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gunrunnerjohn posted:

I have the Trackman 2000 and the Northeast Trains model.  The Northeast Trains model is more attractive, but for cleaning power, I like the Trackman 2000.  So, it's a choice, appearance or cleaning power.

FWIW, you can put any desired pad on the Northeast Trains car, mine has felt pads.

GRJ - what cleaning solution, if any, do you put on either car when you run them ?

I use the original Lionel 3927 modified with a Scothbrite pad cut to substitute the round foam pad. I cut a paper towel and put a several wraps around the rear track wipe to pick up the dirt. The towel saves on replacing track wipes. Put alcohol on the Scothbrite, run it till the towel is dirty then peel a wrap off and do it again. I usually pull it with a TMCC or DCS engine for better speed control over the cleaning process.  If the track is too dirty may have to use a postwar engine until track is clean enough for one of the others to run.

Funny thing, I have the Lionel 3927 that I hacked to put a Scotchbrite pad on as well.  I also added a diode to slow the motor down, at 18V, the thing was about to fly!

I've never had the track dirty enough that one of the Legacy locomotives with four rollers can't pull the track cleaner, but I suppose it could happen.

My favorite of my track cleaners is still the Trackman 2000, it's a simple yet elegant design that works really well.

 I have a CMX from Tony’s Train Exchange. Got a good deal on one at York a few years ago. Made of brass. Very heavy and very expensive. At close to $300. Mine came with Atlas Trucks.  Extremely well made. Dispenses your choice of cleaner from it’s tank onto a pad. One pad is wet followed with a dry one.Tracks the layout well and does a good job. Easy to replace pads. I have the Northeast Trains as well as a Centerline. The CMX is my go to when guests are coming over and you want no issues with dirty track.

I have the Trackman 2000 and the Northeast Trains model.  The Northeast Trains model is more attractive, but for cleaning power, I like the Trackman 2000.  So, it's a choice, appearance or cleaning power.

FWIW, you can put any desired pad on the Northeast Trains car, mine has felt pads.

John. Can you share. With me where I can purchase the Trackman 2000? Or any other goto track cleaning car.

@Dave_C posted:

I have a CMX from Tony’s Train Exchange. Got a good deal on one at York a few years ago. Made of brass. Very heavy and very expensive. At close to $300. Mine came with Atlas Trucks.  Extremely well made. Dispenses your choice of cleaner from it’s tank onto a pad. One pad is wet followed with a dry one.Tracks the layout well and does a good job. Easy to replace pads. I have the Northeast Trains as well as a Centerline. The CMX is my go to when guests are coming over and you want no issues with dirty track.

I agree. I use acetone in mine and have NEVER had a problem and usually cleans in one pass. This is the ONLY CAR that you can use Acetone in. I have two other cars and am not impressed. You want it done right this is the  car to buy!

Curtis

@Tom Stoltz posted:

Though it's not 3 rail, cleaning track is cleaning track and so you might find this thread from Model Railroad Hobbyist interesting:

https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/146?page=1

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

Someone did a chemical analysis and the conclusion was that alcohol wasn't an optimum cleaning solution, and it caused the issues described in that post.

It is somewhat confusing to me that the train manufacturers do not have and promote a class cleaning car. Tom have you tried the metal cleaner on your layout.? What i did read there if not mistaken was it leaves a protective coat on the rails🤔

There is so much info to be gleaned from MRH on this subject,  I have another thread running on OGF that includes links to many articles:

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...7#152899748739812197

Someone did a chemical analysis and the conclusion was that alcohol wasn't an optimum cleaning solution, and it caused the issues described in that post.

See my above post for a picture of a comparison of alcohol, Goo-Gone, and Easy-Off oven cleaner.  I have no idea why anybody would use IPA.  This is a must read article for anyone who cleans wheels or track:

https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws...ne/index.html?page=9

I recommend reading the comments also.

