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RonH posted:

Found a old motor for my slinky dog, just need traction tires full wave rectifier and cap (on order from China).

Planning to cut out some plastic white styrene sheets (paper pattern shown) for a base to attached the dogs front paws to (using screws) and putting a small box that looks like a present in front of the dog to hold the rectifier and cap.

Should I will put a small green soldier in the front to lead the way?

Also planning to keep the platform solid to the motor and front paws and the rear trucks solid to the rear paws so when it goes around corners it will stretch a bit to make it more noticeable.

Cool idea. You might consider a single diode to run the motor half wave. That way, it will not run too fast. Especially important with a postwar-type transformer that starts at 6-7 volts.

Can anyone tell me the overall width of the feet when they are placed on the platform that is to be mounted to the truck? I have some unused cheap Menards flatbeds that I was just thinking of cutting up, leaving just enough platform above each truck to place the feet of the dog on and secure them to that platform or portion of the Menards flatbed. Just wondering if that flatbed is wide enough.

Chime in if you can measure one that you have.

Thanks.

mustang posted:

Can anyone tell me the overall width of the feet when they are placed on the platform that is to be mounted to the truck? I have some unused cheap Menards flatbeds that I was just thinking of cutting up, leaving just enough platform above each truck to place the feet of the dog on and secure them to that platform or portion of the Menards flatbed. Just wondering if that flatbed is wide enough.

Chime in if you can measure one that you have.

Thanks.

Took a quick measurement of the front paws. On the widest width it measured 2 3/8 for me

RonH posted

Took a quick measurement of the front paws. On the widest width it measured 2 3/8 for me

 For those still building one of these, here is a picture of the plate I made. Just standard 18ga sheet metal stock.  2 1/4 X 1 1/4 " Also if you plan to use plastic trucks , you may have to add some weight to get the desired effect....

plate

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walt rapp posted:

Did I  buy the right one?? It sure seems big!

- walt

 

Looks like the same one that I purchased used on eBay.
The widest part of the feet should be about 2 3/8 inch wide.
Using a motorized truck for the front so it can be self propelled.
I know it looks tall and as gunrunner stated, be careful on any tunnel or overhanging accessories.
Just found a sheet of Plastruct (plastic sheet 0.100 thick) for the a platform for the feet on the trucks.
Marking this up today and will cut out.
I will try to take some pictures of my progress tp post and hope that everyone else will do the same as other approches will bring some new ideas on how to

Just a idea.

Working on my slinky dog and want to use screws to hold it to the base.

Took the wheels of the dogs feet by using a xacto knife and sliding off both plastic axles on the wheel, then pulling the wheel of and slicing off a little tab that is also on the bottom of the foot. Going to fill the void up completely with JBWeld. Once this is cured will drill a hole and tap it for a 4-40 or 2-56 screw. Then I will counter sink the plastic base to accept a flat head screw. Should work, just did not want to glue the feet down to the plastic base. Anybody else have any other ideas?

If it helps anyone plan, here is my "JR" version showing height.  The trucks are regular MTH Railking ones and the plastic base is .4mm plastic.  I should have put it on track to get a better picture but I didn't think of that at the time and when I did I didn't want to disturb the adhesive as I just applied it and it hadn't cured yet.  I can do it with track after I'm comfortable handling it.

- walt

Shows height on truck

This is an MTH portal:

Clearance of MTH portal

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Did some work on my Slinky dog (moving along slowly).

As stated before I removed the wheel and a little plastic knob from the bottom of the feet so the foot will sit flat on the platform.
Had a problem as one of the feet were knocked off from the leg and JB Weld to the rescue (the foot is drying now).
Tonight I will fill the 4 square holes in with JB weld and the following day I will drill and tap it for a 2-57 screw.

The platform for the motor is done. This was my second attempt as the first platform was to thick and the c-clip could not fit on.

With the c-clip and the two metal knobs on the motor the plastic is held very secure.

I will post some pictures in a couple of days on the filling in of the holes and drilling/tapping/mounting the front paws to the platform.

Still have to find a boom car that I have (need the boom for something else) for the truck/coupler.

Question:

 

Would anyone know if Lionels traction tires would fit the K-Line S-2 wheels.
Found the k-line traction tires on line for $7.00 for 14 but the shipping and handling would bring the price to $19 and change.

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gunrunnerjohn posted:

I'm going to do something similar, but I'd like the platform to be trimmed to the feet.  I'll also probably color it black to blend in.

