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My wife dragged me to the Hallmark store today and I was pleasantly surprised to see something I could use on my standard gauge layout. Hallmark has produced a lighted tin building as a Christmas decoration that is about the right size for standard gauge. I bought one, picture below, and in the future will convert it to look a little more real for my train layout like I did with the one I bought last year in Michael’s, also pictured below.

tin 4tin 3tin 2Tin 1tin house 1

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Thanks for the tips!  Just bought one on sale from Hallmark's store for $7.95 plus shipping.  Hope it's rugged enough to stand moving from one SGMA show layout to another SGMA show layout.

It looks similar to the galvanized metal candle holders that my Norwegian grandmother used to decorate her fireplace mantel with during the holiday season.

Bob Nelson

Scandinavian Zinc House Lanterns

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Last edited by navy.seal
waynew posted:

Wow!  Those buildings are terrific.  Have you any other pictures you could share.  Nice collections.  thanks, Wayne Walter

Wayne,

Assuming you are referring to the picture I posted, I wish I owned those buildings but no such luck.  Rather, I found the picture online after doing an image search looking for "Scandinavian metal house lanterns" like those my grandmother owned.  Do the search yourself and you will find online pictures of many more galvanized zinc building lanterns.

Bob Nelson

 

 

Last edited by navy.seal

Went to the Hallmark store last weekend and they had a couple of the tin buildings. Oicked up one for 50% off of the $15.95 price ($7.97). What a deal!

Going to do what George S is doing. Remove the rood paint and mask and paint as I go. Planning to apply a frosted plastic to the inside of the house for the windows add a new light system Try to see what to do with the roof to make it a bit more realistic/tinplate, apply a wrinkle paint to it? Should be a quick/fun project.

RonH posted:

Went to the Hallmark store last weekend and they had a couple of the tin buildings. Oicked up one for 50% off of the $15.95 price ($7.97). What a deal!

Going to do what George S is doing. Remove the rood paint and mask and paint as I go. Planning to apply a frosted plastic to the inside of the house for the windows add a new light system Try to see what to do with the roof to make it a bit more realistic/tinplate, apply a wrinkle paint to it? Should be a quick/fun project.

Found that my local store still had 4 left from the holidays, so I bought one and I may go back for the rest. Also grabbed one of those Wow Toys HO Christmas sets for $8.00 (Amazon wants $30.00). Great 1st train gifts for grandkids and great-grandkids and the whistle will drive their parents absolutely batty.

wow toys christmas express

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I started with a base coat of Rustoleum White Gloss + Primer, but it did not hold. I thought I prepped the surface ok by washing it. However, the paint flaked off when I masked it for a different color and it bubbled when I tried to paint over it, even after over a week of drying. Maybe there was a lacquer coat on the tin that I didn't get off first?

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I stripped and repainted today.

I would like to paint the doors and shutters red and the window trim white. It is tricky to mask, because several of the windows are curved.

George

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Last edited by George S

Stopped by Hallmark today and picked up another tin house for 50% off ($8.00), now I have 3.
From Georges experience with the paint falling off I will use a industrial type Scotch-Bright # 7447, then give it a wash in lacquer thinner. Once dry I will use Rustoleum's metal etching primer and proceed with a lot of masking. The roof I picked up a Rustoleum brownish texture paint and with to the scallop edges and ridge of the roof in copper to simulate copper. The bottom of the roof will be done in a black semigloss. I will give the window areas a spray of white and once dry will mask the windows off and spray the main part of the house with a light green color and the gables will be done in a darker green. The two shutters on the end will be done with the lighter green, Just a lot of masking and waiting for the paint to cure between coats and masking. I will do the other buildings the same way but will substitute the greens for Blues of tans. Thank again Pete from Kansas for alerting us about these tin plate houses.

RonH posted:

Stopped by Hallmark today and picked up another tin house for 50% off ($8.00), now I have 3.
From Georges experience with the paint falling off I will use a industrial type Scotch-Bright # 7447, then give it a wash in lacquer thinner. Once dry I will use Rustoleum's metal etching primer and proceed with a lot of masking. The roof I picked up a Rustoleum brownish texture paint and with to the scallop edges and ridge of the roof in copper to simulate copper. The bottom of the roof will be done in a black semigloss. I will give the window areas a spray of white and once dry will mask the windows off and spray the main part of the house with a light green color and the gables will be done in a darker green. The two shutters on the end will be done with the lighter green, Just a lot of masking and waiting for the paint to cure between coats and masking. I will do the other buildings the same way but will substitute the greens for Blues of tans. Thank again Pete from Kansas for alerting us about these tin plate houses.

