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Hi Steve,

CLW and Overland Models are also decent options for that type fuel tank, harder to find albeit. I see both pop up on eBay occasionally, although the CLW is usually included in a kit. I'm not certain but I've been told CLW is still in business for custom work and such. Not sure if this is still valid but here is the contact info for them is 760 221-5558, clwusa@verizon.net.

Good luck,

John

Indeed Mike, it's a straight 38.  Good pic and roster here:
https://www.thedieselshop.us/NorShore.HTML

I expect you know this already, Steven, but if you're starting with a Weaver GP38-2, for some reason they based it on the early version with a gap between the two roof fans at the end of the long hood and the Blomberg-B trucks with the leaf springs sticking out.  Just fill in the little inspection window near the end of the long-hood right-hand side and you could be good to go!  If you have the choice get the older Weaver model with the chain-drive.

Friend of mine here in the UK has made the longer fuel tank by (he said 'simply by'!) wrapping the thinnest brass sheet he could find using the Weaver tank as a former.  Well, his looks OK, I think he's got pics a long time ago on RMWeb I'll try and find them.

Good project, I need another -2 for my D&H modelling and have to decide whether to stump up the cash for a 3-rail to convert, or just swap the Weaver fans and ventilators for a Des Plaines Hobbies set of parts.  Oh no, I still haven't finished that Central Loco Works kit from all those years ago yet....

Jason

Jason Dickie posted:

 

Friend of mine here in the UK has made the longer fuel tank by (he said 'simply by'!) wrapping the thinnest brass sheet he could find using the Weaver tank as a former.  Well, his looks OK, I think he's got pics a long time ago on RMWeb I'll try and find them.

Jason


Are you thinking of my 'kitbashed' GP40, Jason?

Mostly Weaver GP38 parts except for Atlas SD40 long hood (shortened slightly) & battery boxes, & GP35 dynamics blister.

I made a long fuel tank as Jason says, by wrapping brass sheet around the original tank, and soldering end sheets to them, with cut-outs for the drive shaft.

The photos on RMweb are long lost now, thanks to the PhotoBucket fiasco awhile back, but here's one I've been able to find showing the side of the new tank before painting, & afterwards....000024911360000024909824

I did later remove the fan from the dynamics blister, as per the prototype, which I'd overlooked at time of building.

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Mike CT posted:

Weaver model   GP38-2   tank looks a little short to the front. 

Mike, this is the last, essentially reworked for 3-rail version of the GP38-2 when Weaver had moved the production to China.  Notice the concession to 3-rail with the one-piece, truck-mounted, diecast swinging pilot and the handrails-by-stamping-sheet-metal.  Aaah well....  But hey,  I've got a couple of early ones!!

Jordan's good thread was in 2013(!) on RMWeb, worth a read if it works:
https://www.rmweb.co.uk/commun...aver-o-scale-gp38-2/

Jason

 

 

Jason Dickie posted:
Mike CT posted:

Weaver model   GP38-2   tank looks a little short to the front. 

Mike, this is the last, essentially reworked for 3-rail version of the GP38-2 when Weaver had moved the production to China.  Notice the concession to 3-rail with the one-piece, truck-mounted, diecast swinging pilot and the handrails-by-stamping-sheet-metal.  Aaah well....  But hey,  I've got a couple of early ones!!

Jordan's good thread was in 2013(!) on RMWeb, worth a read if it works:
https://www.rmweb.co.uk/commun...aver-o-scale-gp38-2/

Jason

 

 

FYI, THE MTH SD40/SD40-2 Fuel tank almost fits. A 1/8 sanding of the tank vertical ends where it fits in the indented Weaver frame and you are good to GO! [For the "china Drive" Versions] This is what I used on my Weaver Models GP40-2 conversion!

allan_mod3allan_mod5allan_mod6

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Last edited by prrhorseshoecurve

NSHR 2017 was a B&O GP38 that was rebuilt into a GP38-2. Externally, it still mostly expresses the features of a straight GP38.

I'm using an old Weaver GP38 for the project, the version with fixed pilots. The fan spacing is accurate to 2017.

I've already done a lot of roof work on it, especially around the dynamic brakes. Quite a bit had to be changed, and was done so through a mix of 3D printing and careful putty work.

It took a lot of time and a lot of patience, but I was able to get the 3D printed areas perfectly smooth between puttying and sanding/filing. I'm sure it will pay off when the area has a nice even coat of paint on it.

Thanks for all the responses.

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