I bought a 3454 that wasn't working - love to bring stuff back to life   Haven't tore into one before and it appears there is little on the web.  The mechanism to eject the boxes is working, but the door won't open automatically.  The 6 position ratchet doesn't increment.  I manually incremented it and I'm guessing the lever that drives the door open and closed is broken.  I assume there is a pin from the lever that opens the door with the ratchet.  Does anyone have any pictures or drawings of this mechanism?

Thanks!

John

Original Post

There is no service manual pages on this car for one reason or another. This is a hard car to work on. It was not one of Lionel's best operating cars. There was a 'finger' that is easily broken off if adjusted 1 too many times that drops down in the cutout on the ratchet wheel. That opens and closes the door. The car takes more voltage on the first cycle to open the door. Then drop the voltage for the next 5 cycles so the crates don't fly 3 feet from the car. I have successfully soldered on a short piece of brass rod to replace the broken stamped finger. It has to be a strong solder connection as it is load bearing. When the mechanism is fully tuned, I can get the car to work properly 98 percent of the time. The mechanism works similar to an American Flyer reverse unit with large geared cog.

Thanks for the responses - the pics are a huge help BLBILLBOARDS.  Yep, I missing the tab on the arm that controls the door - broke off.  That make sense, that would provide some friction with the ratchet which would let it increment.  The brass rod idea seems solid CHUCK SARTOR.  I'll give that a go... I'm guessing the part isn't available by itself.  Thanks again for the help!

John

BlBillboards posted:

Hi John...   Don't know if these might help?   My car is old and beat, and looks like it has been worked on ALOT!  But here are photos of what mine looks like.

 

 

Terry

That sure looks like an e-unit pawl … laying down on the job!! 

George

Quick update.  I have a friend who helped me craft a new tab and braze it to the original part.  It works great - see pics.  Now I see the issue of needing more voltage to open the door.  What do you use to get higher voltage to the UCS / 6019 and how do you wire it?

Thanks for all the help!

JohnMy 3454 Parts-New TabMy 3454 Mechanism-New Tab-01My 3454 Mechanism-New Tab-02

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John,

You have a couple of choices here.  The remote control track (6019 and the UCS) normally get their voltage directly from the track.  Much of the time, one would simply stop the train engine so the operating car is on the the remote control track, make sure the engine in the "neutral" position, and then adjust the AC voltage to the track to control the voltage to the remote control track. 

The other option, which I do, is to wire the UCS directly to a dedicated transformer.  I then adjust the voltage as needed to operate the car / accessory.  One bit of caution, you have to be sure the power to the track and to the UCS are in phase (in sync). You will have no issues if you are using the same transformer to power the track as you are using to power the accessories. For example, using a ZW, and use the "B" or "C" power post to the UCS.  The large ZW handles power the posts "A" and "D" which is for normal track control.  However, if you are using a separate transformer, make sure the common is "common" between the transformers.  You can check this by using a volt meter between the two.

Let me know if you need more info.

Best, Dave

Dave G.

If you don't want to go Dave's way, just use track voltage,what I recommend. Turn the transformer up as needed on the first door open cycle then lower around 4 volts so the remaining cubes will drop out, instead of flying out of the car. Use a little grease on the edge to help a little. Good work on getting it fixed.

I'm using a 1033 on my test bench which isn't going to cut it.  I have a KW, but don't like to use it on my work bench due to it's size.  I was looking on Amazon and the Ring doorbell power supplies Output is 18VAC/500mA.  Has anybody had any experience using something like this to power an accessories.  Seems pretty nice for a test bench at a minimum.

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