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I didn't have access to a 3-pole molex, and found that a 4-pole would work.

With its 10-amp capacity, the 180 powerhouse is same wattage/amerage as a postwar ZW, so I use it to drive 2 TIU circuits.  I use a terminal block to make the split.  Be sure to first phase the output with your other transformers; it's a simple matter to switch the output leads if need be when the PH180 is connected to a terminal block.

I made up a molex to plug into the end of the cable that came with the PH180.

But if you really want to save money, just cut the cable that came with it, strip the ends, and connect them to your terminal block or directly to your TIU posts wrapped around the posts, taking care to phase it with your other transformers. (On mine, I had to reverse the wires to phase with my Z4000 & other transformers.  I use crimp connectors for wires going to TIU).  I use my PH180 to drive 2 TIU circuits (yards), on which rarely would there more be two locos working in the aggregate.  Replaced a PW ZW, at much less space.

Last edited by RJR

A link to another thread.   Part was designed to connect PH 180's,  or older PH 135 bricks, to the TPC300/400 (silver box)   IMO.  Lower Far right in picture. It can be used to connect (2) Bricks to (one) TPC300/400. Output of the TPC300/400 connects to the track(s).     P.N.    6SP2983010

A different look with (two) PH 180 bricks.  Lower left, almost on the floor, this picture.  Track power from the TPC400 (silver box) supplies the input terminals of the TIU upper left. 

Last edited by Mike CT
Moonman posted:

When you cut the cord, which one is hot?

if you look at the cord with the plug end has 3 holes the wire with the rib on side of wire is the hot wire you can get some pin connectors and make your own cable any length you need.  note the plug has a v shape at one end hot wire is 3 from that and common wire is the center hole. I showed the type of pin I am referring to not sure of its exact size but I used this instead of buying the connector cable from lionel. hope this helps you and others as well

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I have always cut the plugs off and soldered on spade lugs which accommodate any and all toy train terminals. As Frank noted the telltale rib on the cord is Hot. (in the little "09 space-deprived attic room the  plumbing helped get the "noodles" organized)

The 180 PoHos with the red/white "phased" labels located on the lower shelf of my early condo layout were a pair of the very first PoHos shipped that were out of phase with the toy train world. I slotted a skinny screwdriver and opened both, found adequate slack and cut the cord well inside the strain knot, slid on 3 sizes of shrink wrap, reversed and soldered the 120 VAC conductors, shrunk and taped and reassembled. Later the adapters became available and I sent them to my  fix adviser, Jim Barrett for decorating his Christmas tree.

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Last edited by Dewey Trogdon

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