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86TA355SR posted:

K Line 18" version:

 IMG_8003

This car finishes my K Line passenger car collection.  I was able to find all the 21" and 18" cars over the last four years.  The 21" cars bring big money, but the 18" cars were harder to find.  

It looks like there are flaps at the ends, is it not a one piece extrusion? For coupler swing? Nice car.

Last edited by BobbyD

Seek peek. Haven't had time to get it all out..

Sometimes I just can't help myself......

IMG_20180112_212208

IMG_20180111_191748

Beautuful OMI paint job.  I knew it wasn't going to be a match to my GGD ttg set but I couldn't resist. I figure it'll be a good stand in until I get my other one painted to match. It's a stunner.

Thanks Bill Davis.

 

 

 

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  • IMG_20180112_212208
  • IMG_20180111_191748
Last edited by WITZ 41
BobbyD posted:
86TA355SR posted:

K Line 18" version:

 IMG_8003

This car finishes my K Line passenger car collection.  I was able to find all the 21" and 18" cars over the last four years.  The 21" cars bring big money, but the 18" cars were harder to find.  

It looks like there are flaps at the ends, is it not a one piece extrusion? For coupler swing? Nice car.

Swing skirts are for tighter curves. Another example: some of Lionel's 18" aluminum cars advertise "Swing skirts for O-31 operation".

Little slow, so I went digging for some UP photos on my work computer. This is a KTM/USA gondola, that has been painted and decaled for a UP G-70-4. The uniqueness of this car is that it was made and sold by KTM/USA and is not a USH or MG car built by KTM.  In the mid 90's, KTM decided to market their own models, since Japanese pricing had risen to a point that most importers had moved on to Korea. 

It's basically a super detailed USH model improved and reoffered by KTM themselves. They also offered the KTM/USA FEF-3 which is quite collectable today.

 

KTMUSA Gon 001KTMUSA Gon 002KTMUSA Gon 009

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Images (3)
  • KTMUSA Gon 001
  • KTMUSA Gon 002
  • KTMUSA Gon 009

These are fairly common today, but these are new and never run, unlike some of the models circulating around the system and I have the outer shipping container as well. Imported in the 90's they do a good job representing the UP F-3's. I'm sure the models KEY imported in the last 3-4 years are superior, but I was told by the importer there were no UP's in this last run.  I've just hung onto them. 

Butch

Trains 10-2-2016 002Trains 10-2-2016 004Trains 10-2-2016 007

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Images (3)
  • Trains 10-2-2016 002
  • Trains 10-2-2016 004
  • Trains 10-2-2016 007
WITZ 41 posted:
BobbyD posted:
86TA355SR posted:

K Line 18" version:

 IMG_8003

This car finishes my K Line passenger car collection.  I was able to find all the 21" and 18" cars over the last four years.  The 21" cars bring big money, but the 18" cars were harder to find.  

It looks like there are flaps at the ends, is it not a one piece extrusion? For coupler swing? Nice car.

Swing skirts are for tighter curves. Another example: some of Lionel's 18" aluminum cars advertise "Swing skirts for O-31 operation".

Thanks, have never seen that on a Lionel car so it must be a K-Line tooling thing?

Attached are a couple of photos of my Sofue FEF-2 when it arrived in 2016. Told the seller not to ship in the Sofue wooden box, which seemed to perturb him, but now I'm so glad I insisted. This wooden box might be okay for carrying wine bottles, but is totally inadequate for shipping brass models and the loco would have been destroyed if shipped in it. I put it in the box for these photos only.

This is 1 of 23 made in the early to mid 2000's and this was either the last model type he produced or next to the last before he passed.  I will post additional photo later if there is an interest.

Butch

Sofue FEF-2 001Sofue FEF-2 002 [1)

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Images (2)
  • Sofue FEF-2 001
  • Sofue FEF-2 002 (1)

Jay,

I've never seen a Sofue SP 4-10-2 in person, but if it's like my FEF-2, it is not perfect. On the other hand, I have a C&LS 4-10-2 by Henry and consider it to be one of the best models I own, bar none. It's as close to perfect as anything out there and can be had for less than half the price of a Sofue.  Admittedly, Sofue locos have a lot of intrinsic value, due to their rarity and his reputation, but my FEF-2 has numerous errors and I've heard his 4-10-2's had some too.

 

I guess I shouldn't be that critical since it's more a work of art by one man than anything else. But, given the choice to own a Sofue or C&LS 4-10-2, I'll take the C&LS. 

Butch

 

As promised a few more pics.  I couldn't resist it.....

OMI 0107 O SCALE

UNION PACIFIC 4-6-2

TWO TONE GREY #3225.

OMI 0107

O Scale 4-6-2

IMG_20180210_185902112Union Pacific 4-6-2IMG_20180210_190023027IMG_20180210_190612771IMG_20180210_190742460IMG_20180210_190431248

When I bought it I knew it wasn't going to match my new GGD Harrimans....but I was hoping it would be a little closer than it is....

IMG_20180111_190520802

But that's ok....I have another unpainted one I'm sending off along with one of the cars to have painted to a perfect match Cab #3222.

