Looking for a Part

Still looking for this part...

I have some old RK engines. I'm not sure if they would be the same?

I will go look.

Barry if you cant find it, you could take the other side off if it's the same and cast it with silicone mold and cast with black plastic and maybe cut the piece to fit.

Joe,

Please let  me know - thanks!

Shurlock1,

It's a little more complicated, since the part is threaded on the inside for the screw that secures the side rods. However, it may still be doable.

Regardless, thanks for the idea!

Barry, sorry it took so long as I have company. I was also hoping a tech would post as I am not one. I did look over many steam engines I have.

 It appears that part might be unique to only the A5!!

I don't see any other steamer I own with that part. The closest would be an Allegheny, but I did not take it apart to verify the part is separate of the wheel. It does look like it is shaped differently anyways.

 So I believe that this part is only used on your engine making it rare?

Sorry, Joe

 BTW, I could attempt that casting of the part for you if nothing else is available.

I do have an A5 in great condition!

Joe,

The part should be the same for the small steam switchers (0-4-0, 0-6-0 and 0-8-0) and possibly some others with the same wheel size, both Premier and Rail King.

I'l let you know about the casting if I can't get the part.

Thanks!

This maybe a stupid question, but Marty F helped me get a eccentric crank assembly for a Texas type from MTH.

Have you asked Marty for help?

Trainz had many extra MTH parts. Recently the listing has gone away? Maybe still, they would have it?

Any MTH part number I could help search for?

I lost the available part drawings when my computer went south. Urrggg.

My 2 larger old RK steam has the wheel part cast right in.

Joe,

Marty struck out and the part is not available separately from MTH. It's only available as part of the entire driver block assembly. 

Barry,

If you know a machinist, he can turn a plug out of steel or brass, drill the center & thread it. Good luck.

Dave,

Thanks for the suggestion.

Barry

One option is to cast the part in place using JB  Kwik Weld.  Find a nut that has the correct thread size for the driver screw.  The nut is probably metric. You may need to file down the sides of the nut so it fits into the hole.  Run a screw through the nut, and use the side rod to hold the nut in the proper spot.  Make sure the screw is perpendicular to the face of the driver.  Use washers so the nut is flush with the outside surafce of the driver.  

Them working from the backside, use a toothpick to apply just enough JB Kwik Weld to hold the nut.  Let the JB cure.   Remove the screw so you can get the side rod free.  Coat the screw with WD 40 and screw it back in.  Tape a piece of cardboard covered with wax paper to the back of the driver.  Then fill the remaining volume between the nut and the hole with JB Wik Weld so the nut is solidly in place. 

I have never done this for a driver, but I have done similar things for truck bolsters

John,

That's a good idea! I fact, it might be even a bit easier than you describe.

Since two sides of the hole are flattened, I should be able to file down a nut with a right-sized thread, press fit it into the hole and just use a spot of JB weld to secure it so that it can be later removed, if necessary. I don't believe that it would be necessary to remove the wheel to get this done.

Does that sound reasonable?

Thanks!

Barry

Sure does sound reasonable, give it a try!  As soon as you get into it I am sure you'll figure out the easiest way to secure the nut.  By the way, not only do you not need to remove the wheel, you don't want to. Otherwise you'll have to deal with making sure the driver is clocked properly. 

Still looking for this part...

Barry, there is a railking 0-8-0 on ebay right now listed for parts....its got a pretty low opening bid....think it ends tomorrow ...the listing number is 232408289094 .............if the railking shares your parts, there's a donor with a plethora of parts....I was gonna bid on it, but heck I got more locos to fix right now to keep me busy for a while....go get it!

Thanks - I'll look at it!

Barry,..........did you get that 0-8-0?....it only went for 39 bucks plus shipping...

No, I passed on it. There was no way to identify exactly what model it was, or even if the engine and tender matched up. I noticed that the tender had a manual coupler on it so most likely it was a Locosound engine.

Regarding the part, MTH has advised me that they should have the part coming in in a couple of weeks.

Barry,  

Did you get a wheel?  The 0-6-0s and the 0-8-0s are different sizes.  I need two front drivers for an 0-8-0.

Dave

Dave,

Actually, I found the part that was "lost" on the floor under my workbench. However, I still have spares coming from MTH when their supplier sends them from Asia.