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My 1st RK 2-8-0 gave me a lot of problems on switches, my 2nd never did.  I just figured it was my sloppy track work at the time and worked to correct that.

Since then I've converted them to BPRC and 2-rail code 148 track and with some mileage on them now they are among my best running engines.  I never thought I would get the slow smooth speed I presently see.  Even managed to put Kadee couplers on front and rear.

If I ever have problems again I'll give this fix a try!

A recurring issue on some MTH steamers with a 2-wheel front truck, apparently. I have had to "re-design" the front truck mount on the RK 2-8-8-2 a couple of times. The main mounting screw/pivot is in a slot, cast into the truck; this allows the truck to attempt to swing on both ends, "pivoting" around an imaginary center point, causing it to cock sideways and derail, especially on switches and the like. I epoxied a washer over this slot, giving the truck a just a plain hole for the screw.

My 3rd Rail NYC Mercury 4-6-2 had a similar issue with its rear truck. Same cure.

@D500 posted:

A recurring issue on some MTH steamers with a 2-wheel front truck, apparently. I have had to "re-design" the front truck mount on the RK 2-8-8-2 a couple of times. The main mounting screw/pivot is in a slot, cast into the truck; this allows the truck to attempt to swing on both ends, "pivoting" around an imaginary center point, causing it to cock sideways and derail, especially on switches and the like. I epoxied a washer over this slot, giving the truck a just a plain hole for the screw.

My 3rd Rail NYC Mercury 4-6-2 had a similar issue with its rear truck. Same cure.

Would you be able to send a picture? I have the RK y6b that the rear trucks do that a lot. Not so much on the front but I wonder if it could be adapted to the rear.

Aldovar -

2 not-great shots, and I didn't want to unclip the suspension, but I think it's clear enough. The idea is to get rid of the oval slot at the screw end to prevent yaw. There are other ways, I'm sure, but this is easy.

Removing the truck completely from the loco, I used a common brass washer, epoxying it to the top of the unwanted slot. Let it cure overnight and replace the truck.

This may not cure your issue, but it's a thought. I've done this on 3 MTH locos. If my loco looks a little "non-MTH-Mallet" in spots, it's because it's been scratch-bashed a bit. Not relevant to the running gear.

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