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Phase 2: Body Mods

Since this is not only an electrical, TMCC or Railsounds project, but a complete body off resto-mod and 3R conversion, we can continue with the rest of the conversation back in the 3RS forum. 

One of the things that I'm looking to do is to lower the locomotive. Luckily, this seems like one I should be able to get through rather easily. (Hope I didn't just jinx myself)

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When I've done my diesel mods, I've strived to get the pilot down to at least the top shelf of the Kadee coupler gauge, if not down to the shelf for the trip pin. 

Since the body is die cast, and it sits on long legs in which screws come up through the bottom, it should be easy to trim these legs the 1/8" or so to get the drop. 

Again, luckily, there's plenty of room inside the bathtub for it to be lowered, without hitting the electronics. 

There will be one more thing that has t be done, and that is the smoke generator will also need to be lowered, by the same amount, because currently the brass outlet funnel of the smoke unit fits snugly against the inside of the body's funnel. 

As for the tender trucks, this again should be relatively easy, since I'll only need to machine the tops of the pedestals on which the retention screws sit. The kingpin screws are stepped, so they bottom out on the top of the truck, and this alloys with to staff of and rotate. 

Mine more thing that I've done, which is pretty mundane, is I've swapped the scale wheeled pilot truck for the stock piece. 

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One more body modification that was done, was the creation of a flat headlight lens, using UV cure epoxy, called Bondic. This is a thick liquid goo, that comes in a pen, and you just fill in the whole housing, while the shell is vertical and the let it self level. Once that is filled, I just used the UV LED on the repair pen, and it sets. 

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On the back end, you can we where the stock height is in comparison to the Kadee coupler gauge. 

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We shall see...

thanks!

-Mario

PS-how have you lowered your CommVan and we'd like to see some pictures?

 

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Original Post

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After already seeing the excellent improvements in performance with the new smoke unit, can motor, Super Chuffer, Chuff Generator, and new speaker, I'm VERY interested in seeing how this project ends.

I've always loved the scale Lionel Commodore Vanderbilt, but I think all this new upgrades and modifications will make it even better.

Thanks!

Today I ordered the pilot truck brake beams and shoes, cold water feed pump and hose for the fireman's side, and tender water scoop; all from the VL Hudson (thanks Ron for your inspiration).  

I need to do the math, but it looks like lowering the whole thing about 0.100" should get the tender buffer to the right height for a Kadee mount.

Thanks!

-Mario

PS- I was also thinking, if I ever find a deal on a dark one, I'll use this shell on a Mohawk to make the Rexall locomotive. 

 

Would it be possible to overspray thin coats of a darker gray (or black)  until you like the effect and wipe off after each coat or mask the factory lettering with good results?

Am thinking that the slightly different angles on the body plates might reflect light differently and give a really nice overall effect.

Last edited by c.sam

First, it was too bright, so I masked off the middle LED. 

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Then, in an effort to make them look less 'white', I used Kapton tape to attempt to change the color temperature of the LED. It was too green. 

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so, finally, I used a Testor's gloss yellow paint pen and put a tiny coating on the LEDs and it took the blue edge off. 

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Looks just right. 

Thanks,

-Mario

PS- after an unfortunate LED test, where the tether fell in the center rail, we no longer have sound. I'm assuming that I melted a wire in the tether, because I also do not have a back up light, and that is powered through the tether directly from the engine and doesn't run through the Railsounds board in the tender. 

Wish me luck. 

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Update...

just a lot of fine tuning; got the color for the inspection lights perfected (Testor's gloss yellow and orange paint pens). 

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Replacing the 6-pin troublesome tether with an MTH inline 10-pin. 

It will go where the stoker feed tube would be, under the tender and cab desks. 

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It's a much safer choice even though I'll only be using it for 5 channels (chuff, serial data, back up light and speaker wires). 

More to come...

thanks,

-Mario

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I was thinking of ways to add those before I put the "glass" on, including printing. But then I was thinking about having to keep them straight and alignment and scaling and cutting them out, so I said "nah".

And, No cab light... not big on them. 

I did take out the cast in window mullions and am going to fashion some sort of glass window, as well as the front and rear cab windows. We'll see how it goes. 

Mario,

I have tried to find the other posting you did covering the earlier modifications you did on the Vanderbilt, but to no avail.  Can you please post a link to your earlier posts as I too am looking at upgrade mods to my Vandy.  I am really impressed, and inspired, as others are, seeing your fine work.

Thanks....

Jesse    TCA   12-68275

texastrain posted:

Mario,

I have tried to find the other posting you did covering the earlier modifications you did on the Vanderbilt, but to no avail.  Can you please post a link to your earlier posts as I too am looking at upgrade mods to my Vandy.  I am really impressed, and inspired, as others are, seeing your fine work.

Thanks....

Jesse    TCA   12-68275

Sorry, Jesse.  They’re gone. 

Basically it’s a full rebuild using ERR cruise, a Timko can motor, GunRunnerJohn’s Super Chuffer & Chuff Regulator boards, Tang Band & laptop speakers, Atlas fan driven smoke unit, LED headlight and LED inspection lights. 

https://youtu.be/sG729NjM0l8

 

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Mario,  that would explain it!   LOL!!   Hey, thanks for the "under the hood" video.  I am familiar with ERR components and have upgraded many of my MTH premier engines to TMCC/RS with ERR.  Also familiar with John's products, that is where the video comes in and how well everything fits under the shell.  I have changed the can in K Line Berk and upgraded, along with the ERR Cruise M, may thing of doing so in the Vandy, as you did due to the improvements based on your experience and pleasure with it.   The work on the backhead looks great!  Find attached pic of the backhead in my Williams Dreyfuss 5450 which I plan on doing more later.

Again, thanks......

Jesse   TCAIMG_9143.jpg Williams NYC Dreyfuss Hudson 5450 backhead detail

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Mikado 4501 posted:

Ooooh, that's a bit of a downer there, Mario.

The original 700E had scale flanges to run on T-Rail track, so I think that's what you got. I think there were some people who had the spoked wheels (and corresponding axles) from the Gold Hudson that would've worked for the other Lionel Hudsons.

They look pretty close to me. 

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Dont we run on T-Rail?

-Mario

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Mario, 

I know this topic is well over two years old, but if you can help me explain the wiring arrangements to operate and control the original RailSounds 2/2.5 board (as well as the ElectroCoupler and back up light) with the new Cruise Commander, I'd really appreciate it.

I'm doing the same with the Chesapeake & Ohio Yellowbelly Hudson that came out a year before this locomotive, and they likely have the same wiring requirements.

So after our test run, it seems I had a dead Chuff Generator, and there was some mechanical difficulties from the road crew, so back to the shops @harmonyards. There, the mechanical shop was able to find some serious issues which were quickly dispatched.

some serious power…

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some serious weight for the tireless drivers…

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lowered to match the tender height…

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and some serious fine tuning…

next? Restore the awesome sounds…

Thanks Pat!

- Mario

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