clean and polish the axles. Made sure they were straight. Reassembled and oiled any friction points.
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Re: Marx windup seemingly low power, help!

Fatman ·
If you can get in there with some fine sandpaper or wet and dry ,I would give that a go maybe ? lightly does it as your aim is just to remove grime and corrosion rather than etch/scratch up the metal Oiling it or WD-40 or similar, running it , washing and repeat a few times will allow the brake pendulum to do the cleaning for you over time as well I would think ... Marx unfortunatley are not my forte , but running it will do more good than harm, check that the expanding brake moves freely...
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Re: Marx windup seemingly low power, help!

Steve "Papa" Eastman ·
You didn’t state what you have done with the cars. If you haven’t already, remove all the wheels and axles. Buff the axles to rid of any contamination. I also prefer to polish my wheels, but that’s me. Add a good drop of light weight oil on each axle end, then reassemble. Hopefully that will get you a few more laps. Steve
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Re: Marx windup seemingly low power, help!

Fatman ·
As no-one else has chimed in yet I will give it a go although I am by no means the most qualified here to answer It seems like you have done all you can to minimise friction , which is the #1 factor in dealing with clockwork locos. I would certainly expect a drop off in duration when you add more mass but your measuring looks a bit excessive still... Something to consider is the factor it is being tested on a pure circle and because of that you also have lateral friction in play , so it...
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Marx windup seemingly low power, help!

wadsbrau ·
I have had a Marx 833 in a box for 30 years with a loose driver. I Recently researched and got help on how to epoxy the wheel on. That worked great! Then another wheel came loose. Again I fixed it. I have ultrasonic cleaned the motor. Re-oiled every axel, gear teeth wheels etc. Even de-burred some gear teeth. Mostly from reading forums, watched videos etc. It will wind 14 half turns and just with the loco body attached laps a basic circle 13 times. Once picked up, flicking the wheels has it...
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Re: Marx windup seemingly low power, help!

WindupGuy ·
Just another note for reference: I happened to have a 473SM Marx set on my layout, which has a 401 windup, tender, gondola, boxcar and caboose, so a locomotive and 4 cars. On my mainline oval - O42 curves, plus 5 sections of straight track for the tangents - it ran a little more than 6 laps. Your O27 circle is a lot shorter run, but would have quite a bit more friction, but I would still expect your train to make a lot more laps than what it does...
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Re: Marx windup seemingly low power, help!

WindupGuy ·
The guys have given you a lot of good advice so far. You said that with 3 cars it will make 6 laps, and with 4 cars it will only make one lap of your circle. I assume this is O27? The number with 3 cars is a bit low; on this old video of my first trainset running, the loco with 3 cars made it about 7-1/2 laps: There is one quirky thing that can happen to Marx governors that will cause them to stop prematurely, especially under load. The die cast weight can deform over time, letting the end...
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Re: Marx windup seemingly low power, help!

wadsbrau ·
Thank you for the detailed reply. I will be trying everything suggested. Where is the best source of track I can get to test the radius and straights theory? Regarding the governor. At a few points around the shell, the little wire touches the sides. If it isn’t supposed to, it must be causing drag. What can I do to correct this issue? How much clearance should there be between the end of the little wire and the sides of the drum?
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Re: Marx windup seemingly low power, help!

WindupGuy ·
Regarding track, you can use any brand of O gauge track. I'm partial to the track Lionel makes (or made) with the small O27 rail profile in O42 and O54 diameter curves. The 3rd rail for the electric train won't cause any issues, but I remove it on my layout so that it has the appearance of the original windup train track. You can usually find it at well-stocked hobby shops, or eBay, or model railroad swap meets. Now, about the governor: I'm not sure if you have watched the governor in...
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Re: Marx windup seemingly low power, help!

wadsbrau ·
Thank you! Your reply was very helpful and concise. You have given me enough information to work on this issue. While I have your attention :-), the tender I have had at one point in it’s history had a coupler replaced with a plastic one. In it’s history also snapped in half. I would like to replace that with a proper tin coupler. Do you have any instructions on the best way to proceed? Removing the broken coupler and riveting a new one in its place.
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Re: Marx windup seemingly low power, help!

WindupGuy ·
It's almost that easy - drill out the old rivet, and rivet a new one in place. The body is removed by carefully bending the tabs on the bottom of the frame straight; and when you reassemble it, the tabs may be twisted slightly instead of crimped over at a 90 degree angle to keep them from breaking off. I like to fasten a drill bit in a vice, pointing straight up, place the rivet to be drilled on it, then use a hand drill with another drill bit chucked up in it to drill it out from the top.
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