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I've recently found a must-have locomotive and naturally I could only get it in 2Rail Brass. 90's OMI-Ajin model. No command bells or whistles. I run conventional 3R with a ZW-L so I'm a pretty simple guy.

Figuring since I'm going to add one 2R loop I might as well add two loops

Using Atlas 3-Rail O track already I was going to use Atlas 2R track.

For power/control I was looking at the Bridgewerks Magnum 220-RM.  It looks like straigtforward quality conventional control with plenty of power.

Before I start spending I would appreciate any experience, feedback, or advice from anyone who is familiar with these products.  I would appreciate any alternative suggestions to include support why they would be a better choice.

Thanks for your help.





77387f_449332bb043d440ca3b89cf4261b892f.jpg_srz_p_306_367_75_22_0.50_1.20_0

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I have never heard of that power supply.    Is it not a common USA power supply?

 

Have you checked to see if Atlas 3 rail track has the two outside rails connected electrically?    You might be able to run a 2 rail engine on the same track with a little wiring.    I used the old Gargraves track with wooden ties many years ago.   The two outside rails were not wired together.    So it was possible to wire the two outside rails for DC and then wire the center rail and one or two outside rails for AC.    You use a double pole double throw switch to change back and forth.    And of course you can't have any switches on your loops.

 

For straight DC, I used a 6 amp GML Enterprises throttle with memory.    Comes with a 5 year warranty.  

 I have several of the Bridgewerks transformers and like them. You may need to use the handle limit mechanism to keep the voltage at the track lower. Some models go higher for G scale use. I believe one of mine will go up to somewhere around 27 volts at the track.

 They are very well built and run engines smoothly.

I use Atlas 2 rail track. I just got some micro engineering to compare. I think I may use it for long straights as it seems very rigid. The Atlas is easy to flex however you need it to curve.

In my opinion, you should use one of the two "inner channels" of the ZWL [ + a bridge rectifier and dpdt of course ] to get started, provided you are using one or both as a 'fixed' supply for wayside stuff;  those can be transferred to some fixed  supply or a smaller AC xformer.  The V A gauges on the L will give you an idea of your power consumption and you can then figure out what you need, with allowance for reserve, etc, for the 2 rail side's longer term solution, including MU operation.

 

I would steer clear of a dual throttle pack for conventional DC operation unless you are assured each throttle has its own xformer;  if it doesn't, you can't use common rail return.

 

Best, SZ

 

Even better idea SZ.

I'm researching forum posts for ZW-L to DC set-up. I may even look for a way to power source switch and use three rail track as mentioned above If outside rails are properly isolated from each other.  Then I can run either select 3R or 2R for the same loop.

Either way great suggestion.  Probably should have posted this on one if the control or electrical forums.

Thanks.

This is what we use.  We've had a few issues (mostly our fault) and Bridgewerks helped us quickly.  They make a great product.  Not sure anyone with no experience with them can critique their product.

 

FWIW, we use their wireless controllers.  They remind me of key-less entry fobs.

 

Just for grins here's a video of the layout.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-VMBFTxkZ-w

 

Jay

Last edited by Jay C

Good advice from all.

 

When I converted to 2R, I looked at the Bridgewerks units - nice robust power supplies and controllers, with good recommendations from the garden railway folks.  I ended up with a GML throttle as I could power it with my existing ZW-L and it was "relatively" inexpensive, time tested, with nothing but good reviews .  For straight DC 2R locos, it worked perfectly.  I have subsequently moved to NCE DCC, but still use the ZW-L to power the command station.

 

I keep the GML because I want the DC option, especially on the test track with DC locos.

My power is typically a surplus 24 v stepdown transformer fed with a small Variac.  A Radio Shack bridge does the rectifying (under $3) and I fuse, switch, and smooth with surplus stuff.  Usually have about $25 invested when done.

 

But don't forget - you can stick that three dollar bridge rectifier right on the output of any old Lionel power pack.  You then need a DPDT switch to control direction.

 

The dumb thing is - the 3-rail crowd does exactly that, because motors are now all DC can motors.  The only difference is that 2-railers do it once, and 3-railers have to do it in each and every locomotive, with a slightly more complicated reversing switch in each.

Hi, I currently use an MTH Z-4000 to power my Atlas 2 rail track to my 2 rail DC engines.  I use one side of the Z-4000 for conventional AC and the other side for the 2 rail DC.  I added a bridge rectifier and a toggle switch for directional control.  It works great.  I used to use an HO DC power pack and Atlas 3 rail track to power my 2 rail DC engines but I did not have any switches on my loop.  Just ran the wires to the outside rails.  Just one thing though, if you have any switches on your layout you may NOT be able to run the DC power on your Atlas 3 rail track because, I think, the outside rails of the switches are electrically connected to each other.

 

Rick

Cheap will work too - higher current is needed if you are running old open frame motors or multiple engines.  YMMV depending upon a variety of factors, but if you are looking to try a single 1990's OMI engine, you can get by without dropping a lot of money into excess power.
 
Bob2 has a great idea - use your current ZW-L and a couple of cheap parts.  If you like 2R, upgrade later.
 
 
Originally Posted by WITZ 41:
Thanks to all for great advice.  Here's the 2R newbie question:

For simplicity's sake if I decide just to add a single smaller 2R loop is there anything wrong with a less expensive single unit like the MRC Throttlepack 9900?

 

Alright. Final post on this for a while until I have everything and set it up.

I've decided to go with the ZW-L route and a dedicated simple loop of Atlas O 2R track.  I've picked up an old "new stock" Lionel Large Scale DC Converter Box which seemed like the easiest route for a 2R beginner.

$_1

I'll update on a new post once I've figured everything out and tested it.

Thanks again for all the advice. I'm a little worried for my wallet and my marriage if I get too accustomed to the detail and realism of 2 Rail!

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Last edited by WITZ 41

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