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If you have a volt meter the best way to trouble shoot this is to use to test continuity from under the board on the solder joint of the pin to opposite end solder joint like on the fan motor, or under the connector of the heating element or at the heating element joint.  This way you test the full extent of the wiring.  Solder joint, the connector, wiring etc...  When you find an open, work your way in to see where the open is.  G

Thanks for the input.  Checked draw bar engine & tender there was no continuity between the pins I then disconnected  the speaker plug  & 1 wire off the speaker. I then checked for continuity from  draw bar  to speaker & then to coupler no broken wires. I repeated same test eng. drawbar wires 2 brown & 2 black to pcb  ( not connected to pcb) With tender connected to eng. I have found continuity  to pcb  I than checked solder joints on pcb where female plugs are Checked all wires with male plugs  All showed continuity Checked switches for smoke, chuff and remote or transformer all good. everything I thought was a factor I checked for continuity I hooked the smoke & fan unit separately fan & heating element worked. back where I started Runs, lights, coupler but no sound or smoke. I must be missing something

There is no static or crackle from speaker. I will change speaker (8ohm) just in case. When I installed the new board from Lionel. Everything remained the same  Runs, lights, rear coupler works. But no sound or smoke. Is there a wiring schematic for this engine. Or a way to test this board. Is there a way to bypass the engine, tender drawbar connection to eliminate a possible problem       I'm using a univ. remote remote.  Power source  MTH  Z4000  the new board # is 691EMGM105 Lionchief PCB/Hudson 4-6-4/6-81301

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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