I’m not a fan of the shiny trucks and couplers, but Steve posted a solution. It is definitely a better running loco than my first starter set loco, a Lionel single motor RS-3
Alright....who's gonna open up one of the trucks and see what the gears are made of???
Where's Alex M when we need him? lol!
@ajzend posted:Who is the targeted end user?
The broken red paint pattern over the grills would not even be noticed.
So, are we reviewing a kids toy, or an adult toy? Where’s the money at, and for what targeted user?Alan
If only the adults knew what they are talking about. The paint scheme is accurate as is, as Rusty Traque showed in a link earlier in this thread and as hobbyists such as myself have seen in many photos and models for years. (Which I think you already know, Alan, but many here apparently don’t).
The external gears are plastic, which are easy to see. My question is how do you remove the motor to see what the worm and internal gear look like? There is no screw under the truck to take out to remove the motor like we’re used to with Lionel and MTH.
Ron
There is a screw, it is a allen head. The motor worm gear is brass, the truck gear is plastic just like the external ones.
Kind of surprised M went with an F unit. I thought they would go with something like a NW2 dwitchet as a start.
Thanks Darrell for clearing that up. I looked at that "screw" and couldn't see the allen head clearly enough. Must be a combination of my not-the-best glasses and the glare from the shiny truck, although I thought that it did resemble an allen head. How well was the worm and internal gear lubricated?
Ron
@rrman posted:Does engine stay running or does it stop if no transmitter sending? Answering my own question, I would think it stays running until a new command sent.
If you run it and then turn off the remote, the loco stays running for about 1-2 seconds, then stops with a vengeance.
@Dominic Mazoch posted:Kind of surprised M went with an F unit. I thought they would go with something like a NW2 dwitchet as a start.
An F-unit gives more room inside to work with and you don't have to deal with platform railings.
Rusty
A couple more videos of mine. Pulling 6 medium weight passenger cars in 95 degree heat. The patio has a slope to it, but there was no speed changes as it encountered the minor elevation differences. Ran it for about 6 hours total. Also a short night video to show the headlight.
Steve
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@Darrell posted:There is a screw, it is a allen head. The motor worm gear is brass, the truck gear is plastic just like the external ones.
Was there adequate grease?
@RickO posted:Alright....who's gonna open up one of the trucks and see what the gears are made of???
Where's Alex M when we need him? lol!
Hi Rick,
I was going to purchase one , take it apart to see what’s inside. It sold out before I could do so lol.
Thanks, Alex
@RickO posted:Was there adequate grease?
Actually if the gear is delrin, no grease is required. If its nylon then grease won’t help. I am guessing the former.
Pete
@Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:A couple more videos of mine. Pulling 6 medium weight passenger cars in 95 degree heat. The patio has a slope to it, but there was no speed changes as it encountered the minor elevation differences. Ran it for about 6 hours total. Also a short night video to show the headlight.
Steve
Looks like the number board LED on the left side isn't aligned properly and it's creating a light spot on the shell. I'm not keen on how they lit the number boards on these with one LED behind. Makes for a very narrow beam.
Thanks for the video and report. Looks like Menard's, with a few adjustments, has a nice low end model.
Finally got around to unpacking mine last night. Very nice looking model. As previously mentioned the shiny trucks are not my favorite but they will grow on me eventually. The plastic clam shell packaging is solid but I would add a thin foam padding around the shell. Mine also has a few marks along the roof from the package.
I also had problems with the battery terminals in the remote. I use Duracell AAA's and the positive tip doesn't make contact with the terminal. I had to bend the terminals a bit to get good contact. It would also be good if the speed control had a center off stop on the pot. As I was testing the loco I rammed it into reverse several times.
I use a KW for power and at about 12-13v the loco was manageable on starts/stops. Better low speed at this voltage too. If sets are produced with a 16v wallwart there may be issues.
The headlight is nice and bright, I'm also not a fan of the number board lights but it's not a deal breaker for me either. I find the crew talk to be cringe inducing (same for the big mfrs), just my personal opinion. The prime mover sound is good, horn and bell could use some modification.
For the record, it will navigate 027 curves too!
Overall I give it a B+/A-. Certainly a solid debut for Menards. I'm sure they have other models in the works. I'd like to see more of the early diesel era, NW-2, RS-3, Geep's, along with some modern stuff. If they do a steamer then all the better.
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Here’s another short video clip, this time of the Menards locomotive pulling a consist of postwar Lionel aluminum passenger cars on the Milwaukee Lionel Railroad Club layout yesterday.