Sounds like it will be beautiful!

You might want to try a Jasco stripper on it. It may be that it had a lacquer coat that I couldn't see.

Hi Pete, I have 3 houses. ToOK the roof of of one and used a commercial scotch Brite on it and going to wipe it down with lawyer thinner. The window will be done in a frosted plastic and will replace the interior light. I also have plans to block the series of hole on the sides between the first and second floor. Planning get to primprove themail roof today after I make a wood chimney. I will post some pictures on the progress. Thanks again for theverything heads up on the buildings. I got mine for 50 percent off of the 15.95 price.

I started mine as mentioned earlier. I recommend starting with a stripper.

There is a lot of detail to consider and the tops of some of the windows are curved. This is going to be a challenging job for me. I got a base coat on, but have put it on the shelf for a while. I prefer to mask and paint, but my painters tape is too sticky. I need to get a more sensitive version of tape. I had planned to mask the curved windows and trim the tape with an Exacto. I want white window trim. The first time I tried this, I lost paint when removing the tape. I think it was because I didn't strip/prep the metal first.

George

George S posted:

I started mine as mentioned earlier. I recommend starting with a stripper.

There is a lot of detail to consider and the tops of some of the windows are curved. This is going to be a challenging job for me. I got a base coat on, but have put it on the shelf for a while. I prefer to mask and paint, but my painters tape is too sticky. I need to get a more sensitive version of tape. I had planned to mask the curved windows and trim the tape with an Exacto. I want white window trim. The first time I tried this, I lost paint when removing the tape. I think it was because I didn't strip/prep the metal first.

George

Hi George:

I use the Tamiya model mashing tape for the edges and the blue painters tape to fill in the large areas that are not on the edge. I started today and used the scotch bright and wiped it down with lacquer thinner. gave it a both side of the roof a coat of rustoleums etching primer and painted the window areas white (the window trim with mashing later). Will paint the scallop edges copper and the ridge copper on Monday. I have a texture paint for the top of the roof and that should be done by Thursday. Yes you are correct, a lot of detail to mask especially if you want to leave all the window trim white like I m going to.

Update on my building progress:

Started painting one of my Hallmark houses. (have 3 that cost $8.00 each).
The roof is almost done.
The roof and building were scrubbed with a scotch brite # 7447, then washed/wiped in a lacquer thinner.
After it dried I sprayed both side of the roof and the building portion with the Rustoleum etching primer. Next step was to spray the building windows and the underside of the roof white. This is for the window and roof eves.
I masked the areas under the roof where it would be visible when on then I sprayed the roofs peak and scroll work copper to resemble copper work.
The Rustoleum copper paint is very thin and need to have a slow build up so it will not run
After this copper paint dried I masked those area and sprayed a Rustoleum multi color texture paint for the roof areas.
This texture paint come out real fast and I did one side of the roof making sure it was flat so it would not run.
Once dried I gave it a slight mist with the spray. It almost looks like a sandpaper.
Nest step is to start masking the widow trim to keep it white. Some of this should be done by next week. The building will be sprayed with Light blue and the gable portion will be in a darker blue (Light blue shutters).
In doing this with all the masking, it is best to have the paint completely dry before masking.

I will be adding a chimney and will post a some info on how I will mount it. The chimney will be painted with a gray type texture paint.
This is my first of the 3 buildings that I have, I will be doing some modifications on the next
By the way this texture paint could be used in different landscaping applications

 

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Did anyone make any progress on their Halmark Tin Buildings and if so post pictures.

Well I made some progress on one of the the Halmark Tin Houses that I picked up after Christmas and would like to share.

Last time here I showed and explained on how I painted the roof see that post that I did.

I used scotch bright # 7447 on the building then wiped it down with lacquer thinner (next time I will scrub more with the scotch bright. Prime the building with rustoleum etching primer then painted it white. After the paint was dry fir a week or so I started the process of masking the window, what a chore. This project is a good one to help enhance your painting/masking skills. The Tamaya masking tape was to wide for the square windows so  I had to cut it in half. Once the window were framed with the tape I completely filled them in with masking tape.
I decided to leave a upper white border around the building and masked that off two. All of the other window were also completely masked off. I then sprayed the building portion with a aqua color paint and also sprayed the upper shutters the same color.
Once this was dried I removed all the window masking except for the gable windows. I masked off the shutters and the building to spray the gables a light blue. When doing this it is best to mask off windows on the inside to eliminate any over spray on the windows.
Once dried I removed all tape and placed the roof on to take some pictures.
Next step is to touch up any areas on the house with a brush and the appropriate color the clear all with a satin clear paint (except the roof).

