They need AC for power, and a DC signal from the bell/whistle button on the transformer to trigger them. They should work above 12 volts. No on/off switch, just the bell/whistle button on the transformer. Larry
Larry, I hooked up the red wire to centre rail and the black to an outside rail. With track voltage cranked up to 100% (about 16 - 16.2 volts), then using the transformer whistle/horn button, I could get all 3 motors to spin but producing only a very feeble whistle sound. A tiny drop of oil to the motor spindles did not help. Anything you can think of to get more volume out of these whistles? thanks, Bob
I an using an MRC 130 watt transformer. (Bought it from a retired model railroader, so I don't know its age.) Tried various powers from 1/4 through to full. Barely any motor spin at low voltages with increasing, but not adequate whistling, at full. It's as if I need more voltage. Maybe I do need to bypass the gray resistor. It is labelled R31. It is soldered into the board. No idea how to bypass. Can you tell he how? Thanks to all, Bob
I didn't see Gunrunnerjohn's suggestion until now. My first try at using track power and the transformer was with plenty of lights in use. I removed various cars one by one to get a bit more voltage and there was an incremental improvement, but still too low a volume. If I simply blow gently into the bottom of the whistle, I get a great sound.
SUCCESS! Now whistling loud enough for my wife to hear upstairs. Thanks all. The pictorial description from Rob showing step-by-step how to remove the gray resistor and re-solder the leg was a great help. (This was my first ever post to the forum. I am impressed with the knowledge of members and the speedy replies.)
Flyer Rich, Actually there was never a record of any legal suit filed by Lionel. It seems it was a rummer started later. The real supposition is Gilbert quit making it because it was such a repair problem for service stations. Anyone......Please let me know the answer to my question? Thanks
I thought that rumor had been put to bed years ago. There was a post on this board about this many years ago (wish I could find it). detailing that there is no record of any litigation over this matter. I remember that Reggie Karnes showed a a copy of the Gilbert memo in his AF VHS video years, where it was explained that due to maintenance problems the item was being discontinued. Marshall Frisbie, Gilbert's chief engineer told me over lunch at the time that he had no recollection of any...
Just because Lionel never actually filed a lawsuit doesn't mean that is not why Gilbert dropped the whistle. A legal threat between lawyers would start the decision making to begin. According to A C Gilbert's Heritage book, it is noted that "the whistle was activated in a way that infringed on Lionel's patent and was dropped sometime in 1950". It may have been difficult to repair, but that is not a good reason to drop the best and most realistic whistle you have simply because some repair...
Depends on who wrote the article. Years ago I recall reading a series of interviews with Maury Romer. I am not saying he is the source on this rumor, I don't remember any details. I would like to find the articles and reread them.
Yes. Modern or Lionel-style whistle controller will activate a 314AW whistle. It's the same DC relay technology that Lionel used. 50 years ago, the story was that Lionel squawked about infringement. It might have been a conversation between company bigwigs that did the deed.
If you measure the DC voltage on the track (red meter wire to the center-rail, blk meter wire to the outer-rail), it should be very small DC voltage (less than 1 V). When you press the Horn/Whistle button, it should jump to several Volts positive as long as button is pressed. When you press the Bell button, it should jump to several Volts negative as long as button is pressed. This is how sound cards are controlled.
I don't have a CW-80 but I made this short video which shows what to expect. This is an MTH Z-750 controller which uses a similar transformer "technology" as the CW-80. The voltmeter is a low-cost, hobby-grade meter that you can get FREE (with coupon from Sunday newspaper) from Harbor Freight Tools. The point is to show that you don't need a fancy-dancy, professional-grade meter to make this measurement! In this case there is negligible (less than 0.1V) DC voltage when no button is pressed.
You "modified them with a sound card' of what type? Considering that, it almost doesn't matter what its in. I.d. sound issues by sound board and whatever is triggering it in the loco, another board, tach wheel, Reed switch, etc. Do the bells shut off at speed? No to low speed bells is prototypical in ways. This may be happening by design. Not a perfect design without an on/off, but I could easily see this being a feature in a low cost setup. Also try activating and holding the bell control...
The bells work just fine, both at idle and in motion. The problem is with the whistles. They activate just fine with engines at idle. But only occasionally, activate while in motion. I checked both track ovals with a multimeter and had proper readings. Next time, I'll try the light bulb trick. Thanks everyone for your input.
I am doing a memory check on activating the Gilbert 314AW tender whistle. I remember hearing that the Lionel transformer and the sound activation buttons used with American Flyer by Lionel engines will activate the 314AW whistle. Is this true? Thanks
I have a fairly simple setup; basically two loops powered by separate CW-80 Transformers. I have several engines with sound cards installed. The issue I have is the bells activate on all the engines whether they are running or idling. The whistles, on the other hand, only activate with the engines at idle; not when in motion. Exception: my cheap Pennsylvania Freight works almost all the time.
I have a streamlined tender that came with my 736. With the engine and tender operating on the track, everything is fine until I blow the whistle. Pushing the transformer whistle button, the whistle blows loud and strong. When I release the whistle button, the whistle keeps blowing loud and strong. If I kill the power to the track, the whistle shuts off (it should without power). I can then put power to the track and the engine will run and the whistle remain quiet, until the next time I...
I'm new to the forum and am seeking help in determining the power rating for the zw-167 resistor wire. I've determined that it's a 1.5 ohm resistor form the circuit diagram but can't determine the power rating. I just don't understand the circuit enough to apply ohm's law to determine the power rating . I was able to do the calculations on the lamp resistor wire easy enough to replace it with a 62 ohm 10 watt al housed wirewind resistor but I'm ready to admitt defeat on the other. Any help...
I have a 263W Lionel prewar tender and the whistle has been removed and is long gone. I would like to install a working whistle. The roller pickups are still there. Originally there was either a WS-80 or WS-37 “banana” whistle I believe. There is very little room in the tender. Does anyone know the correct whistle number that goes in the 263W and does someone know who might have a working whistle for sale??? Or is there a newer whistle that could be modified to fit the 263W?? Thanks You for...
A newer style air whistle will fit, but it has to be elevated on a special bracket so the bottom of the tender shell can slide on top of the frame. You could probably fabricate one; they are not common. If I recall, they are about 1/4"-3/8" tall.
I've worked with many Lionel whistles both prewar and postwar. I can find no differences, before they went to plastic cases in the 50's, except for the position of the mounting holes. I recently repaired a 390 tender that originally had a banana whistle using a postwar whistle. All I had to do to mount it was drill one hole in the tender frame. Electrically they are identical.
From the screw hole pattern, it originally had a banana whistle. You can use a common postwar whistle unit from a old coal tender the mounts vertically. But you will need to fabricate a bracket to raise the whistle to clear the round sides of the tender. Like Jon said.
yes I have seen that before the contact is probably sticking together because the contacts are pitted n corroded , you can polish rhe contacts with emery paper or something like that ,otherwise just replace the whistle relay and that will fix your problem Alan
The bottom plate on the relay might be magnetized. I've had that happen a number of times with different relays. First thing I'd try is to rap the frame of the relay with a small hammer. If that doesn't work, you can put a piece of Scotch tape on the bottom of the relay plate. If you center it right, the relay will still work, but the tape is enough to break the magnetism. Roger
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