The platform plastic that I used is white.
Going to paint the bottom and sides brown like a cardboard color then I will print out parts of a monopoly board cut it out and glue it to the top. Also as my dogs feet will be screwed down what I was planning to to was to make it look like the dogs feet were tied to the platform by running string (several times) around the platform and feet with a bow on the top. On bottom of the platform where the string is ir will be glued to the bottom sides and cut off in the middle to allow for frame space if needed.

Just trying to duplicate what the toys would do in toy story Toy Story, plus it will be fun!

Last edited by RonH
walt rapp posted:

Here are pictures showing heights on track.

..................................................

The dog does NOT clear.  Misses by mayby 1/16" to 1/8"

Portal clearance on roadbed track

walt

1) Nice job!

2) Are the front legs pivotable with respect to the body?  It looks like there are pivot points showing on the rear legs, but it's hard to tell on the front (ruler was in the way a little).  I don't know if that would be a viable solution (would change the direction of the collapsible axis of the spring a bit - which might not be a good idea), but it might be worth a shot as a trial.  1/16 might not need a lot of tilt to make him clear.

-Dave

Dave45681 posted:
walt rapp posted:

Here are pictures showing heights on track.

..................................................

The dog does NOT clear.  Misses by mayby 1/16" to 1/8"

 

walt

1) Nice job!

2) Are the front legs pivotable with respect to the body?  It looks like there are pivot points showing on the rear legs, but it's hard to tell on the front (ruler was in the way a little).  I don't know if that would be a viable solution (would change the direction of the collapsible axis of the spring a bit - which might not be a good idea), but it might be worth a shot as a trial.  1/16 might not need a lot of tilt to make him clear.

-Dave

Hi Dave I also thought about that.

Hard to predict problems.
I m planning to keep the set of feet fixed to the platforms Motorized truck and trailing truck.
Both ways fixed or not fixed could have their own issues.

Cut a slice from his neck to make him shorter?

Hollow neck? Plug it with some 5min JBWeld leave a shallow well in each end; then fill it solid with more JBW. Super glue one spot to hold it while the JBWeld sets .(nice trick for slow set jbw)

Cut, file, sand, grind down the soles/walls of his paws down to nearer flat? They don't need to be that thick with the wheels gone.

Some more progress photos on my slinky dog.
Here is a picture after the wheel have been removed and before the JB Weld was applied to fill the voids and to make a nice solid piece to drill and tap for the mounting holes.

Below is a picture after the holes were filled. The way I did this was to mix a lot of the JB Weld up and put it into a zip lock Plastic storage bag in one corner.
Zipped the bag close with the least amount of air in it and used a battery to roll the JB Weld into one corner.
 Once this was done I cut a small piece of bag off at the corner tip and used it like a bakery frosting bag to squeeze the JB Weld precisely into the dogs wheel openings without making a mess
 I then used a single edge razor to wipe the extra off and to make it flat as possible

Next will be the marking of where to drill, then drilling the holes using a No.50 drill and a 2-56 tap.
Good idea: Mark the drill with a piece of tap on how far down you need to drill without going through the other side

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Stoshu posted:

 


Now add it to your favorite train. Thomas and friends seem to work the best...

 He needs a little weight behind him for the effect.  Kids and families seem to relay enjoy this a shows.

Bruce....

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
d1
 
 

Bruce, do you have any more footage.  I'd like to see it in different situations.  I tested mine using 42" curves with a 36" straight piece on both sides.  Small loop but I wasn't real happy with the spring action.  I like your video because it's on longer straights but I'd like to see more after the curve.

thanks - walt

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Walt, put some more weight in his butt, or add a heavier car behind him.

I tried various combos.  I think the loop that I set up, 42" semi-cirles with 36" straight connectors, was too small to let the spring action function "well".  It did stretch in the curve but stayed stretched a bit coming out until the car or cars behind it exited the curve as well.  By then it was almost ready to enter the other semi-circle.  Just too small I think.  

But it did prove that it works.

- walt

Sorry Walt no more footage of Slinky. It is shown running on 072 curves. I also believe there may a little dip on the layout module also. I've use 1 or 2 Sodor cabeese , A Christmas caboose and even a disconnect car. So weight and speed are important to get the best results.  I'd try it on a bigger layout also...  Hope to see a video soon....

 Bruce..

 

Thanks Bruce.

I did a bit more experimenting yesterday.  I created a slightly bigger loop.  42" curves with a 36" straight piece on all 4 sides.  I used my little point and shoot to try to capture results so the images are only 1/2 good and the sound is not great either.   But it's not unwatchable by any means.