A sheet of clear plastic will be put in for the windows with curtains added.
A light over the door will be added. A different interior light will be installed, just trying to figure out on how I will run the wires.
Not sure if I will make a landscaped base for the building.
There will be a smoke stack attached to the roof and I have a great Idea on how to do it. I tried with a piece of ½ X ½ maple but the drill walked in the wood and treading wood with a 4-40 tap does not come out that good. Planning to replace the wood with a piece of aluminum square stock. I will post this after this has been completed.

I decide to turn this building into the “Standardville Town Dance Hall” (making a sign or two with “Hours of operation” and “Hall for Rent”).

 

Since I have two more tin buildings I may paint one white or cream add a steeple and make it a church with stained glass windows.

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Just wondering if anybody has started or is working on their Hallmark Tin House?
If so, show some pictures
Below is my Chimney idea. I will be using 5/8 square stock aluminum for the chimney.

I tried this wood but the drill walked and tapping in wood with a 4-40 tap does not give the best result.
Not sure how long or the location on the roof (got to check building codes. LOL

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I finally got around to painting my Hallmark House today and as others have mentioned I did have some paint adhesion issues. I should be able to touch them up so that from a few feet away they will be unnoticable. Also when I mount the hose on a scenic plot I'll hide the low touch ups with hedges and bushes. I'm also looking for something to simulate vines growing on the side of a building to hide the other touch ups. Next I'll need to make some curtains and maybe a floor divider but it is stating to look pretty good.HH4HH3HH2HH 1

THis last picture shows the house with the roof on and some of the paint touch ups done.

HALLMARK HOUSE

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Pete in Kansas posted:

I finally got around to painting my Hallmark House today and as others have mentioned I did have some paint adhesion issues. I should be able to touch them up so that from a few feet away they will be unnoticable. Also when I mount the hose on a scenic plot I'll hide the low touch ups with hedges and bushes. I'm also looking for something to simulate vines growing on the side of a building to hide the other touch ups. Next I'll need to make some curtains and maybe a floor divider but it is stating to look pretty good.THis last picture shows the house with the roof on and some of the paint touch ups done.

 

Looks great! These houses are a bear to mask and the process of painting/masking take a lot of time.
Question: What will; you be doing with the series of holes/dots along the two sides?
I was planning on blocking these areas out by painting this area on the widow plastic with a different color than the building sign.

I used the Tamaya masking tape that comes in the dispenser and had no problem with paint pulling off. Prep is very important with the final was down. Use a commercial scotch bite # 7447 (making sure all arias show scrub markings) and wash it down with a lacquer thinner. I also left the building on my furnace for about a week before the next coat of paint. The masking was removed about 8 hours after paint as if it was longer and the paint was completely harden it would pull of adjacent areas beyond the taped lines.

Will be using single large plastic sheets for each side instead of making individual windows. This will be easier to glue on with the "GOOP GLUE".
For the curtains a paper crimper  will be used for making the curtains out of varios color paper then glued onto the plastic. Curtains will be larger than windows to allow glue areas avoiding the window section itself.
My building will be , ,   ,  .
All signs will be printed on matte photo paper glued onto styrene sheet. The signs than will be glued onto the building in various locations. A landscape base will be made. A single bulb will be used inside with a lamp outside on the building shinning down on the buildings front.
Your idea of putting in a floor/divider is a good idea. There are a lot of window to worry about and I do not know if I will block some of them or not. Fun project.
My next one will be a church and I just picked up some brass sheet for the steeple.

 

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Pete in Kansas posted:

I finally got around to painting my Hallmark House today and as others have mentioned I did have some paint adhesion issues. I should be able to touch them up so that from a few feet away they will be unnoticable. Also when I mount the hose on a scenic plot I'll hide the low touch ups with hedges and bushes. I'm also looking for something to simulate vines growing on the side of a building to hide the other touch ups. Next I'll need to make some curtains and maybe a floor divider but it is stating to look pretty good.HH3HH 1

THis last picture shows the house with the roof on and some of the paint touch ups done.

 

Pete,

The paint loss is what happened to me. Your touch ups look good.

George

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