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

I live seven miles from the Pacific ocean.  The night air oxidizes my track very quickly coming through the open sliding door for the dogs.  I found that if I have not been running my trains for a while I needed to use a Ryobi Corner Cat sander CFS150GK with a Scotchbrite pad to clean the track.  It has a vacuum and cleans as it goes. After this process the track will keep a shine with constant use and then the cleaner cars will work well. The sander is only $40.00 dollars at Home Depot. We found the standard green Scotchbrite pads work very well. The weight of the unit is all that is needed to restore a new look to the track.  Many times I have purchased new track and some of it is already oxidized in places.

Merry Christmas and stay well!

P.S. I am installing a slider doggy door to cut down on this influx of cold night air!

Duncan Foster

FV, CA

I agree that tunnels and mountains would pose a problem.  I am running about 300' of FasTrack but all of it is accessible.  I was able to clean the room in about three hours.  Before this I was trying to use a Dremel Cordless tool with some Scotch bright wheels that really work well but the project was taking days.  Again once the track is restored the cleaner cars can keep them bright. I have tried all kinds of chemicals and nothing was touching the oxidation. Also the plastic roadbed was getting dirty and changing color and this process restored a uniform clean look to the roadbed. I am pleased with the results.

Keep tracking!

Duncan

I agree that tunnels and mountains would pose a problem.  I am running about 300' of FasTrack but all of it is accessible.  I was able to clean the room in about three hours.  Before this I was trying to use a Dremel Cordless tool with some Scotch bright wheels that really work well but the project was taking days.  Again once the track is restored the cleaner cars can keep them bright. I have tried all kinds of chemicals and nothing was touching the oxidation. Also the plastic roadbed was getting dirty and changing color and this process restored a uniform clean look to the roadbed. I am pleased with the results.

Keep tracking!

Duncan

I would be concerned with the Scotchbrite being too abrasive. After reading some of the articles and comments from Model Railroad Hobbyist, it appears that anything courser than 600 grit is doing more harm than good.

I agree that liquid solvents won’t touch the black gunk. Because the gunk is electrostatically applied to the wheels and track, I’ve been thinking it is more like a powder coating as far as being impervious to solvents. That’s why I tried the Easy-Off oven cleaner. I’ve also ordered some Benzyl Alcohol which is supposed to be a power coat remover… we’ll see.

My test cleaning cars are those old Flyer ones you get at a local train show – lots of gunk built up.  Here is a picture of a car I did an experiment on about an hour ago:

Upper left wheel is 91% alcohol with a bit of elbow grease.  Upper right, Goo-Gone with the same amount of elbow grease, as best I could.  Lower left, Easy-Off oven cleaner – no elbow grease.  Just wipe on let sit a minute or two, then wipe off with a Q-tip wet with water.  Lower right, the control wheel – all of the wheels looked like the control going in… Your call.

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

@Tom Stoltz posted:

But what would you recommend for a solvent?

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

As I said earlier in the tread I use Acetone with no problems. Several people claim it will flash when you run trains. NOT true. I push it with an engine and never have I had a problem. I believe also in this thread there was a list of cleaning solutions and Acetone was listed as one not to use but wd-40 and other lubricants were listed as to use. NOT by me. I ONLY use acetone and this is the only car I know of that you can put it in as others have plastic parts which acetone does not get along with. Just pay attention to the instructions and control the number of drops into the pad. You want it moist not soaked and dripping as that will cause a problem.

ericstrains.com list video's and he has one all about it in the Video Library/Product Reviews. Scroll down as it is close to one of the early ones.

Curtis

@CurtisH posted:

As I said earlier in the tread I use Acetone with no problems. Several people claim it will flash when you run trains. NOT true. I push it with an engine and never have I had a problem. I believe also in this thread there was a list of cleaning solutions and Acetone was listed as one not to use but wd-40 and other lubricants were listed as to use. NOT by me. I ONLY use acetone and this is the only car I know of that you can put it in as others have plastic parts which acetone does not get along with. Just pay attention to the instructions and control the number of drops into the pad. You want it moist not soaked and dripping as that will cause a problem.

ericstrains.com list video's and he has one all about it in the Video Library/Product Reviews. Scroll down as it is close to one of the early ones.