Meanwhile, a project is patiently waiting for some love and attention.  Evidence of my lack of time.

IMG_20180210_162639737

 

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Images (10)
  • OMI 0107: Union Pacific 4-6-2
  • O Scale 4-6-2: Union Pacific 4-6-2
  • OMI Ajin Union Pacific 4-6-2: Union Pacific 4-6-2
  • Union Pacific 4-6-2: O Scale Union Pacific 4-6-2
  • Two Tone Gray 4-6-2: Union Pacific 4-6-2
  • OMI Ajin 4-6-2: Union Pacific 4-6-2
  • O scale 4-6-2: Union Pacific 4-6-2
  • OMI 0107: Union Pacific 4-6-2
  • Union Pacific 3225: Union Pacific 4-6-2
  • IMG_20180210_162639737
Last edited by WITZ 41

Will,

Looks like the E-7 is coming along fine.  I really like the perforated pilot, as that's the way most UP E-7's  operated.

I'm still trying to figure out how to get the 2-10-2 apart. Found two tiny screws that hold the rear of the superstructure on, below the cab, but I'm totally lost trying to find anything in the front that holds it together. I know Peter sent me instructions on how to take it apart 20+ years ago, but they went with the model when it was sold the Bob Hess. Apparently between Hess and Seacrest the instructions were lost....and so am I.  So it's been relegated to the RIP track for now.

I'm making sand hatches for the Kohs 9000 I picked up last year, which was minus these items from the seller. Exhausted all possibilities of reaching the builder, Sun Jin Models, so decided to build my own and it's working out great.  Seems the PSC BigBoy/Challenger hatches have the same size protrusion on their bases and fit into the Kohs dome like a glove. I just had to file the tops to match the 9000 style which is more rounded on the ends, tapered edges and thinner. Don't think they'll be any difference when I'm done.

 

Butch

up148 posted:

I'm still trying to figure out how to get the 2-10-2 apart. Found two tiny screws that hold the rear of the superstructure on, below the cab, but I'm totally lost trying to find anything in the front that holds it together. I know Peter sent me instructions on how to take it apart 20+ years ago, but they went with the model when it was sold the Bob Hess. Apparently between Hess and Seacrest the instructions were lost....and so am I.  So it's been relegated to the RIP track for now.

Butch

Most of the KTM UP I've seen there is a screw to release the the smoke box from the cylinders that can be accessed from the top down directly through the smoke stack.  

Since the Bassett TTT has the details inside the smoke box, the injector nozzles cover the spot where I remember the screw to be. I wonder if that piece pops off to reveal it.  

It also looked to me like the the interior detail was a separate assembly he made that then slid into the smoke box like a sleeve.  Perhaps does the whole inside slide forward and out?

Maybe Peter just soldered it somehow. So many details.

Also I seem to remember a screw being on top of the sand dome of either the 5077 I sold to Aaron or the KTM Mountain I have.

I have the "project" TTT I picked up to replace the Bassett, I'll pull it out tonight and take a look. Maybe the stock one will shed some light on where you can look.

Yep Will, all my previous KTM models had the boiler attached by the screw through the stack.  I did think about trying to unscrew or pop off the nozzle in the smoke box, but I just haven't had the courage to try that yet. I don't think the smoke box interior comes out, but I'll check that. Looking all around (top, bottom and sides) there are no visible screw heads........period.

Jay, this model was totally rebuilt by Peter Bassett and only the bones are still KTM and those are highly modified. Pony truck, trailing truck and all drivers are now equalized and sprung. Both the pony and trailing truck were hand made to match the prototype they attach much differently now than stock KTM trucks. The internal threaded screw in photo 4 attaches the trailing truck to lever that is tied to the equalized suspension of the drivers. This system is similar to the KTM/USA FEF-3 or the Sofue models I have. But, they don't have any hidden screws. 

 

Butch

 

2-10-2 trailing truck 0022-10-2 trailing truck 0032-10-2 trailing truck 0062-10-2 trailing truck 0112-10-2 trailing truck 021 differently than

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Images (5)
  • 2-10-2 trailing truck 002
  • 2-10-2 trailing truck 003
  • 2-10-2 trailing truck 006
  • 2-10-2 trailing truck 011
  • 2-10-2 trailing truck 021

Interesting, I've only owned about 100 O Scale models made by KTM and worked on probably just as many, none of them had a screw going down through the stack.  I did have a first run MG SP 4-8-2 that had two screws going through the frame into posts soldered to the bottom of the boiler.

Obviously, articulated were a little different.

Jay

Sorry Butch, the junker I have won't be much help.  It's an "early TTT version" and completely stock.

Jay is absolutely right about the screw on the bottom.  Must be the way they were made. All the others I've had were significantly modified.

IMG_20180216_145503

IMG_20180216_145929

Does the whole boiler shift forward a bit like a hooked hinge in front that locks in place with the screws by the cab and firebox? Quite a puzzle.

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Images (2)
  • IMG_20180216_145503
  • IMG_20180216_145929
Last edited by WITZ 41

No Witt, taking the back tail beam screws out really did nothing or maybe allowed 1/6th" movement.