Some tech info: The MTH Z-4000 transformer was set at 10 volts and the remote throttle was aligned with the letter “F” (from the word “Forward”), giving it a nice slow speed setting around the curve.
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I didn't receive one of the 200 test samples, but in looking over the notes and watching the videos I'll suggest that getting flywheels in place so that the engine is able to coast would be a critical upgrade. If the intention is to get folks to pick up a locomotive at a very reasonable price for their kids to run, that screeching halt with younger children will lead to unhappiness (read derailments). As anecdotal evidence, I collect AMT/KMT F units from the 50s that stop dead in their tracks when power is cut - they can pull stumps due to their weight/traction tires, but there's zero coasting ability which frustrated my young son when he tried running them. We had a number of modern diesels with flywheels which enabled coasts to the stopping point when power was cut which he'd run successfully (and greatly reduced the number of derailed cars that inevitably piled up when running the non-coasting power). I'd also add that being able to run the engines conventionally would be a worthwhile addition - as it stands, it appears the engine won't move if the remote isn't used - broken remotes will lead to unhappy engineers if they can't run their engines at all.
Nice track. I always loved Lionel's or Menard's good old fashion tubular track. I found it to be very dependable. It worked for me for years.
@MTN posted:I'd also add that being able to run the engines conventionally would be a worthwhile addition - as it stands, it appears the engine won't move if the remote isn't used - broken remotes will lead to unhappy engineers if they can't run their engines at all.
True, adding a simple switch could bypass the electronics. However it would lock the engine in forward mode (or with more switch complexity, forward/reverse). If you want the "automatic" F,N,R,N then $$$ come in and we are moving into the low end Lionel et-al RTR sets, so that low price point begins to go away.
Nearly all who have expressed the desire for it to run conventional have the ability to modify this once purchased. Keeping the price low and the livery varied is definitely a win/win.
I am hoping that several run their locomotive hard and find out if the gears and motors hold up to prolonged and steady use. Whether a 7 year old or a 70 year old kid wants it to run, and run and run..........
@RON ARNDT 091718 posted:rrman - good question. I went down to my layout to give it a try. The engine will stay running with no commands given to it as long as the remote is turned on. I set my transformer to only a couple of volts and turned the remote off. The engine went about a quarter of the way around my layout and stopped dead. With the couple of volts on the track, the engine remained in neutral with lights and idle sounds. Tried this a few times with the same results. The engine has two large capacitors and I think that one of them retains the remote commands until it is depleted and shuts the engine down. Just a guess on my part.
Ron
Thanks Ron for the answer (now I can sleep tonight with this burning question answered! 
) So speculating the remote periodically pings the loco with the speed command. If no ping after X seconds then loco stops.
The brass worm gear has a coat of grease, the plastic gears do not. The gears appear to me to be made of delrin.
I picked up my copy of the Menards Engine yesterday and was NOT disappointed.
The trucks are just fine the way they are as it adds a bit of class to a stagnate old model everyone is accustomed to. Keep in mind this a toy and not a precision model. It is also geared to the general public. Also the level of detail in the trucks is very well done from my perspective.
The horn could be better and a slight packaging adjustment of the plastic form in which the model rests would eliminate the rub mark on top of the engine.
Personally I'm not a fan of any crew talk no matter who the manufacturer is. I find it annoying actually. It would be different if the operator of the engine had to communicate with the dispatcher directly. Then there would be some actual interaction in running the model.
Running the model is similar to what others have noted, but using the trick of moving the command dial to forward and then throttling up allowed for a much smoother start.
Pulling power excellent.
Paint application and color is excellent as it is typically with all of Menards models nice and crisp.
I give them an A++ for effort and an A for the model - keeping in mind this is their first powered model ever and that it was a beta version.
Not even your big manufactures who have been solely in the model train business for decades can consistently deliver models that meet or exceed expectations be it graphics, scale, power, pricing, features, etc.
Menards is essentially a lumber / hardware company that is only dabbling in the model train market. My hat goes off to them for a job well done given they do not have a model Train R&D department working full time to deliver model train related products that they do.
- Speed control needs improvement.
- Horn needs improvement--if one push of button triggers, can it at least trigger a 4 second blast?
- Gears really should be metal.
Bravo, Menards! You can make these upgrades, add to the retail cost and this would still be a bargain.