Curtis

From MRH:

Avoid using isopropyl alcohol or any other strongly polar solvent for cleaning electrical surfaces. A chemist will tell you that strongly polar solvents have an electrical charge on the molecules and any residue from using them will encourage / attract dust and increase micro-arcing in the presence of an electrical current.

Better is to use a non-polar solvent like mineral spirits or to use a low polar solvent like ethyl acetate.

Other strong polar solvents to avoid: MEK, acetone, lacquer thinner, ethyl alcohol, ammonia, water. Strong polar solvents are not solvents you want to use on anything electrical. Low polar solvents are better, and non-polar solvents are best.

Joe Fugate
Publisher, Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine

@Dave_C posted:

I use the CMX car. I’ve always used CRC Brakleen. Just use the Red can version. It is non flammable. I spray it into a plastic dispenser and then transfer it to the car.

this does sound interesting, but you can't buy it in CA or NJ  and it is not plastic safe according to the CRC website.  At $4.00 from Amazon, I was going to try it, however if you can't use it to clean plastic wheels...

Tom Stoltz

As I said Tom,  I know about the study, but if you run your finger down the track after using what they suggest you WILL feel the film! I know what I use and am very happy with the results and I do not use it but maybe once or twice a year with no problems. If you keep using solvents with an oil base you will see it on your traction tires. If you can feel it on your finger, it is going to be on the tires. Put an o-ring in a pool of it and see what happens after time. It looses it's shape. Been a mechanic most of my life and I know that certain lubricants will send rubber funny. If you want to use it by all means use it. That is what this country still is, Freedom of Choice, and it was and is hard kept by many in the military! I am only stating what I use and the results. As you can see Dave uses Brakleen. Not a problem. I am stating that the CAR is the best way to clean track with what YOU want to use.

PS I saw a study saying the sun causes cancer but i still go outside in it. Cause I like the warmth and brightness. Of coarse they usually set my car on the end of the train due to how I am. LOL

Curtis

Hi Curtis,

Let me start by saying I am obsessed with cleaning wheels.  It has become a hobby within a hobby for me.  Most of it has been focused on finding a cleaning fluid (or method) that actually works.  As you saw in the picture of my comparison, some much hyped cleaners really aren’t all they are cranked up to be.  I have tried just about every solvent mentioned and many more that are not and unfortunately, the results were always the same – they really don’t work on the black gunk, though some are better than others.  Acetone is better than 91% IPA, at this point, I would rate it close to Easy-Off, but it also softens the plastic wheels.  I’m not sure how much the black on the Q-tip is actually the plastic wheel.  I did look up the Brakleen, the website stated it is not safe for plastic.  I hope Dave will weigh in on his experience with it.  I still might give it a try.

You are correct about the film left by some of the cleaning methods.  It is my understanding the film is desirable because it helps minimize the arcing which is the cause of the black gunk.  I also agree about petroleum products and rubber traction tires. --  I just replaced a set that Goo-Gone had taken. --  Such it the life of a wheel cleaner…  what I’m learning from this discussion (there are currently three threads running on OGF) is a lot of the methods we believe to be working are actually exacerbating the problem.  Goo-gone is that for me.  For years I’ve been using it and for years I’ve been cleaning wheels thinking I was doing a good job,  And I was doing a good job… at creating wheels that needed to be cleaned.  I am still searching for a method that works.

I’m afraid my fate is similar to Diogenes’s.

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

Thanks everyone for your input.  Looks like there is a lot of you not sure what is the best solution.  I am one who was using  Goo Gone and after loosing traction tires 😑 I gave it up. The first thing for me is to find a good cleaning car.  Then solvent that is user friendly to my track and health. Also a solvent that works on gunk and grime.  Anyone with more information please respond. I did do a pass with my Northeast trains cleaning car and acetone and it seemed to work well with one pass on the layout.  I then followed up with a dry cloth and still was getting gunk on the cloth. I feel that I was spinning my wheels using Goo Gone. Was having engine problems so it will be interesting to see what acetone does.😃

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