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gunrunnerjohn posted:
Bruk posted:
gunrunnerjohn posted:

Time for some smoke!

I know! I spent a couple hours trying to come up with the best way to do it. Still haven’t gotten there yet....

It's going to be tricky getting whistle smoke and an easy way to fill the unit.  I have looked at several that I'd like to do that on, but I'm hesitant to start drilling holes in the boiler and have it not work well!

That was my feeling on my 3rd rail T&P I couldn’t bring my self to drill that hole. There is plenty of room... in there.

ironman1 posted:

I wasn't aware that Legacy was available for upgrades. Not being a technical/electronics guy & I never installed any aftermarket upgrades, did I miss something? 

It’s not an official upgrade kit like MTH Ps3 or ERR items. The only way to do these “upgrades” is find a donor loco or you have to know everything there needs to know about this generation of electronics, hows its wired how it functions and the different styles of installations in previous models. 

Last edited by Bruk

So after many, many long thoughts about how to approach the smoke unit features this is what I did....

When it comes to the main stack, I found that the best look and performance is to make the exhaust port as large as you can but not to large where the smoke wont blow out very well because there isn’t enough air pressure.

I created the “exhaust funnel” out of brass tubing. First I oversizes the hole in the PCB and stack common to the shell. The tubing became press fit through the PCB. The hole common through the smoke stack was much smaller in diameter. I drilled it up to the same size as the diameter of the brass tubing.

Since the stack on the loco is brass and press fit. I popped it out and solder a small piece of the tubing to the end of it. This gave me just a little bit more material to be able to connect the smoke unit and shell with some silicone tubing. This makes is easier to service later.

After lots of cutting, filing and soldering you get a exhaust stack. I had to clearance the inside of the shell slightly for the wider smoke unit body. I also had to grind away on the lower pipe detail to fit both fan motors. Insulated the base so the motors don’t ground out.

For the whistle steam. I had to remove the actual whistle detail part first. It was incased in epoxy on the inside and had I had to Dremel it away. Once I got the whistle off I could align where I wanted the hole. I painstakingly drilled a hole into the shell underneath where the whistle sits (Killed me a little) and angled it slightly help direct the flow. It matched the outside diameter of the brass tubing I’m using.

Soldered some tubing into an elbow and I lucked out and solder it to some brass standoffs in the shell.

I had to also create a bracket to mount the smoke unit into the shell. I reused the old brace and new brass stock. Made standoffs with the brass tubing and 4-40/2-56 screws.

Had to also create plugs between the RCMC and Smoke unit.

3E68C07E-65C4-4B86-9EAB-9C57B6D37FED634DDCE9-8824-4504-A7EE-8B704F56554F5B0E21E6-43E2-44E1-90CB-D9F55D07C03703DA0A17-DF9F-44B4-ACCA-8A6397BA10D5400D9D74-12EF-4322-8CFC-58753997FBD8996779DE-92CA-4F92-869A-0B3C6C156B6CE54897A8-192A-4DEF-BD74-0E6EBCE1E9C889ED041C-0DC1-42BA-ADE2-5E6D765779BEA31A0413-DE1F-41B1-AAA5-09F5191B127EADAE4AA1-73A3-4295-889A-449BFFCAE5F5A4947167-E49C-4057-B871-19D97CC82F69569654A4-5352-4F67-90E6-4E75C3B57B78D8B5C590-7ED4-4637-AD42-2663DA6B6EC711B758C7-38BA-403A-A377-88DA6667FA07CEF8C3D3-4E86-4AFF-9E2E-F8AB58E850992FF1A8E2-45FE-4731-9514-727EFBB8E528C3E5AC78-C178-4035-8D9F-8A454990080D069ED53E-FA58-4D79-9460-8A515B66D09BC4AF38BA-E27A-402E-97D1-001ED06F53FAFDFE8688-AF2F-4BDC-92A3-923DC891BE90

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Bruk posted:

So after many, many long thoughts about how to approach the smoke unit features this is what I did....

When it comes to the main stack, I found that the best look and performance is to make the exhaust port as large as you can but not to large where the smoke wont blow out very well because there isn’t enough air pressure.

I created the “exhaust funnel” out of brass tubing. First I oversizes the hole in the PCB and stack common to the shell. The tubing became press fit through the PCB. The hole common through the smoke stack was much smaller in diameter. I drilled it up to the same size as the diameter of the brass tubing.

