Sorry Guys, but I'm a little lost here.
Does this run conventional as well as remote, or is it remote only?
Thx,
Mannyrock
Unfortunarely, @Mannyrock, this edition does not run conventionally; the remote is the only way to operate it. I think Menards fell short by not having it be fully functional in a conventional mode as well:
*Speed varies with AC voltage
*Power break cycles direction F-N-R-N
*DC offsets activate whistle/horn and bell
Optionally:
*Patterned DC offsets activate crew talk
@Craftech posted:If they can't replace the remote and you still want to keep it here is another alternative:
https://www.amazon.com/Youlian...626784844&sr=8-6
John
John, thanks, after I posted that I realized that I meant to say that the positive contacts are missing. Anyway the other thought I had was to cut the leads in the remote and bring them out to an external 4.5 volt battery box. Would make the remote bulkier to hold but would work. However, so far Menards isn't getting good grades for standing behind their sales. thanks
Conventional operation with the transformer lever is the one form of control by which every 3-rail, O gauge locomotive, can be run - as far as I know. In my opinion, any new manufacturer would be wise to provide that capability in addition to any proprietary system that they may have.
MELGAR
Obviously little quality control or checking in china (small c). Probably test ran all engines using one remote, rather than testing engine with the remote it would go with as a set. If it was done that way, then the bad remote would be obvious, but that takes time to insert, test all functions (stuck/inoperative buttons, no transmissions, dead battery), and remove batteries (time is $$).
So that old saw, "ya all got what ya paid for" 
If I was able to obtain this locomotive in the deal, I would of probably by now removed their electronics an I would of converted it to TMCC. If anyone with a bad remote wants to sell their locomotive I would be interested in a project......
I know it's a long shot...but if anybody has buyers remorse or is unhappy with it,I'll be glad to take it....thanks...joe
My remote does not work. Tried bending the contact plates to make sure they contact the batteries and the remote won't turn on. I checked the batteries and they have a full charge. My engine also has the scuff marks on the top as described by others. Definitely should be a switch for conventional operation. The packaging is also not secure enough. Mine arrived from the USPS with tears/gouges in the cardboard box but thankfully it didn't extend in to the plastic clam shell holding the engine. Menards has some work to do before trying another run of these engines. Back to Menards it will go. What a bummer.
Neal Jeter
@Lionlman posted:My remote does not work. Tried bending the contact plates to make sure they contact the batteries and the remote won't turn on. I checked the batteries and they have a full charge. My engine also has the scuff marks on the top as described by others. Definitely should be a switch for conventional operation. The packaging is also not secure enough. Mine arrived from the USPS with tears/gouges in the cardboard box but thankfully it didn't extend in to the plastic clam shell holding the engine. Menards has some work to do before trying another run of these engines. Back to Menards it will go. What a bummer.
Neal Jeter
Hello Neal,
When you say "The packaging is also not secure enough." what do you mean?
The box is a standard cardboard box which houses a clam shell insert that is surrounded by Styrofoam all along the top and bottom edges.
I'm not sure how Menards can guard against the USPS from damaging the exterior box during shipment.
I've had deliveries from them without issue using the same type of cardboard box.
With respect to the remote, does the red light on it come on at all?
Hopefully Menards will certainly address the non conventional mode. Seems that’s a major issue. Even if they don’t it’s still a winner.
@MELGAR posted:Conventional operation with the transformer lever is the one form of control by which every 3-rail, O gauge locomotive, can be run - as far as I know. In my opinion, any new manufacturer would be wise to provide that capability in addition to any proprietary system that they may have.
MELGAR
Incorrect. Lionel’s LionChief starter sets depended strictly on the remotes, just like this Menards locomotive. LionChief Plus locomotives had the option to switch between remote or transformer control.
But I agree with your view. I didn’t like the basic LionChief models, for that reason, and think Menards should address the design as well.
The red light does not come on. In my opinion the cardboard box is not sturdy enough to handle shipping.
Neal
Just finished testing my copy.
Over all a well deserved “ A “.
Comments sent to Ray @ Menards as requested.
@Lionlman posted:The red light does not come on. In my opinion the cardboard box is not sturdy enough to handle shipping.
Neal
Hello Neal,
1. You noted that the batteries are charged - that's good.
2. Is there any corrosion on any of the terminals or contacts?
3. Have you tried a different set of batteries?
4. You are certain that the contacts are touching the battery?
5. If you answered yes to 2-4 of the above, you may need to open the remote to see if the wiring to the contacts are secure. Could be a poor soldering job or broken wire at the joint. Check the red and black leads.
Parent photo posted earlier by Craftech.
Hope this helps!
Attachments
Images (1)
As a FYI if you missed out there are now some on the big auction site with a $299 starting bid.......