Jay, you're right!   I looked at a stock USH FEF-3 and it is held from the bottom not through the stack. I'm pretty sure I've looked everywhere above the pony truck and found no screws, but once I get done with the sand hatches I'll go back the TTT.

BH

I'm getting close to being done with sand hatches for my KOH's 9000, so I'll bring the TTT in off the rip track soon. Bought this 9000 from an estate liquidator with some fairly minor poor handling damage and missing sand dome hatches. The seller was not train savvy and refused to look around for the missing hatches and had sold several other models from this collection, so the hatches might have gone with one of them.  I bought it right and figured if I couldn't buy replacement new hatches from the builder I'd make some...........turns out I had to make them. Not perfect, but with a little more sanding they will be close enough. Had to reshaped them a little, thin them down, taper the edges and add grab handles.  

But, since I'm going to gut the electronics and add modern DCC, I didn't figure making my own hatches would spoil the pedigree of the model. I think it will be a great model when finished, as it was a great model to start with, just dated electronics and a few builder mistakes, that need correcting. 

1st two photos are stock PSC BB and Challenger hatches that fit the opening in the KOHs dome like a glove.  Last photo is of the modified hatches with grabs. 

 

Butch

 

PSC Sand Hatch [2)PSC Sand Hatch [1)Modifed PSC Sand Hatches 001

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Images (3)
  • PSC Sand Hatch (2): Stock PSC Casting
  • PSC Sand Hatch (1): Stock PSC Casting
  • Modifed PSC Sand Hatches 001: Modified PSC Casting
Last edited by up148

3rd Rail Alco PA and PB.  

Union Pacific 604A and 604B

Outfitted in 1955 appearance.  Dual headlights, silver trucks, but before aftercooler piping on the roofs.  All three of those details were changed on the PAs in 1955.

The models are beautiful.  The PA sounds and runs great.....

 

The PB....not so much. DOA. 

(Maybe from shipping?  I know they test their products thoroughly.  It just sat there and buzzed. The fan screen was popped off the roof fan).

I  emailed Scott since I bought it direct.  Immediate response. He's already sent me a UPS label.  I'll be shipping it out to him to correct the issues.  Honestly,  I don't know how the other guys stay in business.  They can't compete with 3rd Rail's service or commitment to their products.

 

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Videos (1)
3rd Rail Alco PA
Last edited by WITZ 41

One Pacific, Two Pacific

Me Pacific, Union Pacific!

 

If there's one thing I've learned the deeper I get into 2-Rail it's that OMI/Ajin locomotives are beautiful, but gee whiz are they finicky runners!

With a little work #3225 runs nice and smooth, but I still can't get #2897 to budge.  Keeps shorting out somewhere on the front wheel truck.  Just add it to the list if things to I need get to fixing!

KTM on the other hand, while not as delicately detailed, just need a quick clean.  Oil 'em up, throw them on the track and they run like a sewing machine!

Enjoy!

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Videos (1)
OMI 4-6-2
Last edited by WITZ 41

Got my Alco PB unit back from 3rd Rail today.  I have to say fantastic service and commitment to their products.

Tested and runs fine.  I'm really glad Scott chose to do the B units independently powered with sound, smoke, and lights.  This is definitely the way to go for all future diesel units.

Once I have the time to paint the trucks 1948-1955 gray they'll be off and running just like the prototypes did across the UP's Kansas division.

IMG_20180518_130239

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Images (1)
  • IMG_20180518_130239

Well, resurrecting an old thread, I had some time yesterday to look at my 2-10-2 again and absolutely concluded the screw holding the boiler to the chassis had to be hidden under the 4 port annular nozzle that was installed in the bottom of the smokebox.  It lined up with the stack so if the nozzle was removed you could reach down through the stack and remove the screw.

I've tried in the past to remove this nozzle to no avail. Finally, yesterday I decided "the h*ll with this" and used what I considered to be excessive force and low and behold I was able to remove the nozzle and attached 1/2" brass tube from the slightly larger nozzle base and the elusive screw was revealed within.  

So now I will start rebuilding and refurbishing this model and update the wiring and electronics that weren't available in the 80's when it was built. 

Butch

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Images (3)
  • Bassett 2-10-2 009
  • Bassett 2-10-2 010
  • Bassett 2-10-2 017

Since it has owner built (1980's) battery constant lighting that must have been put in before either the backhead or firebox was detailed, I sent the boiler out to Gary Schrader to remove these 7" long brass tubes and "AA" batteries along with the 7" long solid brass rod boiler weights as Peter had soldered it all together. 

Getting ready to strip paint off the paint off the chassis, but here are some photos of his custom drive. Everything is over the top and fabricated, but it worked as he designed it. Just an incredible amount of work to get his results.

2-10-2 electrical 0022-10-2 electrical 0232-10-2 Drive 008

2-10-2 Drive 001

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Images (4)
  • 2-10-2 Drive 001
  • 2-10-2 electrical 002
  • 2-10-2 electrical 023
  • 2-10-2 Drive 008

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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