700e hudson parts

Thanks Harmon.

Lionel sent me the 700e diagram.  With parts list on their site.

What I'm missing is

Part. 690.700e.218. And

690.700e.066

And 690.700e.219..217

If I can get them. Fine. If not.  This works.

 @riki , I guess you missed the Lionel Support link to that document was posted yesterday...

bmoran4 posted:

 We all should be working off of the 6-18005 as broken down here: https://www.lionelsupport.com/...94-8d1d-48591eea334f and here https://www.lionelsupport.com/...201-8005Complete.pdf

Thanks b4.

We are on same page now.

You can try forum sponsor @S AND W for the parts you are seeking. Bill is pretty responsive to email: http://www.sandwparts.com/Parts%20List/6-XXXX-XXX.pdf

Ok ..thanks

riki, looking at the photos you’ve posted, and the parts list you got from Jeff, some of the parts you are looking for, you’re not going to be able to add them .......looks like Jeff sent you eccentric assemblies 763-216 & 217.....these are not the “fancier” 700E type eccentric assembly that has the extra arms to add things like the valve stems, the lubricator lever, and the combination lever.....your rotating assembly as I see in the pics, has more in common with the 785 Hudson ( 6-18002 ) then a 700E......unless you’re trying to go back and replace all of the eccentric parts, you can’t add the others...they all link off that specific 700E type eccentric assembly............Pat

Pat. Thanks

Buying the other rods to have. 700e. 216 ..217 Plus lubricator.

The pick ups are hard to find.. Might have to mod a diesel pick up.

The side rods were a pain. Had to shim.

I think the blue on threads. Is to turn the screw in a little. To set clearance.

I took it off cause I didn't want to cross thread ..it felt tight going in. 

This thing is going to be a crawler.  Using 3/4 stack. Motor . just ran it holding it 

The 700e also has more hand rails and piping. More trim in general.

Hudson guys.

What is the size of screw for the turbo generator

And is only one used?

Thanks..

Hold it.. Ok...turbo goes on left. 

What I was looking at ..is they put the screw for it on other side of page. By the reach rod.

That part that track rod goes into is that cast into the frame?.

I don't see a part number for it

Ladders are not on yet. Waiting for other parts for under the boiler

Also need that trim that goes in front of exhaust stack.

Had to drill the holes for ladders and grab rails. Pain.

Even into cab.

Not quite a Hudson....

Had to modify an FM pick up 

Just need an e unit . smoke unit ..the lever is tough to find.

Get the e unit in and I will test run.

This will be marked 

700773.

I'm a little late to the Hudson party, but have a couple of comments. Where to start.....

 To answer Bmoran's question, The 2 center wheel eccentric crank screws look the same in the above picture, but not. The 610-8005-527 screw is american SAE thread. It is used on drive wheels that are pressed on the axle. The 610-8045-527 version is metric thread and used on wheels that screw on the axle, starting with the Commodore Vanderbilt 4-6-4.

Picture #1 is pick-up assemblies and rollers. Since you have already mounted FM pick-ups, all that is needed is to change to rollers. They will fit the diesel pick-ups.

#2 is the correct smoke lever assembly.

Picture #3 and 4 are the valve stem and oilier linkage. These parts will not mount on the 763 valve gear supplied by Jeff. The valve stem is not even visible behind the valve guide casting. You could leave them off and no one would notice.

The power reverse cylinder is mounted with a #3-48 x 5/16 phillips oval head screw.

Below are some close up pictures of the valve gear that I added to a stock 783 some years ago. I added as many 700E parts that was possible while keeping the cast wheels for magne-traction.  I took out the electronic whistle board and added a 773 sound card.

Test ran it.. Maybe little fast. But broke a drive rod.

It fell off the track

Did the drive rod hit the head of the bolt on the side rod?

Dave looks that way. 

14 volts without piston rod

Armature is getting hot.  After about a 15 run. 

Armatures run hot. A postwar armature is probably rated at 60 degrees C, or about 140 degrees F.  A modern armature could be rated even higher.  You know you are in trouble when either smoke comes out of the motor or the solder on the armature coil attachments melts and is flung out.   If it is not so hot that you can hold your finger on it, it should be okay. 

That's the problem. Touch it and it's hot. Can't keep the finger there long. The motor is new 3/4 stack. I might send it to hannon. Have him look at it.