After some experience with running this engine, I am curious as to why some are putting 16+ volts to the track. This engine is not TMCC or DCS, but more like conventional Williams, Weaver, Custom Trains, and many Lionel engines. These conventional engines begin operation at about 3 volts. For the Menatds engine, I turn on the remote in neutral and turn the transformer on that the lights on my switch controls just light up. This gives the engine its lights and start up sounds and any preliminary crew talk that you may desire. Put the remote at the F in Forward for a relatively smooth start. I then move the transformer up to 5 volts to increase speed and leave it there. Then turning the remote about half way gives you about 30 scale miles per hour. Turning the remote all the way up gives you about 90 scale miles per hour, much more than one needs. Plus you can still go up to 18 volts on the transformer. I can only imagine what would happen then! The motors in this engine are truly very responsive. To stop the engine, I simply make sure the remote is at the F position and turn down the transformer until the engine stops, again relatively smoothly. Lots of extra motions, which I'm sure Menards will correct with our input, but that's half the fun in running this engine knowing it will mean more good things to come as Menards moves into engine production.
Ron
@RON ARNDT 091718 posted:After some experience with running this engine, I am curious as to why some are putting 16+ volts to the track. This engine is not TMCC or DCS, but more like conventional Williams, Weaver, Custom Trains, and many Lionel engines. These conventional engines begin operation at about 3 volts. For the Menatds engine, I turn on the remote in neutral and turn the transformer on that the lights on my switch controls just light up. This gives the engine its lights and start up sounds and any preliminary crew talk that you may desire. Put the remote at the F in Forward for a relatively smooth start. I then move the transformer up to 5 volts to increase speed and leave it there. Then turning the remote about half way gives you about 30 scale miles per hour. Turning the remote all the way up gives you about 90 scale miles per hour, much more than one needs. Plus you can still go up to 18 volts on the transformer. I can only imagine what would happen then! The motors in this engine are truly very responsive. To stop the engine, I simply make sure the remote is at the F position and turn down the transformer until the engine stops, again relatively smoothly. Lots of extra motions, which I'm sure Menards will correct with our input, but that's half the fun in running this engine knowing it will mean more good things to come as Menards moves into engine production.
Ron
Good point Ron. I was wondering why 18V. Lucky the designers took the 18+V into account, otherwise there would/could have been a fire in the loco engine room!. Obviously, Menards could have included a paper saying for best performance set transformer to X volts. I am sure Menards Mark has read this forum threads to realize most of us operate TMCC and/or DCS with 18V tracks. But I presume much.
Why a nominal 18 VAC? Because that is the de facto standard we expect from all non-conventional three rail O gauge items. Why would it be anything else but that, especially since there's no manual or documentation that states otherwise?
I firmly believe Menards should follow the conventions that are pre-existing wherever possible and where there is no substantial benefit to deviate.
@rrman posted:Obviously, Menards could have included a paper saying for best performance set transformer to X volts. I am sure Menards Mark has read this forum threads to realize most of us operate TMCC and/or DCS with 18V tracks. But I presume much.
That was one of my suggestions to Menards, as well. I think we all defaulted to 18 volts based on our experiences with TMCC, LionChief and DCS.
By trial and error, some forum members figured out that you could turn the transformer throttle down to as little as 3 volts. A recommended voltage setting would be welcomed, as well any cautions about what the maximums and minimums should be.
@RON ARNDT 091718 posted:After some experience with running this engine, I am curious as to why some are putting 16+ volts to the track. This engine is not TMCC or DCS, but more like conventional Williams, Weaver, Custom Trains, and many Lionel engines. These conventional engines begin operation at about 3 volts. For the Menatds engine, I turn on the remote in neutral and turn the transformer on that the lights on my switch controls just light up. This gives the engine its lights and start up sounds and any preliminary crew talk that you may desire. Put the remote at the F in Forward for a relatively smooth start. I then move the transformer up to 5 volts to increase speed and leave it there. Then turning the remote about half way gives you about 30 scale miles per hour. Turning the remote all the way up gives you about 90 scale miles per hour, much more than one needs. Plus you can still go up to 18 volts on the transformer. I can only imagine what would happen then! The motors in this engine are truly very responsive. To stop the engine, I simply make sure the remote is at the F position and turn down the transformer until the engine stops, again relatively smoothly. Lots of extra motions, which I'm sure Menards will correct with our input, but that's half the fun in running this engine knowing it will mean more good things to come as Menards moves into engine production.
Ron
And how about those command layouts that operate solely through a brick that can only output 18v. There are quite a number of us who don't use traditional transformers that allow you to vary the voltage.
I guess 18 volt would be needed if you run the engine on the same track with legacy or DCS engines. If on a separate loop then by all means do as you’ve stated. Good info.
