3-Car Garage Layout

Oops... I forgot to say that the above track plan uses O72 minimums for all curves and switches. 

Looks like a great layout in the works. I would ask about access...pop ups...etc. and  I would want reverse loops. There is sooo much you can do in that space.

good luck and we like lots of photos.

GVDobler thank you for the kind words of encouragement!

When you said "I would ask about access...pop-ups...etc." were you referring to accessing the middlemost areas of the layout? If so, as of now I don't have a concrete plan for that. I plan to have the base height at 42" to allow for storage under the layout. That, or I am going to need a good divorce lawyer.  So even at 6' 3" I SHOULD be able to crawl under in specific areas to access pop-ups. 

If reverse loops would maximize my operating experience I am all for it. Where would you suggest I incorporate them? 

Pretty sure that is what he means; hatches....? It's hatches, climbing, or stretching for a derail or fallen tree, etc; choose a poison.

Reverse loops are nice for a "lazy looper"return  trip without swapping head for tail via shunting or calling on "the hand of god"😉  

I would browse a few books on layout design before starting to build.  It's really best if you can reach all of the track without having to crawl under.  I would strongly consider a "walk in," or "peninsular" style plan.  You're fortunate to have enough space to achieve your objectives!

Adriatic, copy that on the pop-up/hatches. Thanks!  As far as reverse loops are concerned, how would I incorporate those in the 2 outer mains? Would they really be necessary? I do see how that could add some interest to the alternative of just going round and round, but figured the turntable (crudely rendered like an asterisk to represent a 35" table) would serve to turn power when necessary. 

Thank you, Ted!

I did see the nice Lionel bridges brought up in another thread that can serve as lift-outs. I could try to use those to allow for some inner access. Maybe I'll try to rework the plan in a more "modular" format to help limit the need to 'reach' and just use backdrops. 

Time to strap on the thinking/design cap.

With a layout that big, You will need to crawl on it sooner or later. Make the benchwork strong enough to support your weight.

Any island style layout automatically constricts overall size and available curvature.  You many wish to try a walk in, no popup around the wall concept. 

Around the wall design automatically provides the largest track plan footprint for any theme in any room with space for generous curves.

Getting up on a platform or crawling on your knees gets real old real fast. 

Mianne makes a real nice rolling lift up.  Consider a design revamp.

Having done a few garage layouts something I found helpful was to seal off the garage door and stud a wall with two layers of R-15 fiberglass 3 1/2" insulation, 7" total yielding an R-30.  then drywall the inside.

12"  of insulation and a separate Trane HVAC in the ceiling with 6" of insulation in the  walls.

You can hang platform knees off the studs as in photo providing a leg free clear access / storage space wall to wall.

This is a 2 car garage with a 25 X 25  rear addition.

I agree with the idea of an aroiund the walls with one or two peninsulas rather than a big island layout.    

Also if operations means just running trains around and aruond and enjoying a beverage, multiple loops are great.    But if operations means switiching and some prototype ideas and changing engines and what not, a longer single track line with passing sidings is much more fun, maybe twice around like a gigantic folded figure 8 over and under.

John Armstrong was the dean of track planning to fit interesting prototype ideas in exisiting space.     I suggest getting some of his books and reading them for ideas.      The best in my opinion is "Track Planning for Realistic Operations".     It does not have track plans of whole layouts that I remember but describes all sorts of things like engine terminals, yards, passing tracks, junctions and whatnot needed to build a layout.    

Right now I think you have not provided enough yard class tracks.  Also an independent yard lead , ie one that can allow working the yard tracks without interfering with the mains, helps a lot.

I agree with Tom: consider an around-the-walls layout. In that space you could have around-the-perimeter with peninsulas into the middle space providing an even longer route while still being able to reach all track from the aisle(s). All kinds of possibilities.

On Edit: also agree with Jim. Great minds think alike or some such. 

You mention a 35" TT and round house.  That is a great feature but I have found them to really gobble up real estate.  Something to consider, do you want to model an engine facility or just turn an engine around?

Parallel tracks configured to conform to available space can be an efficient use of space. 

