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@trainnut56 posted:

Great to know, still have cinserns (spelling) on the switches.  Cheers Jim

Why? Our layout was all 100% Atlas, including switches. The one or two switches that I had trouble with (dead spots), I simply drilled a hole down through the table, and soldered a jumper wire from the appropriate main feed to that "dead spot", weathered the solder connection, and everything was fine again. No big deal.

I will play Devil's advocate here as I have about 150 ft of Atlas flex track. I did use this track in a previous test layout but ever ballasted it. As I build out my permanent layout re-using the Altas can be problematic when the little plastic nubs that hold the track to the plastic rails begin to break. Once a few of them are gone the integrity of that piece of track is questionable. The rails can be glued down to the plastic but I didn't want to take the time to do that.

I have only tried to bend Atlas flex track once, for a small 5 or 6 degree bend using 40" radius. I finally got it where I wanted it but it took almost a screw in every hole to keep that one piece in place.

For my permanent layout I gave up waiting for supplies of Atlas O track to be replenished and bought 2 cases of Gargraves Flex tinplate track. It is very easy to work with, plentiful, and costs a lot less than those nickel/silver rails. I don't really need outdoor track so I didn't buy GG stainless either.

I have only one Atlas O switch, a wye I use to access a two stall engine house that I have been switching manually. All other switches are Ross.

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