Maybe bump up to full 1 inch stack. I have an 1 inch or 1-1/4 stack around somewhere. I had Bob wind for my STD motor I was working on.

Make sure your mechanism turns free....and nothing is binding. Remove the motor mount bolt and slide the motor back far enough so you can rotate the worm shaft with your finger tips. Should spin smooth through a full rotation. Any spots that bind are going to result in poor performance and overheating. Also check the motor spins nice and smooth by hand. Infact, that locomotive when all assembled, should be back driveable....in other words, you should be able to rotate the wheels by hand with motor and all rods installed....it might be that all the parts are so new it just needs to break in....if all checks ok, you could fashion a way to suspend the drivers off the rails and allow it run for a while to facilitate a break in period use jumper wires to run to the hot & common.....in your video, it doesn’t sound abnormal for a coffee grinder motor....😉.........Pat

I interpret Riki's first picture different. Hitting a side rod screw will not cause the rod to snap like that. Did it snap the first time you ran it under power, or did the rod break when it fell over? What transformer are you using?

Thanks Pat.

Chuck. It was running. A few laps before it fell off track.

The side rod screw was loose. So I had to shim it.

Maybe I should get another side rod and file it down .. Never thought about it bring to thick.

Cause you can't tighten the screw ..otherwise you tighten the side rod to wheel.

That rod would stretch a mile before it broke like that....the small end or the big end would have opened up before it broke like that....there has to be some extenuating circumstances for that failure....riki, did you shave the back side of the rod to clear something? ....like the rod bolt?....that’s a crazy break........Pat

No, I'm not saying the rod would stretch, but buckle from the piston rod jamming in the cylinder hole, from it not being drilled deep enough. But if it ran around for a while before it broke, that's not it.  If you can't tighten the side rod screw down completely without the rod binding, it's not the right screw. I wouldn't file the rod down any. What transformer are you using?

Yeah, I’d agree with that Chuck, it surely would bow .....It is a sheetmetal rod he’s using.....not the cast rod...I’d think it would have even kicked it out of the cross head guides and maybe snapped off the pin on the crosshead before shearing a rod like that....Pat

700E connecting rod and main rods are cast. I wonder if the rod bushings are installed in the connecting rods? To my eyes it looks like the rod bowed inward then snapped. I see no scraping or gouge marks where the rod broke.

I vote for the side rod screw backing out and chopping that rod.  I bet you can find munch marks near the break.

The forward crankpin is always problematic - our five foot gauge doesn't help clearances.  Note that the otherwise nice MTH Hudson has off-center crosshead guides and piston rod holes.

Yes, file the rod and bolt head.  Make sure that it has clearance with driver shoved as far to the side as it will go.

Reproduction connecting rods are stamped sheet metal Chuck....he got them from Jeff.....I can’t tell what the main rods are from the pics........Pat

He might have gotten cast rods....looking back at riki’s shopping list from Jeff, it doesn’t say whether or not they’re repros..........I’d bet Bob is right ....the forward bolt must have had a field day eating the rod....and if it was cast, it probably made short work of it.........Pat

If the broken rod was stamped, it would't have broke like that.

True that Chuck....I’d like to see the back side of the rod ...see if something helped the failure along.......Pat

Thanks guys

It looks cast. I just received the cast wheels from Jeff.

The end wheels have a stud.. Where as the 700 are screwed into the wheel

I like the cast wheels. I hear they are a pain to deal with.

So but. . Will go that route.

I threaded a washer on the screw. That let me tighten the screw.  The washer fits behind side rod. Was a little trying but I got.   Ran fine .except for Armature..

One heavy tender. I have a horn switch that I will have to add to get whistle.

Tender was a gift.

Have a question. Can the 773 wheel fit on the 700 axles..

Looks like the 773 holes are larger. 

No problem tightening with the 773 wheels. Side rod moves plenty of clearance.

Well. Can't swap the wheels.

But took the thins apart .. The wheels still were not turning that freely.

Now they do.

I filed the inside of the side rod. Down pasted the casting marks. Rolls freely.

And I can tighten the screws. No shims.

I don't understand what you are doing. Are you planning to replace the spoked drivers on the chassis you have shown us with solid cast drivers? Why?