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If I understand your layout, it is "U" shaped. Have you figured what the minimum radius track you'll have to fit your layout?
I bought the software RR-Track. It has been helpful fitting various ideas together
minimum curve probably needs to be 054, although I need 072 on the mainline for my veranda and a steamer I am planning on buying. my other locomotives are f3s and 3 trainmasters. I Am using track software to work with this on my laptop. Wish they had it for my IPad.
I don't know how you can get O72 curves in a 12 by 12 "U" shaped layout.
I turned O54 curves around on my former 5 by 9 layout. Almost all of the 5 feet was required to do that. If I understand the shape of your "U" layout, the two "legs" would each need to be 5 feet, leaving only 2 feet between them for O54 track.
I wish you well especially designing your layout, as one of my most enjoyable aspects of model railroading is designing a workable track plan.
The layout is12' across the back with 2 8' tables to make the U.i am plan to use possibly two bridges across the open area.
I'm not seeing how an 072 U is possible in 12x12. As is mentioned above, O72 is actually more than 6' wide and in order to make a U layout, you have the track inside itself, without enough room to complete even the outer leg of the loop. It takes 12 feet to turn 072 back around and that definitely wont fit. (in order to complete the inside of the loop, you need to bring the ends all the way back in, as you dont have the 18 feet necessary to put 3 O 72 half circles together and actually make a U. So you probably need 14 pieces of a 16 piece complete circle, then you'll have to make an S curve out another 12 (2 to turn yourself back straight and 8 to make the half circle you need). You could also do it with reversing loops on the ends and a single track connecting them, but still... 12 feet wide wont do it.
I'm sorry, I just dont see this fitting at all. If you need O-72 in a 12x12, build yourself an oval, or triangle of it, and do the U with O-42 or 48. If the space in the center is so narrow you cant walk, work or sit in it, then its not a U, it may as well be a square.
Boilermaker, if I understood Rick correctly, he is planning to "bridge" the two legs of the "U" with a thin strip to accommodate one or two tracks, so that the the minimum radius would be, effectively, the same as a full 12' by 12' sheet.
Well to me, if you connect it, its an O, not a U. Sounds like we need to see a drawing of whats going on here.
Terry is correct. The bridges would go across the legs, and yes., guess it would become an o. You have to remember this is my first layout.
Well, I'm surely no expert, but I believe "U" shape best describes Rick's layout.
Essentially all of the layout takes place on the "U", and the "bridge" is there merely to allow continuous running of the train.
Oh, an O. You can do anything you want. How about 2 loops with a couple of crossovers and a passing siding, a mine in the corner served by a siding, perhaps elevated, 2 towns with some industries served by sidings, a small yard with a couple of long tracks. I can see it now...
I'm kind of surprised how many people build the benchwork without a track plan figured out. One guy had benchwork from Mianne on order with no track plan. That seems, I don't know, I guess I don't think that way.
A diagram of the room to show doors, windows and any other obstructions along with measurements would be the basic starting point.
not seeing how an 072 U is possible in 12x12.
This is O72 on a 12'x12'. It is the smallest "U" shape I can do.
It doesn't fit
If you want to elevate one of the "lobes" over the other and can also elevate one of the back straights over the other perhaps you can get it to not hang over the edges.
--Joe
With a bridge across the open end here is a O-72 loop inside an O-80 loop done in Scaletrax.
Looks like plenty of room to me, even more if you use flats on the sides VS Full buildings.
There are no windows or obstructions. I like the 072 inside the 080. What size switcWes would work between the two loops? I also decided to pt the mine in the back left corner. Possibly a small yard inside the loop on the back table. Am going to use on 30 in the mine for a small ore train
Rick,
As to the switch size you need to decide what brand track you plan to use.
IMO, the best looking switches are by Ross Custom Switches. They make some very nice gradual turnouts that look like actual railroad switches, #6, #8, and #10. The larger the number the more gradual the turnout.
A #8 double xover (#280) would look unbelievable and would give the the perfect distance between tracks for a double mainline, but you would need to also need to use their track or other comparable track for the best appearance. (Checkout their website)
I used their 4-way yard switch on my former layout. Unbelievable!
Good luck on your venture.
Actually I plan to use gargraves and Ross switches. I have spent a lot of time trying to decide between Atlas and gargraves. Decided on gargraves for a number of reasons.
Some very good ideas.Thanks for the time And effort. I appreciate any and all ideas.
My layout is in a room that's approx 11.5x12.0 feet, with the entry at the bottom left:
This could easily be re-arranged to suit your needs.
Here's one that Dave Hikel drew for me:
The only reason I didn't use it was because I already had most of the switches.
Here's one I found online I believe:
Hopefully you can make out the track plan.
Rick, Thanks for posting. William's plan is a good one if the door to be bridged is in the middle of the room. My room that will one day be evacuated by my daughter who is a senior in college has the door and window over in the corner more like the plans Bob just posted ahead of me. If you are bridging a door, you need to decide on layout height so you know whether you need a lift out or swing out arrangement, or if it is high enough you can have a stationary duck under. I like to view trains closer to eye level than most O gaugers, so I prefer the duck under approach. Also, you don't have to worry about the mechanics of the lift out, electrical continuity, killing the power when the lift out is up, etc. I want to make mine as trouble free as possible because I don't like to fix things. I like to run trains and build scenery. Welcome to a great hobby!
Happy Model Railroading,
Mark Boyce
Butler, Pennsylvania
Luckily, I am putting this layout in my shop and building the room around it. So doors are where I want them, and there are no windows. I really appreciate all the ideas.
Rick,
The plans I posted above have a liftout bridge. I made mine from two 1x6 boards forming a "T". It's very strong and lightweight at over 6 feet long. I wired it using a 2-prong plug so I can unplug it and lift it out of the way to gain access to the room.
I've actually removed it while a train was running (I didn't feel like ducking under it at the time) with no issues and can run the layout without it as a switching layout. Simply plug it back up for loop running.
It's a Plain Jane design right now but I plan on making it look more like a bridge or viaduct at some point in time. I've even got space down the left side where I'll probably install a yard and another Wye:
some inspiring track plans here
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