Good point for those not using variable output transformers. I use two GW-180's, and a Z-1000 to run my trains, plus other transformers for accessories. The best of both worlds under the circumstances. Boy, that must really be an abrupt start and stop when only using bricks. I still occasionally have derailments when I goof up using my conservative procedures.
Ron
@Craftech posted:1. Turned up the track voltage on my tubular track layout (measured with an AC voltmeter) with KW throttle till it read 18v center to outside rail.
2. Placed engine on track and plugged in KW. Engine started.
3. Turned on remote. Light came on, sound level adjusted with remote volume control.
4. Moved forward no problem, ran a few feet, and then it tripped the circuit breaker I have in line with rails. The breaker is rated at 7.5A (Sensata breaker).
5. Disconnected everything except power to a single lockon. Same thing after a few feet.
6. Turned voltage down to around 16v. Tripped the breaker after short run again.
7. Connected different accessory terminals to track, but I could not get a reading on my voltmeter at the track so I was afraid to try the engine that way. I have never connected the accessory terminals to the track before anyway.
8. Next step is to make a circle with some Menards tubular track, connect power to it, and try it again. If that doesn't work I will get an 18v DC power supply and try that on my tubular track. Positive to center rail, negative to one of the outside rails.\
John
@rrman replied:
"I suspect a momentary short that happens when engine moves. Check wires to the trucks for abrasions or missing heat shrink tubing. Or a pickup rollers are unevenly round or holder warpped and touching the truck frame."
I didn't listen to him so I set up a Menards circle with O Gauge track instead of using my 027 layout and it ran flawlessly. Thinking there must be a short in my 027 layout I tore the entire thing apart and tested each section of tubular track and the Marx switches. Couldn't find the short.
So I set up lengths of 027 track and tested it a little at a time as I added track and it shorted after I set up around 3 feet of track.
So I put a 30" section of 027 against the bottom of the Menards engine and flipped the sandwich upside down and lo and behold one of the spring loaded coupler screws (phillips) was touching the center rail. It came from the factory not screwed in all the way. Screwed it in and it ran flawlessly. Apparently regular O Gauge track elevated the truck enough that the screw didn't touch the center rail. Dropped down on 027 it touched.
Oh well, I wanted to tear my layout apart anyway so this was a good excuse.
Sorry @rrman - you were right.
John
EDIT: I have been following the other posts and am not using 18v. Much lower.
@Craftech posted:@rrman replied:
"I suspect a momentary short that happens when engine moves. Check wires to the trucks for abrasions or missing heat shrink tubing. Or a pickup rollers are unevenly round or holder warpped and touching the truck frame."
I didn't listen to him so I set up a Menards circle with O Gauge track instead of using my 027 layout and it ran flawlessly. Thinking there must be a short in my 027 layout I tore the entire thing apart and tested each section of tubular track and the Marx switches. Couldn't find the short.
So I set up lengths of 027 track and tested it a little at a time as I added track and it shorted after I set up around 3 feet of track.
So I put a 30" section of 027 against the bottom of the Menards engine and flipped the sandwich upside down and lo and behold one of the spring loaded coupler screws (phillips) was touching the center rail. It came from the factory not screwed in all the way. Screwed it in and it ran flawlessly. Apparently regular O Gauge track elevated the truck enough that the screw didn't touch the center rail. Dropped down on 027 it touched.
Oh well, I wanted to tear my layout apart anyway so this was a good excuse.
Sorry @rrman - you were right.
John
Thanks John. Nice to know my brain's candle flame still flickers once in awhile!! 
@Trinity River Bottoms Boomer posted:Steve "Papa" Eastman: I've been reluctant to post anything here since this thread was set up for the lucky model railroaders who obtained one of the 200 initial Menards Santa Fe "FP7" Diesel locomotives so the model can be fully tested and send Menards the feedback they want in order to work out any issues and move forward with this new Nice Price product before beginning mass production.
I am impressed with your video presentation and the running quality of your F unit with the set of passenger cars. I'm not into keeping track of the manufacturers passenger cars that are being made but the Menards F unit in Santa Fe classic Warbonnet and the passenger car consist sure reminds me of Athearn HO ca. 1959. Old heads will remember Athearn and their affordable line of nicely detailed generic products in the Yellow Box which included a Santa Fe Warbonnet F7 (albeit powered by their Hi-F (rubber band) drive and streamlined passenger cars that look a lot like the ones you are running with your Menards F unit. For me, a blast from the past, even though the train is O gauge instead of HO.