A one or two stall  engine house right next to the approach tracks keeps things tight.

Super short radial tracks helps with aisle space.

Finger modules with walk around ability can be a real asset.

I'm going to try and stay in a 1955-1965 time frame to give myself a little more flexibility with motive power.

Not to be pedantic but, while Big Boys were still running in 1955 most Mainline steam was gone. According to Wikipedia by 1955 American railroads had retired 90% of their steam locomotives. The last Big Boy revenue run was in 1959. PRR (the Standard Railroad of the World) removed steam locomotives from service in 1957 as did the New York Central. Santa Fe retired their last steam in 1959.

Elliot, Welcome to O gauge and the Forum!  You have come to right place!  I can write from experience as I left HO and came here 8 years ago.

I like the general concept of your plan.  Of course you posted it here for input to tweek or completely redo it.  I did the same thing.  Others have mentioned the need for access.  I advocate the around the walls and peninsula format over access popups or, Heaven forbid!, crawling on top of it.   I see a great photograph on your profile of what looks like a father and son enjoying time with a steam locomotive.  I am thinking you are the younger man with your father, but can't be sure.  I'm 63 and am off and on building a layout that is around of the walls/peninsula design.  No area will be over a 30-inch reach, and there will be minimal work under the layout.  If you are younger and are able to crawl under for wiring and to get to access hatches that is great!  Just remember, you may have an accident and not be able to do it for some time, where you could have gotten back to the layout sooner if you had access.  I post on this Forum a lot, and many folks know my series of physical problems I won't go into that have kept me from continuous layout building over a 5-year period.  That is even with an 'easy access' design.

Keep posting and we will help you in every way we can!!!

PRRJIM, TOM TEE, GEYSERGAZER ... Thank you for the insight and the ideas. As much as I would love to seal off the garage that is not an option. The Boss Lady has already made it clear that I need to find a way to still make the garage as operational as possible WITH the layout in there. That's another reason for deciding on a 40"-42" base height. It will allow for shelves below to put all the large totes full of seasonal nonsense cleanly out of sight. Plus our HOA is a little out of control, and they have a stipulation in the CCRs about NOT making the garage a 'living space.' Plus I might want to open it from time to time for additional viewing capabilities from the backside/garage door side.

GEYSERGAZER I realize that by the mid to late 50s dieselization was in full swing, but that also means I don't have to win the lottery to have a full stable of big UP articulated steam.  Especially since I have to try to play catch-up with the acquisition of equipment. 

I'm officially obsessing over this and have been reworking this completely. I got this far and then it dawned on me... My locomotive servicing facilities are going to be buried behind the yard. (Although it's not that far back there) On the flip side, if I move it to the front then it would impede switching in the yard. 

The door at the bottom could be left inoperable for the most part, making that a seldom used lift out and the water heater should be fine for a very long time **knock on wood**, but just in case I need to have a way to change it out should the need arise. I'll either need to build extensions off of the two shelves on either side of the door at the top to support the 30" span of the Lionel lift bridge or find some sturdy 36" bridges.

 

Mark, thank you very much for the warm welcome. I am, in fact, the younger man. That is my father next to me, and the main reason I am in need of a 12-step program.  I have been lurking for a while, and have seen some of the awesome work you've been doing. There are A LOT of really nice layouts and very helpful people here. I am excited to be sharing images of the build with all of you who have been so gracious to offer ideas, tweaks, and things to consider. 

@TrainsOnTheBrain your 2nd plan is a much better design.  If you make the benchwork sectional (or "modular" as some say) and not bolted to the wall, legally it's furniture and not a fixture, so your HOA can't say anything.  Your wife, on the other hand...!

Okay... I think I'm getting MUCH MUCH closer...

What say ye? 

I would be happy to have that layout plan myself if I had the room.    You have access to your water heater, access to the door at the top I take it.  You also have a nice long run, passing sidings, a nice yard, turntable, some industrial tracks, what more could we ask for.  I'm sure those who have an eagle eye will have some questions and concerns, but I think you are well on your way to building a railroad!!