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I have wanted to try one of these unfinished weaver kits.  I obtained some weaver trucks from one of our forum members and I just received this 2 bay hopper kit so I am ready to go. 

My plan is to wash with soap and water, spray this with krylon satin black, put on some Tichy decals (either B&O or C&O),  and finish with another coat of clear krylon satin finish.  the last detail will be a coal load out of blue foam and some "real" coal I bought at York.

I would value any other suggestions on finishing this (or other ideas) since this is my first weaver kit. Thanks.

weaver hopper

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That sounds like it will work.   By the way, these hoppers and all the Weaver cars as far as I know were built to NMRA recommended practice, so any brand of trucks also built to those standards would work.   the most common is Athearn trucks which are similar to the Weaver delrin trucks.    But Intermountain, Red Caboose, and other typical 2 rail O Scale trucks would set the car at the right height.    You might need to do some work on the truck bolster for  using other than Weaver or Athearn.

When these models first came out, there were no Weaver trucks, they were designed to use Athearn trucks.

hokie71 posted:

Apparently I have later generation weaver plastic trucks.  I will research for the talgo, Athern, Intermoutain, etc trucks. Correct, I am a 3 railer.

Never tried dry transfers but those are beautiful.  What brand are they?  

 

C-D-S Lettering LTD, PO Box 65074, Nepean, ON K2G 5Y3   

The Weaver trucks either die cast or plastic frame should be fine.   Pictured are with coal loads,  some coal loads were from Weaver.  You also could do additional body weight from Weaver.   Silver weights pictured. 

Instructions:  C-D-S Dry transfers.  

1.  Make sure that the surface to be lettered is dry and free from grease. For best results on new paint, wait at least 48 hours before lettering. 

2. Place lettering in exact position and hold in place with fingers, or masking tape, if necessary. 

3, Using a soft pencil,  ball-point pen or a hardwood burnisher, rub lightly over area to be transferred to tentatively fix the lettering, then go over each letter or word individually to fix them in place.  Careful-- too much pressure may distort the lettering.  (You are using a round, edge free, tool to apply pressure). 

4. After transferring all the lettering, place the backing sheet over the lettering, and burnish firmly to permanently fix it in place. 

5. When lettering over rivets, etc., gently work the letters around the protrusion.  If necessary, touch up any broken letters with paint of the correct shade. 

6. When applying two, or three colors separately, such as heralds, spray, or brush a light coat of Testor's Dullcoat, or some other matte varnish, over the first color before applying the second, making sure it is completely dry, and over the second layer before applying the third color.  

7. When all lettering is complete, it may be protected by spraying or brushing a light coat of Testor's Dullcoat, Walther's DDV, or similar product. This final coat may be either, gloss, or dull depending on, whether you desire your cars to look "as new", or slightly weathered.  If you wish, heavier weathering may now be applied.  

IMO, I had good luck with this procedure, finding the dry transfers, and applying them, 10 years ago.  Both decals and dry transfers may be a bit more difficult, today.  IMO.  Best wishes, Mike CT.   

Last edited by Mike CT

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