Chuck.. I like the solid cast wheels. And I was going to magnetraction . but can't do it
So I'm stuck with spokes. Unless I. Can use the 773 axles. Then magnetize just the solid wheels. If that even would work.
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Chuck.. I like the solid cast wheels. And I was going to magnetraction . but can't do it
So I'm stuck with spokes. Unless I. Can use the 773 axles. Then magnetize just the solid wheels. If that even would work.
Riki, If you try to use other parts from other engines you really need to be up on your game. You are opening Pandora's box. If you try to use the 773 wheels, you are going to have to change the axles, which means you are going to have to change the axle bearings in the frame. Then you are going to have to change the worm wheel on the geared axle. Then you are going to have to re-quarter the wheels on the axles. It would have to exact the first time, as you only get one, maybe two, attempts as the wheel will work loose on the axle and slip when the engine is under load. The quartering must be precision as the rod bushings leave no room for any slop. This is probably why Lionel sells the frame with the wheels already installed by a machine.
Thanks Chuck.
Yeah I'm stuck with a mess. Leaving as is.
Roy boy I might paint the wheels red too.
It is, after all, a hobby. I have a Tuscan K4, and a purple three cylinder 4-10-2.
There is a actuating arm that is attached to the crosshead that pushes the lever forward and gravity brings it back.
Thanks Chuck.
the one I have binds in the steam chest. It actually lifts off the guide. So the rod must be off center.
But that's hard to tell. Cause I checked. I'm using one without that bar. And no problem.
I'll take a picture.
If it doesn't go in all the way, maybe that caused your rod to snap? Run a drill bit through the piston hole and see if the piston rod will finish the travel, on both sides.
The right side broke.
I have the piston working now. But won't know till I run it.
Trying to figure out wiring now.
E unit has a short black wire with a solder lug. Don't know if it's ground or hot.
Then the wires from e unit.
2 black wires
White
Green
Yellow
Blue
Thanks Chuck.
That's the piston I'm using. So far by turning wheels it works. Should have this test running by the weekend.
Where is the black wire originating from?
Chuck. It's tied in with the other side of e unit coil. The wiring for the 773 doesn't have it.
Only thing I can think is that . the field wire is replaced with that.
The motor I have the field wire is grounded.
Where as the 773 field wire goes to the plug solder tab. On left.
I think it is the reverse unit coil ground wire. It would normally have a solder lug on it a mount to one of the gearbox screws.
Thanks.
I will keep searching. A call to hannon..
Ricki,
Sorry that I'm late to the party, but I did come across a problem that I think everyone has missed. Your trying to mixed rods and valve gears from different eras, especially the eccentric crank. Lionel faced essentially the same problem (rod clearances) when recreating the 700E in 1990. Their solution was to create an offset of the arm on the eccentric crank. Jeff Kane bought a number of these eccentric cranks and sold them as 700E parts, when in fact they were not backwards compatible. I know because I created the comparison years ago. See below.
This offset allowed Lionel to create the side view illusion that the rod configuration was the same as the original 700E, however one only needed to look from the top down to see that the rods were not running parallel.
I'm having trouble following the the diagram... what is house sample 1 and 2 and your sample?
Which one is true to the prewar 700E?
What about the PW 773 (50 and 64)?
The MPC 784, 785, 786?
Others?
Have you reached out to Jeff? I can't imagine he would continue to mix these parts up once informed?
I believe the notes in red answer most of your questions. The house samples speak for themselves, as we are discussing original eccentric cranks as opposed to the LTI version. House Sample One has the sleeve installed while House Sample Two does not. The prewar and postwar Hudson's, 700E, 763E, 773 (1950) and 773 (1964-66) used the same eccentric crank. The only difference between the eccentric cranks manufactured by ionel during the 1936 to 1966 period was the number of bolt nubs at the hub of the eccentric crank. The 783, 784 and 785 used the same eccentric crank as the prewar/postwar version, although they were cast in a new mold.
Why would I alert Jeff Kane?
Thanks Dennis.
Think I bought things from you years ago.
You're most welcome Riki.
Is there a repair to the 700e smoke unit. (Resistor).
I have. PT.no. 600.8306.200
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