@Allegheny posted:Hello Neal,
1. You noted that the batteries are charged - that's good.
2. Is there any corrosion on any of the terminals or contacts?
3. Have you tried a different set of batteries?
4. You are certain that the contacts are touching the battery?
5. If you answered yes to 2-4 of the above, you may need to open the remote to see if the wiring to the contacts are secure. Could be a poor soldering job or broken wire at the joint. Check the red and black leads.
Parent photo posted earlier by Craftech.
Hope this helps!
If you have a DC voltmeter (or multimeter), put some batteries in it and put it in DC volts mode and check for 3 volts at those two terminals.
But I thought you said you were missing a battery clip on the other side??
John
@Lou1985 posted:As a FYI if you missed out there are now some on the big auction site with a $299 starting bid.......
always someone looking to make a BIG profit.....
@joe krasko posted:always someone looking to make a BIG profit.....
nothing wrong with that.
Neal, you said thatyours is going back to Menard's. Who did you contact to a get a RMA for it? I have ran into a dead end.
John:
Thank you for all your suggestions. I took the remote apart and the wires were correctly attached to the terminal plates. The batteries I used read about 1.47 volts which I thought would be good. When I tried some absolutely brand new batteries that read 1.53 volts, the remote came on. There is definitely an issue with the contact plates in the battery compartment as I had to manipulate the batteries and the contact plates to get the remote to turn on. I tried it again with the 1.47 volt batteries and the remote would not come on. The voltmeter was reading over 4.5 volts on the terminals with 1.53 volt batteries but nothing with the 1.47 volt batteries. I'll try it later to see if it will now control the engine.
Neal
Frank:
I just started the process to return it this morning. I've had to return other train items before to Menards but it does take a couple of days before you'll get an answer. It would be nice to be able to speak to someone by phone but email is the way Menards has chosen to handle customer service.
Neal
@Lionlman posted:Frank:
I just started the process to return it this morning. I've had to return other train items before to Menards but it does take a couple of days before you'll get an answer. It would be nice to be able to speak to someone by phone but email is the way Menards has chosen to handle customer service.
Neal
This is one of the major short comings I have with Menards is that you can't give them a call when you have an issue.
I had a minor shipping issue and it was not possible to contact customer service to help clear up the matter.
However, once you get their attention via email, they are right on it and will try their best to rectify the situation.
I've asked store managers to pass along my suggestion as they really need a customer assistance call center.
@EscapeRocks posted:nothing wrong with that.
if you say so....
I found it. $299.99 but with FREE SHIPPING!!!! I wonder if he tested the remote? Last week I posted that it was just a matter of time before one of these popped up. We will probably see more of them. With only 200 make, this is what I expected. This is the way the free market works.
All I can say is, . . . Oh Geez.
They should'a started with the simple conventional control first. And then, when all of the mechanics were ironed out, proceeded to offer an upgraded model with remote control. I think people would have glad to pay $25 to $50 more, if the thing worked.
The most brilliantly designed electrical plans are irrelevant, if you have super cheap parts and assembly procedures.
I really hope they work all of this out, because I would sure like to have one.
But, I do applaud them, for trying something new!
(Just hope this will not be the Ford Pinto of locomotives.)
Mannyrock
While we didn’t sign a contract to test and respond to these, I would be disappointed in people who sold them before doing so. If they checked it out, reported any issues, then I have no issue with them moving them on. This is just me, no one else has to live by my standards.
Steve
@Dick S posted:I found it. $299.99 but with FREE SHIPPING!!!! I wonder if he tested the remote? Last week I posted that it was just a matter of time before one of these popped up. We will probably see more of them. With only 200 make, this is what I expected. This is the way the free market works.
FWIW .Seller has 100% feedback rating and is offering 60 day returns, albiet the buyer pays the return shipping.
Steve,
I agree with you wholeheartedly!
Ron
@Mannyrock posted:(Just hope this will not be the Ford Pinto of locomotives.)
Mannyrock
Or the Ford Edsel (horseshoe grille)?
@RON ARNDT 091718 posted:Steve,
I agree with you wholeheartedly!
Ron
I contacted the seller and asked if it had been tested. He said no, it’s NIB. I then told him many did not work out of the box and require some fiddling. Up to him what he does about it.
Steve
@Lionlman posted:John:
Thank you for all your suggestions. I took the remote apart and the wires were correctly attached to the terminal plates. The batteries I used read about 1.47 volts which I thought would be good. When I tried some absolutely brand new batteries that read 1.53 volts, the remote came on. There is definitely an issue with the contact plates in the battery compartment as I had to manipulate the batteries and the contact plates to get the remote to turn on. I tried it again with the 1.47 volt batteries and the remote would not come on. The voltmeter was reading over 4.5 volts on the terminals with 1.53 volt batteries but nothing with the 1.47 volt batteries. I'll try it later to see if it will now control the engine.