Regardless, your video took me on a trip back down my right-of-way of memories as a teenage train nut who passed milepost thirteen on July 4, 1959. No birthday cake, candles, not even a el cheapo Athearn box car kit b-day gift. My step-dad had just relocated the family from Texas to Florida and he was unemployed at the time. Frank Sanatra sang it best: "That's Life!"
That said, thank you for sharing your video with all members who are lucky to be part of the O Gauge Railroading gang!
Joe
Thanks Joe. This has been a fun project.
Steve
Just a quick note on my experience so far. I got my loco delivered to my home this past Thursday. I opened it up immediately. Putting it on the powered track and lights and sound work. So I opened up the remote to put the 3 AAA batteries in and found no evidence of the negative battery clips ever being installed. Remote is useless without negative battery terminals. So I sent an e-mail to the e-mail address in the original post in this topic that we were asked to send feedback to. I also sent a similar private forum message to Mark. I included my personal e-mail address and phone number. No response so I followed the returns link in the e-mail receipt from Menard’s. It took me to a web page where I had to fill out a contact form. I filled out the form and got a confirmation from the web site that my request was received. No response from that either. Can you only do a return to Menard’s at a store? Not going to drive 1000 miles to return this. It would be nice if I could get a replacement remote but if not possible at least a return RMA.No such luck. I’ll give it a week and if nothing I’ll call my credit card company. So unfortunately my experience so far hasn’t been as positive as others.
@ChooChoo1972 posted:Just a quick note on my experience so far. I got my loco delivered to my home this past Thursday. I opened it up immediately. Putting it on the powered track and lights and sound work. So I opened up the remote to put the 3 AAA batteries in and found no evidence of the negative battery clips ever being installed. Remote is useless without negative battery terminals. So I sent an e-mail to the e-mail address in the original post in this topic that we were asked to send feedback to. I also sent a similar private forum message to Mark. I included my personal e-mail address and phone number. No response so I followed the returns link in the e-mail receipt from Menard’s. It took me to a web page where I had to fill out a contact form. I filled out the form and got a confirmation from the web site that my request was received. No response from that either. Can you only do a return to Menard’s at a store? Not going to drive 1000 miles to return this. It would be nice if I could get a replacement remote but if not possible at least a return RMA.No such luck. I’ll give it a week and if nothing I’ll call my credit card company. So unfortunately my experience so far hasn’t been as positive as others.
If they can't replace the remote and you still want to keep it here is another alternative:
https://www.amazon.com/Youlian...626784844&sr=8-6
John
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That's at least two remotes without terminals. No quick fix for this. Imagine the reaction of child opening a Christmas present to find this beautiful engine only to find it non operational due to a faulty controller. That's the best reason for a conventional-remote switch.
Also I find the scuff marks on the roof odd. Could they be the result off a chemical reaction between the paint and the Styrofoam packaging, or could the paint not be fully cured when packaged?
@coach joe posted:That's at least two remotes without terminals. No quick fix for this. Imagine the reaction of child opening a Christmas present to find this beautiful engine only to find it non operational due to a faulty controller. That's the best reason for a conventional-remote switch.
Also I find the scuff marks on the roof odd. Could they be the result off a chemical reaction between the paint and the Styrofoam packaging, or could the paint not be fully cured when packaged?
Assuming they already have something in conventional.
The scuffing is from friction. Even in the molded blister packaging, the model can shift a bit in transit. Plus the layer of paint isn't all that thick.
That's why some companies wrap the model in a thin barrier material to mitigate the issue and make it easier to remove from the packaging.
Rusty
@coach joe posted:Also I find the scuff marks on the roof odd. Could they be the result off a chemical reaction between the paint and the Styrofoam packaging, or could the paint not be fully cured when packaged?
That's what I think since everyone has the scuff marks. I put it in and out of the packaging every day and it doesn't scuff. Probably a production deadline they had to meet at the plant.
John
@coach joe posted:That's at least two remotes without terminals. No quick fix for this. Imagine the reaction of child opening a Christmas present to find this beautiful engine only to find it non operational due to a faulty controller. That's the best reason for a conventional-remote switch.
Also I find the scuff marks on the roof odd. Could they be the result off a chemical reaction between the paint and the Styrofoam packaging, or could the paint not be fully cured when packaged?
Joe, I was thinking the same thing about the kid on Christmas morning. In the other case of the person who didn't have the negative terminals installed do you know if Menards ever got back to them? So far I have received nothing but radio silence.
