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Several years ago I created a 4' by 12' 0 gauge layout in a storage room (former garage now completely enclosed). Soon after I decided to enlarge my "empire" by adding a second 4' by 12' section that runs parallel and sits about 14" apart. This allowed me to get in between the two sections as needed. I set up an outside line that runs around the entire setup (9'2" by 12') with a fancy bridge at one end and a piece of wood with 2 girder bridges on the other. The problem is I literally have to crawl under to get in the middle if I have to gain access to parts of the table tops. This has started to take a toll on my knees (bursitis of the knee anyone?).  I did put some softer rubberized material to cover the concrete floor but at 75 I can only do so much crawling around.

A solution would be to place in some kind of bridge that I can raise to a 90 degree angle allowing me to sidle through in an upright position. I prefer something that is manual to keep expenses down. Is there something out there that is pre-built to avoid going the custom route?  

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Not an expert, but I'm not aware of any pre-built, manual lift outs. Mianne makes a motorized unit that you may be able to integrate into your layout, but it is pricey. You might also want to consider a manual swing gate rather than a lift out bridge, if you have the space, which may be easier to build.

If you do a search, there are several threads on the Forum dealing with both.

John F posted:

Several years ago I created a 4' by 12' 0 gauge layout in a storage room (former garage now completely enclosed). Soon after I decided to enlarge my "empire" by adding a second 4' by 12' section that runs parallel and sits about 14" apart. This allowed me to get in between the two sections as needed. I set up an outside line that runs around the entire setup (9'2" by 12') with a fancy bridge at one end and a piece of wood with 2 girder bridges on the other. The problem is I literally have to crawl under to get in the middle if I have to gain access to parts of the table tops. This has started to take a toll on my knees (bursitis of the knee anyone?).  I did put some softer rubberized material to cover the concrete floor but at 75 I can only do so much crawling around.

A solution would be to place in some kind of bridge that I can raise to a 90 degree angle allowing me to sidle through in an upright position. I prefer something that is manual to keep expenses down. Is there something out there that is pre-built to avoid going the custom route?  

here you go. https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...-lift-bridge-article

just search hinged bridge at the top of the page

GG1 2340 posted:
John F posted:

Several years ago I created a 4' by 12' 0 gauge layout in a storage room (former garage now completely enclosed). Soon after I decided to enlarge my "empire" by adding a second 4' by 12' section that runs parallel and sits about 14" apart. This allowed me to get in between the two sections as needed. I set up an outside line that runs around the entire setup (9'2" by 12') with a fancy bridge at one end and a piece of wood with 2 girder bridges on the other. The problem is I literally have to crawl under to get in the middle if I have to gain access to parts of the table tops. This has started to take a toll on my knees (bursitis of the knee anyone?).  I did put some softer rubberized material to cover the concrete floor but at 75 I can only do so much crawling around.

A solution would be to place in some kind of bridge that I can raise to a 90 degree angle allowing me to sidle through in an upright position. I prefer something that is manual to keep expenses down. Is there something out there that is pre-built to avoid going the custom route?  

here you go. https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...-lift-bridge-article

just search hinged bridge at the top of the page

and here  

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...String=hinged+bridge

You'll have to check the various threads, but I don't believe you need to make an electrical connection across the bridge.

Power would be supplied to the track on the bridge through the hinged side of the bridge and power to the other/open side of the bridge would be supplied via a drop on that side of the layout.

Trains should be able to travel across the small cuts in the track on the open side between the bridge track and the rest of the layout with no issues.

"but the real challenge to me is to maintain track connection"

On my lift-up bridge (it had been a lift-out section for years; one day I was feeling frisky and just lined it up and slapped some hinges on it - it worked!) I solved - avoided - the connection issue by hardwiring the bridge track underneath from the track next to the hinges. This does require that the other end also have a connection from another direction, but, as it happened, it was available.

If you can run wires from/connect to powered track from both ends, you will save yourself the contact fiddling. 

John,

I am not aware of any pre-existing products either, sans the Mianne lift section already mentioned.   I documented my triumphs and pain in building a hinged lift bridge in my layout building thread, mostly on page 2.

Building the bridge itself is fairly simple... and can dress it up as much or as little as you want.  The hard part for me was the unexpected fitting challenges and actually sourcing of the parts.  Sometimes it was just a matter of finding the right search term to get the component I needed, other times it was learning the hard way where to put the hinge.   Here's a list of my lessons learned (aka, things I wish I had known before starting):

1) For a swing-up lift up bridge, mount the hinges above the level of the track so the track affixed to the bridge swings up and clear of the track below  - else the track will impinge on itself when the bridge is lifted.  Setting the hinge point behind the track joint is another option, and ended-up being the way I went for aesthetics.

2) Cut the track using a thin cutting wheel, such as that on a dremel.   Angled cuts, corresponding to how the bridge will swing, work best.

3) Ensure that the anchor points where the bridge is mounting & the track meets on both sides have no "give"  - small variations in rail height are a big issue when running. 

4) A hydraulic arm can be used to assist in lifting the bridge & ensure that it doesn't go back too far.  Ensure you get one with a long enough arm to get you to 90 degree (depending on how you mount it) and enough force to lift your bridge.   These are fairly cheap on amazon and generally sold for cabinets.  You'll probably want to exchange the mounting screws they come with for more robust ones. 

5) Furniture pins are great for ensuring the bridge lowers and sets into the exact same place every time without shifting laterally.  Some kind of locking mechanism, like a trunk latch, is useful to ensure the bridge remains seated vertically.   Both are available in big box hardware stores.

6) It is prudent to have a "bridge up" power cutoff mechanism in place so that trains don't run off a cliff when the bridge is open.   You can use a cut-off on both sides - but should do it on the non-hinged side at a minimum.   I ended-up using momentary lever switches (one for each main line) that are physically closed (thus closing the circuit) when the bridge is down.  I also installed LEDs for each track so I have visual confirmation if power is off/on to the section leading to the bridge.  I found both on ebay for a reasonable price.

 

-Dustin

 

Lionel built an extended truss bridge that was 30" wide and was designed to be used as a lift out with electrical contacts built into the piers.  I believe the piers stack so you have the ability to lower or raise the set deck height. I have seen these used for 150.00 but there are new ones on E-bay for 200.00.  One of the mags did a review on this bridge. The track on the deck is fastrack but I have seen this bridge used with other types of track.

Lionel 6-82110

Since your span is quite narrow, you will definitely want a lift up span to get it out of the way to walk through.  Mine was a cheap way to go and allows for easy line up and wiring for the span.  One photo shows the wiring brought under from the main track.  The other shows a notch in the table for a 2" x 2" to drop into for a perfect track line up every time.

 

5. Lift span up

1. Lift end of span

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  • 5. Lift span up
  • 1. Lift end of span

 

       this is as far as I got on it so far Mike, hope to be working on it soon !!

                                 thanks again for the bridge frame 

          it is at the top of the steps going to the upstairs layout...

                                                              walking under the other bridge...

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  • mceclip0
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Last edited by briansilvermustang

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