Neal
So if all the contacts are there and not missing what people have been doing is sticking a small flat head screwdriver behind the terminal clip and wiggling it from side to side to bow out the center of the clip so it reaches the positive electrode on the battery.
Also worth noting that SOME batteries have a smaller positive tip than others. If you are using something like Duracell, that shouldn't be a problem and if you bow out the terminal any of them should touch.
In terms of voltage requirements I am not sure why 1.47v should not work. Hopefully the engine works now. I would keep it if it works and wait for some people to come up with new hacks.
John
Before this veers too far off:
The entire purpose of this exercise by Mark and Menard's is for the 200 who got one to find all the things that are being found that need attention, and to let them know via that specific email address. I think the hyperbole; "think of the kid opening this on Christmas", etc in the context of what they're trying to do is a bit much. They want to know what is broken or needs more attention.
I applaud their efforts on this.
@EscapeRocks posted:Before this veers too far off:
The entire purpose of this exercise by Mark and Menard's is for the 200 who got one to find all the things that are being found that need attention, and to let them know via that specific email address. I think the hyperbole; "think of the kid opening this on Christmas", etc in the context of what they're trying to do is a bit much. They want to know what is broken or needs more attention.
I applaud their efforts on this.
Exactly .... this was a beta test run of a mere 200 units to find out what works and what doesn't and report back to the manufacturer.
"This limited edition is our first locomotive, and we want to know your opinion of the model's appearance, functionality, reliability, performance, value, and most of all, did you have fun running it? This will help guide us in the future.
Please email your thoughts and feedback to Ray at Guest@menard-inc.com
Remember, the purpose of this test run is to gather feedback."
This was not intended to be a normal retailer-to-consumer transaction and I find it disturbing that some people are measuring it as such, let alone reselling it on the open market. Let's say some one on the 'net buys that $299 engine and has a problem with it. Even though they may be able to get their money back, they are now turned off to Menard's and their products - not an outcome they intended.
My suggestion to Menard's for future events like this is to clearly imprint the model with language that it is for testing purposes with a limited production run and not intended for commercial resale.
Right on point, Richie. It is sad that this person had no intention of performing the service that Menards is seeking. He never opened the box. He wants to resell it and turn of nice profit. Quite frankly, I am not surprised. I expected that someone would do it with only 200 pieces made. A sad situation.
@Dick S posted:Right on point, Richie. It is sad that this person had no intention of performing the service that Menards is seeking. He never opened the box. He wants to resell it and turn of nice profit. Quite frankly, I am not surprised. I expected that someone would do it with only 200 pieces made. A sad situation.
Agreed. If that's an example of the "free market" you can keep it.
John
@Craftech posted:So if all the contacts are there and not missing what people have been doing is sticking a small flat head screwdriver behind the terminal clip and wiggling it from side to side to bow out the center of the clip so it reaches the positive electrode on the battery.
Also worth noting that SOME batteries have a smaller positive tip than others. If you are using something like Duracell, that shouldn't be a problem and if you bow out the terminal any of them should touch.
In terms of voltage requirements I am not sure why 1.47v should not work. Hopefully the engine works now. I would keep it if it works and wait for some people to come up with new hacks.
John
I am using Duracell's and had to bend the terminals to make good contact.
A few more comments about Menards Santa Fe as I try different operating modes with it.
Today I ran it on my 4 X 8 test layout powered by a CW-80. I ran it with 5 heavily weighted box cars and a caboose. I use the extra weight to allow for using extra voltage to the track, which makes my small Lionel 4-4-2 smoke better.
With the remote set to the W in Forward, I was able to start out and stop the engine using the transformer with a normal smoothness and no abrupt starts or stops. Almost like running any conventional engine. The extra weight is certainly a factor in smooth operation.
I then ran it on my regular layout with 10 MTH cars and a caboose, using a GW-180. With the remote set to F in Forward and using the transformer handle for control, I was back to less smooth starts and stops.
As a side note, when running in reverse with low lighting, the almost red number board lights resemble "taillights" on the train, complete with an orange glow through the headlight. Anyone for red number board bulbs?? Just kidding !
Ron
@RSJB18 posted:I am using Duracell's and had to bend the terminals to make good contact.
I did too to make good contact, but there are some AAA batteries that have even shorter + ends than Duracell or Energizer. I was wondering if that may have been part of his problem even after bowing the terminals outward.
John
@EscapeRocks posted:Before this veers too far off:
The entire purpose of this exercise by Mark and Menard's is for the 200 who got one to find all the things that are being found that need attention, and to let them know via that specific email address. I think the hyperbole; "think of the kid opening this on Christmas", etc in the context of what they're trying to do is a bit much. They want to know what is broken or needs more attention.
I applaud their efforts on this.
Though a technical analysis of the engine is probably the main focus of this beta engine knowing its marketability is critical to their business plan.
Alan
