Scenic cement? Hot glue? Rubber cement? Double sided tape?
Obviously fast setup is critical for the unbalanced standing figures, but without the destruction CA causes to Plasticville would be nice...
Thanks for any ideas!
Tom
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Scenic cement? Hot glue? Rubber cement? Double sided tape?
Obviously fast setup is critical for the unbalanced standing figures, but without the destruction CA causes to Plasticville would be nice...
Thanks for any ideas!
Tom
Replies sorted oldest to newest
On the more static ones I use Rubber Cement as it would be easy to remove and does not do any damage. What works for me (sometimes) on the ones that are less stable is to put a "glob" of Rubber Cement in the spot I want it then wait a few minutes till it gets "sticky" and then put the figure on it. Sometimes works sometimes not. I also use a cement called "School Glue" which seems like regular rubber cement but is more transparent and seems to work a little better. Available at Michael's. Yes I have also used CA when I get desperate
Don
Don McErlean posted:On the more static ones I use Rubber Cement
Don
Rubber cement is the way to go. A little rubber cement allowed to dry on both surfaces before assembly will create a temporary bond that is easily removed.
Fun Tak
For insulation foam (or similar) layout surfaces: Heat a straight pin with a match and stick it up into a plastic figure's leg or other relevant part, then clip off the pin's head. Now the figure can be stuck anywhere you would like, and moved without visible damage to the surface.
There's also Bullfrog Snot, supposedly not harmful to plastic. I believe it's the same stuff that peels off of address labels and such like.
What Joe said - Museum Wax.
I cut little plastic pads from the packaging they came in and glue the figures to them. They stand perfectly,can be moved easily and don't require any clean up. I use gorilla glue to affix them to those tiny little feet.
I use hot glue
I have tried a bunch and so far had good luck with Sticky Max made by Lemax. Use it every year on the Christmas layout, works great and a little container seems to last forever! Will be using it on the new permanent layout!
Another vote for Museum Wax.
RSJB18 posted:Fun Tak
That's a good idea! My kids are grown so I forgot about all those wall posters.
I tried Museum Wax, but it's not all that useful, I think I'd go with something like Bob's rubber cement idea, it comes off pretty easily but will secure them better.
A little dab of rubber cement works great for me. Arnold
D500 posted:For insulation foam (or similar) layout surfaces: Heat a straight pin with a match and stick it up into a plastic figure's leg or other relevant part, then clip off the pin's head. Now the figure can be stuck anywhere you would like, and moved without visible damage to the surface.
I like D500 pin idea as it will also work with homosote. If you can’t stick the pin in use a micro drill bit to make a hole. When and if you change whatever you used for the landscaping will cover the hole nicely. I used this metho for planting trees on my last layout.
I vote with Tom McGriel. I use CA glue to attach figures to clear scrap plastic rectangles. Like he said, you can move them anywhere and it looks OK because the surface they're standing on shows through the plastic.
John
the clear plastic works well
i cut it in a triangular shape and slightly bend each corner down which will set on even uneven locations
I’ve used museum wax, plastic pads, rubber cement and WS Scenic Accents Glue. Lately I’ve been using the Scenic Accents Glue the most.
FlyPlanes-PlayTrains posted:Scenic cement? Hot glue? Rubber cement? Double sided tape?
Obviously fast setup is critical for the unbalanced standing figures, but without the destruction CA causes to Plasticville would be nice...
Thanks for any ideas!
Tom
I use Gorilla brand Super glue because it is a little flexible. I have not had any issues removing figures form surfaces by just prying gently with a knife blade.
What damage is the CA you reference causing to Plasticville?
Don
DGJONES posted:What damage is the CA you reference causing to Plasticville?
CA Adhesive will cloud clear plastic, it's death on windows.
Woodland Scenics sells this for exactly your purpose.
I've used Micro Glue Dots (1/8") to stand HO and O figures.
Same here glue dots. They work for people’s in passenger cars too.
KOOLjock1 posted:
That's what I've always used, works great. Nice because you can quickly and easily move figures around, changing up scenes, which creates more interest.
CA is great for things when needing a quick set and hold, to be finished by more appropriate methods. Like laying a tack weld. I use CA on buildings to set the square then follow up with appropriate glue depending on the model type.
Walthers Goo used sparingly works well.
Scott
Thanks everyone. Depending on who you’re sticking to what surface, these are great options. I ended up buying most suggestions here, and they’ve all worked great for various layout locations.
As a side note Home Depot stocks, in the store, museum wax. Although it’s in an enormous 13oz container, it’s only $10... If anyone in central PA would like a scoop or two, I now have enough for many lifetimes.
Tom
Cur Ra Hee! (I stand alone)
Glue dots found at Staples or Office Depot.
Thread needs renamed to 101 ways to stick little people to your layout. Lots of good feedback on this and plenty of options.
I don't have pictures ..but if you get the dermal gray drill bits I think their are 6 or so sizes in them ..
I just use my fingers and turn the bit with my fingers under their feet...
I drill in 2 or 3 mm then I get any stick pin use a dab of super glue and (pun ..."stick it to them" )
I leave around 3/8 or so of the needle out of a leg.. then just put them in your foam or if necessary drill your ply-would same way.. whats nice is you can move them "anytime" anywhere.. makes you know when someone is really paying attention to your details...daniel
Rubber cement - A Little Dab Will Do Ya'.
TexasSP posted:Thread needs renamed to 101 ways to stick little people to your layout. Lots of good feedback on this and plenty of options.
You are so right, TexasSP! So I'll add to the list. Lexel Elastic Sealant. It's super clear. In fact, they claim it's 19X clearer than silicone, if you believe that. Anyway, I used it to "mount" about 20-25 figures on a small layout I built about 10 years ago by applying a tiny bead under the feet of each figure. Not one figure has ever moved from its mounted location since then.
Even better...I just dismantled the layout this past weekend. Every single figure lifted off with ease. Not a single broken, cracked or damaged anything. In most cases, a thin layer of Lexen remained on either the figures' feet, or the place where the figure was mounted (e.g. "sidewalk"). In either case, it rolled right off with the use of a finger and left no visible marks...even after 10 years! I would definitely use it again.
Readily available, here's a link to just one of many sources.
Patrick1544 posted:
I use that as a traction booster applied to one outer rail of a 5% grade; topside/inside rail detacked is best. I have used it on figures too,
Regular caulk can be painted 😉 Silicone isn't fun to paint
I have a few rolls of various gauges of stainless packaging wire and welding wire (.019-.040) and have used heat on the tip & melted some length of wire into figure heels (wire held with small pliers), then clip it to length.
A foot post limits the possibility of repositioning the figure "anywhere". (Unless you want to drill a bunch of holes in a nice platform, etc. )
The stainless wire,n high grade needles/ pins can often be pulled free of a melted figure foot later, but not always.
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