I just received a mint NYC f3 aba diesel set off the web and in conventional I have a horn and diesel sound. But the prime mover would notch up when I tried to address it in command, even during reset attempts. So I opened them up and started wiggling wires and connectors also tapped lightly on the boards and worked the micro switches. Although visually nothing seemed to be out of place ( appeared never to have been open and no notiable wheel/ roller wear as advertised.) Back together,...
If you can't reset it to a 6, and you've tried re-seating the boards, then the last option is try to replacing the R2LC board in the dummy with one from another loco. That's likely the board that's causing the problem. TRW
Ok I removed,reinstalled 3 boards unfortunately no help. Whenever I place it (dummy A) on track and bring up power it's stuck in conventional and won't let me address it to re-ID or program. Last night while attempting to reset code 36, I got to #3 and it blew horn like it accepted just #3. Today stuck in conventional and won't release. Is their a trick to this to realign the gates in the chips? Or being built in 99 it caught the y2k bug. Really baffling. At one point I had crew talk. Still...
Yes, the one horn just missed the last process of hollowing out the bell. They were probably in a box of thousands and workers just grabbed a couple of them to install. Just overlooked and the installer probably didn't notice or care.
after looking at its worm gear I noticed one decorative horn on the shell is not drilled out. The patina on both horns are the same, and looking underneath there seems to be no evidence of tampering so I have no reason to believe it was replaced. Was this a flaw overlooked at the factory? Sorry, but to me, the tabs do not look like they were bent over in the factory. When those tabs are spread out to hold them onto the cab, they bent over fairly evenly. Each of the horns on your shell have...
Look at the backs of the horns, where they attach to the sheet metal bracket. does it look like a rolled clinch, or does it look like a solid piece of metal that was upset with a punch to make it stay in the hole? The original horns that I just checked have the rolled clinch, the reproductions have the punch mark.
My opinion I think the one is a replacement horn. I do not think with this diesel at the time it was made they would of been looking for ways to cut costs yet. Late fifties when they started to mold the ladders and grab irons to the body. That is when I would think the horns might be like that........Paul
One sure tell-tail sign if the horn has been replaced is the mounting pad inside the body. If it has and scrapes or scratches from the tabs being bent over. The bracket the horn mounts on is heavy metal and impossible to bend with needle nose pliers without scraping or gouging the plastic. Lionel used a special die and jig to bend the bracket tabs. Zach's is unblemished.
So after I reassembled my 2343 yesterday evening after looking at its worm gear I noticed one decorative horn on the shell is not drilled out. The patina on both horns are the same, and looking underneath there seems to be no evidence of tampering so I have no reason to believe it was replaced. Was this a flaw overlooked at the factory?
Weird issue, never had this problem on anything else. When running the "sound car" that goes with my three other powered Weaver GP38-2s, pressing the horn button rings the bell, and pressing the bell button blows the horn. Any idea why?
Agreed. The whistle/horn function is activated by applying a DC offset to the AC running your trains. This DC offset activated a relay to trigger the whistle/horn in older Lionel trains. The horn is activated by applying a DC offset of reversed polarity compared to the whistle/horn. I don't know if the offset is positive or negative for the whistle/horn or bell functions. You can easily figure this out with your digital multimeter.
A simple problem. The power wires to the car are reversed. Or reverse the wires to the track I can't find if you say anything about what the engines do. If they have horn/bell too then it's the car wires.
Glenn, I do not think the 9v DC will hurt the horns. It is nothing more then a vibrating coil. I am not curtain when the 9v DC battery appeared on the market, but I would think that if they were around when Lionel developed the F3 prior to the 1948 release of the 2333's Lionel would have used them instead of the 1.5v DC battery. This is just speculation on my part. Another advantage to the 9v DC battery is the corrosion problem. I can not recall ever seeing a 9v battery leak and cause a...
I had a battery mishap in my Lionel 2343. The battery wasn't real old but I discovered there was a small dent in the case which developed into a leak. Lesson learned: inspect new batteries carefully for physical damage. I took the entire loco apart to clean it up. Some day I'll make a battery-free horn circuit for it.
Vic, Good idea. I think any thing greater than 1.5v will make the horn work better. The 9v battery was a quick fix for me since I had the 9v battery connectors and a 9v battery on hand. The horn really has a nice high pitch sound now. Ouch ACE! At least you caught it before it ruined the engine. I guess back in the days when an F3 was put away after Christmas with a battery in it the owner would find their engine ruined months later. Thanks for sharing the pictures. Richard
Ron, i have not noticed any long term effects on the horn coil. I believe the original Lionel post war horns were essentially bicycle horns and they are quite durable. The metal horn bracket that carries the 1.5 v DC for the horn deteriorates over time. The 9 v DC battery solution bypasses the old metal horn bracket. I also believe that the 9v DC passes those 60+ year old horn relay contacts much easier than 1.5v DC Richard
Glenn, Consider converting the required D cell battery to a 9 volt battery. I connect the + wire on the battery connector to the horn relay connection that supplied power to the horn. Connect the - ground wire on the battery connector to the engine frame. Insert a 9 volt battery in the battery connector. The horn will work, and will have a louder sound. This solution will bi pass the corrosion problem. If the old post war horn is sluggish or still does not work you can zap the horn with 18v...
Does anyone have drawings for a circuit to replace the battery in a Lionel postwar diesel horn? I'm dealing with a unit that suffered severe battery corrosion. I've figured out how to put in a new battery holder but I was hoping that there might be a design out there for a circuit to replace the battery. I'm not a EE but I'm assuming that such a circuit would have a rectifier and a voltage limiter. Glenn
Hi Zack. Time to acquaint yourself with the ease of fixing a Lionel postwar horn. Just go online and google "Fix a postwar Lionel horn". It's easier than one thinks. Make sure you have a good set of fairly thin-bladed screwdrivers, a soldering gun (if you need it) w/flux and solder, a little extra wiring (again, if you need it) and a hand big enough to reach around back and pat yourself for learning how easy it is. You may also want to - carefully - adjust the unslotted screw on the horn...
Got the horn back together and it works great! Nothing seemed out of place or dirty, I still cleaned up the contact points and interior in general. It still has an occasional crackle but other than that it's back to normal!
I don't know what happened. The horn was working fine the other day and now it's comparable to nails on a chalkboard! I swapped out batteries but doing so had no effect. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Yep, something's not quite right.... I presume you're running conventional . To get the "sound car" working ,revering the transformer leads (or track) would correct the problem but..... Is this going to put the other Weaver GPs out of whack? Do they have sound?
Try to reverse the wires inside the sound car and not the track power wires. I have one Weaver engine (a C-630)and it is different then my other engines, so I recommend reversing the wires in the sound car and not the track. Lee Fritz
The 2332 makes noise by vibrating a plastic box. Your horn sounds like the plastic is cracked. Inspect the sound box for cracks. Especially the top where the brass rod attaches. The sound boxes are for sale on eBay all the time. Search for "Lionel 2332".
I know it doesn't help your immediate request for your 2332, but here's a clip of the real thing: FWIW, my GG1 horn sounds similar to yours. I think the idea of turning the small nut on top of the horn is the right approach. You're not going to get it to sound "good", but with a little experimentation, you may be able to get it to sound less bad. As someone noted, you're dealing with 1947 technology, not a modern digital recording... Have fun with it. Steven J. Serenska
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