4.5v dc power supply

One choice would be a computer power supply's 5 vdc tap with a diode at each building feed to drop the voltage to 4.5 vdc. They are very inexpensive, especially used. I power my Miller signs that way. At 300 to 400 watts, you can power a lot of buildings.

Thanks John

Could I use just one diode to drop the voltage prior to the bus and have a 4.5v bus? What diode would I need?

I’m also told that you can remove the 4.5v board from their buildings and run them direct wired at 3v. Would the diode be able to drop the 5v to 3v or is that too big of a drop?

i apologize for the stupid questions, but it’s new to me and I’m interested in learning how to make it work.

Like John, I use a computer supply cannibalized from dead desktops. Not even sure you need a diode to drop the voltage as long as the 5V is regulated which it is in a computer supply. I know Miller says 5v is OK as long as it doesn't exceed 5V as it does in unregulated supplies. 

Pete

I just found this while you were replying. If the 5v is adjusted to 4.5v, it should have plenty of power - right?

For $20, it seems like a good substitute for multiple wall warts.

Is the board you have on top of a computer power supply homemade or is it sold like shown?

In all honesty we’ve powered menards buildings with a straight 5VDC with no issue. We’re talking about a .5V difference to power lights. If anything else was involved I’d be triple checking everything. But it’s just LEDs that already have individual current limiting resistors. 

Ok, so a 400w computer power supply with the 5v wire feeding a bus seems to be the fix.

i can make my 5.5x2.1 plug wires for the connection to the buildings.

Thanks gents.

@zhubl posted:

In all honesty we’ve powered menards buildings with a straight 5VDC with no issue. We’re talking about a .5V difference to power lights. If anything else was involved I’d be triple checking everything. But it’s just LEDs that already have individual current limiting resistors. 

Usually supplies can be adjusted +/- 10% or so.  I would suggest an inline fuse off the power supply feed terminal "just in case" (OK probably fancy overkill) unless the supply has an internal current limiting foldback circuit, which it probably won't.

A half volt shouldn't cause harm as I can't imagine the buildings being designed explicitly to run on exactly 4.5V, given that in early days these buildings were running on cheapy unregulated supplies, whose output varied all over the place depending on the loadings.

To simplify things, there are adapters that just plug into the power supply's connectors: $8 on Amazon

$18 on Amazon

Thanks John!

Miller sells one that is connected to a transformer.  It outputs 4.5V dc as needed and can power 10 signs.  I have one and it works great.  The price was very low even though I don't recall right now what it was

walt

i should have been a bit clearer.  instead of saying 'to a transformer' better would have been to say 'to YOUR transformer".  it has a wide-range of input voltage allowed.

@Legion JD posted:

 

Without having to make one, is there a good 4.5v dc power supply that will power a dozen or so Menard's buildings?

...

While you undoubtedly mean a dozen "average" buildings, Menards now lists power requirements for their buildings.  Finally!

The point being it should only take a minute or two to do a quick back-of-envelope calculation to estimate your power requirements.  I find the World HQ 5,000 mA somewhat hard to believe, but taken at face-value that's a whopping 22 Watts.   Put a dozen HQ buildings to model Manhatten and you're talking 60 Amps!  Anyway, you get the idea.

Separately, if you review search earlier OGR threads, most guys drive the Menards buildings at less than 4.5V.  Maybe 4V, 3.5V, or even less.  It's personal preference.  If this is of interest, suitable diodes are, say, 10 cents a piece and are an economical way to fine-tune the brightness of a particular building or cluster of buildings.  Each diode drops about 3/4 Volt and you can put multiple diodes in-line (in series) to drop more.

Keep it as simple as possible using any AC toy train transformer use a cheap full wave rectifier as seen here,  Full Wave Rectifier for Converting AC to DC Power .

I picked up several of these at Michael's after Halloween for 75% off. You can light three buildings from each.

To answer a question skipped; General Purpose Rectification Diode(s). Susan's BR is basically four diodes (only two are in use , for a .75v+.75v= aprox 1.5v drop.)   A higher amp diode will stay cooler to the touch than a tiny one fyi (choose over transformer max output or over total LED draw at least).

"Only half a volt" is all it may take to cook an led too LEDs really don't tolerate over voltage well, so basically your hoping ALL the buildings are made with 6v+ diodes -vs- 4.5v diodes (because that is what was available that week at the factory, and could work too )   I'd shoot for under 4.5v .

One advantage I discovered with the computer power supply is that you get superfast circuit protection. I use 24 awg to feed all my accessories, and smaller wire for drops like led street lights or traffic signals. To protect small wire you need a very low amp breaker. I have a 3 amp supplying everything, but the PS trips first in a short.

“General Purpose Rectification Diode”

Can you recommend a higher amp diode from Amazon to drop the volts by .75? 

I’m limited on my parts availability, so I use them for free shipping. 

Legion JD: Look for "diode 1N4003" on Amazon.

Well, the 1N4003 is only good for an amp, if you're doing a larger building or multiple buildings, you might as well step up to at least a 3A diode, they're dirt cheap.

eBay: 173823671460, $1.89 for 10 free shipping from US location.