The first video - the 1st 35 seconds is probably enough to watch, but after that I experiment with different speeds and other things that may interest you.

https://youtu.be/Hxq6vVnBZBQ

The second video - I have more success in this one.  I got things (the spring action) to work fairly well.

https://youtu.be/RBneAZ6mdyE

- walt

Last edited by walt rapp

Hi Walt.... Did you use plastic or metal trucks ?  Mine are metal, maybe the extra drag helps also. I looked at the video and just for fun add a little hump in the track. Maybe using some pop cycle sticks. Model powered race cars also use weights, I found some at Menards but should be available at any hobby shop... you are getting close....

 

 Bruce..

 

 

Stoshu posted:

Hi Walt.... Did you use plastic or metal trucks ?  Mine are metal, maybe the extra drag helps also. I looked at the video and just for fun add a little hump in the track. Maybe using some pop cycle sticks. Model powered race cars also use weights, I found some at Menards but should be available at any hobby shop... you are getting close....

 

 Bruce..

 

 

The trucks for the dog are metal (MTH Railking trucks) but the cars' were plastic.

An interesting thing was found out in my testing: if I started moving at too fast of a pace the rear truck would tilt forward and land up with it's coupler too high and it would uncouple from the car behind it.  Need to start slow and progress faster from there.  Small issue for sure - just an observation though.

When I get around to setting up my Christmas layout of which I have 4 very acceptable designs ready, there will be an incline to a plateau but another set of trackage will be flat, so I'll test the dog on both and see which works best.  Hopefully one does!!!!!

- walt

walt rapp posted:
Stoshu posted:

Hi Walt.... Did you use plastic or metal trucks ?  Mine are metal, maybe the extra drag helps also. I looked at the video and just for fun add a little hump in the track. Maybe using some pop cycle sticks. Model powered race cars also use weights, I found some at Menards but should be available at any hobby shop... you are getting close....

 

 Bruce..

 

 

The trucks for the dog are metal (MTH Railking trucks) but the cars' were plastic.

An interesting thing was found out in my testing: if I started moving at too fast of a pace the rear truck would tilt forward and land up with it's coupler too high and it would uncouple from the car behind it.  Need to start slow and progress faster from there.  Small issue for sure - just an observation though.

When I get around to setting up my Christmas layout of which I have 4 very acceptable designs ready, there will be an incline to a plateau but another set of trackage will be flat, so I'll test the dog on both and see which works best.  Hopefully one does!!!!!

- walt

Maybe a little weight on the rear of the dogs but truck mat help.

Experiment with some double back tape/ weights (anything that could be used as a weight).

Big Jim posted:

"LOOK! It's the Fire Station, that's the Fire Department......Look at that!!!" 

Yes, that child's reaction was quite charming! :-)  (I, of course, would have been admiring that Cosy Cone Motel! :-).

Thanks for posting the videos, Tom.  Looks like everyone really enjoyed the trains and you could see the eyes following Mr. Slinky Dog.

Tomlinson Run Railroad

Wandering thru Cracker Barrel gift shop after diner Sunday evening and noticed they have slinky dogs packaged in cardboard boxes, described as 'vintage toy'; I did not open one for inspection but I suspect they are very similar to the ones being described on this post. The price I believe was $19.95. I spotted these at Cracker Barrel off of I-83  exit 4 in Shrewsbury, way up on top shelf, they had 2 of them on shelf' hope this might be useful; when I spotted them I smiled, recalling the videos posted here. Thank you guys for all your entertaining and informative posts. Jeff

jeffrey O'Brien 082418 posted:

Wandering thru Cracker Barrel gift shop after diner Sunday evening and noticed they have slinky dogs packaged in cardboard boxes, described as 'vintage toy'; I did not open one for inspection but I suspect they are very similar to the ones being described on this post. The price I believe was $19.95. I spotted these at Cracker Barrel off of I-83  exit 4 in Shrewsbury, way up on top shelf, they had 2 of them on shelf' hope this might be useful; when I spotted them I smiled, recalling the videos posted here. Thank you guys for all your entertaining and informative posts. Jeff

The first one that I bought off of Amazon was around $19.  I returned it.  There was NO SPRING.  There was, instead, a plastic "expandable" tube of sorts but one has to expand it manually and then it doesn't retract unless you manually push it back together.  I came in the same Toy Story packaging as the 2nd one that I bought (shown in several of my postings in this thread).

- walt

TomlinsonRunRR posted:
Big Jim posted:

"LOOK! It's the Fire Station, that's the Fire Department......Look at that!!!" 

Yes, that child's reaction was quite charming! :-)  (I, of course, would have been admiring that Cosy Cone Motel! :-).

Thanks for posting the videos, Tom.  Looks like everyone really enjoyed the trains and you could see the eyes following Mr. Slinky Dog.

Tomlinson Run Railroad

Cozy Cone Motel

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