Since the stack on the loco is brass and press fit. I popped it out and solder a small piece of the tubing to the end of it. This gave me just a little bit more material to be able to connect the smoke unit and shell with some silicone tubing. This makes is easier to service later.

After lots of cutting, filing and soldering you get a exhaust stack. I had to clearance the inside of the shell slightly for the wider smoke unit body. I also had to grind away on the lower pipe detail to fit both fan motors. Insulated the base so the motors don’t ground out.

For the whistle steam. I had to remove the actual whistle detail part first. It was incased in epoxy on the inside and had I had to Dremel it away. Once I got the whistle off I could align where I wanted the hole. I painstakingly drilled a hole into the shell underneath where the whistle sits (Killed me a little) and angled it slightly help direct the flow. It matched the outside diameter of the brass tubing I’m using.

Soldered some tubing into an elbow and I lucked out and solder it to some brass standoffs in the shell.

I had to also create a bracket to mount the smoke unit into the shell. I reused the old brace and new brass stock. Made standoffs with the brass tubing and 4-40/2-56 screws.

Had to also create plugs between the RCMC and Smoke unit.

3E68C07E-65C4-4B86-9EAB-9C57B6D37FED634DDCE9-8824-4504-A7EE-8B704F56554F5B0E21E6-43E2-44E1-90CB-D9F55D07C03703DA0A17-DF9F-44B4-ACCA-8A6397BA10D5400D9D74-12EF-4322-8CFC-58753997FBD8996779DE-92CA-4F92-869A-0B3C6C156B6CE54897A8-192A-4DEF-BD74-0E6EBCE1E9C889ED041C-0DC1-42BA-ADE2-5E6D765779BEA31A0413-DE1F-41B1-AAA5-09F5191B127EADAE4AA1-73A3-4295-889A-449BFFCAE5F5A4947167-E49C-4057-B871-19D97CC82F69569654A4-5352-4F67-90E6-4E75C3B57B78D8B5C590-7ED4-4637-AD42-2663DA6B6EC711B758C7-38BA-403A-A377-88DA6667FA07CEF8C3D3-4E86-4AFF-9E2E-F8AB58E850992FF1A8E2-45FE-4731-9514-727EFBB8E528C3E5AC78-C178-4035-8D9F-8A454990080D069ED53E-FA58-4D79-9460-8A515B66D09BC4AF38BA-E27A-402E-97D1-001ED06F53FAFDFE8688-AF2F-4BDC-92A3-923DC891BE90

Brilliant mate! 3 Cheers for an amazing job!Now.. if only we can eventually get the Cylinder and Pop Off, and Blow down effects, and we will be Triple Platinum! But really, great job ! 

Last edited by VintageClassics
gunrunnerjohn posted:

Interesting question Pete.  It could be simply in the firmware they load for the specific application, that's how the RCMC is programmed.  Note this is just speculation on my part, I don't really have the answer.

I agree with John. They come flashed to the specific loco. The RCMC board came from a Southern PS4 Pacific with Legacy. I chose that because of the smoke outputs and the driver Diameters were close. Come to find out last night the 4 chuff per rev is not quite 4 chuffs more like 3. I most likely will swap the board from a loco such as AC12 that has a smaller wheel diameter and see if that fixes my problem there and preform some mischief with Lionels part department. 

I’m starting to wrap this project up. I airbrushed the drivers/handrails looks way better. Also touched up some nicked areas. I sprayed the brass tube for the whistle steam and the mount under the smoke unit. 

I also had to shortened the drawbar because it was way to long and that was something that had always bugged me. I cut that down .525 of an inch. I was able to solder that together and reinforced it with a small piece of brass. Did a pull test at 10 pounds and it held together! Reassembled and reapplied new heat shrink over the wires. Put it back together looks much better.

 

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Last edited by Bruk
@T1Titan_ZachF posted:

And Bruk - The shay still runs great! Thanks for a great job. SInce you could fix my problemed shay you can do this install (t1 one someday to?

I was re reading this and I over read this! I’m glad the Shay is working great! Such a dumb design with an easy fix.

And YES!

I have been in the market for picking up a Scale Lionel T1 (4-4-4-4) for some time now and I do want to do an upgrade with Legacy using RCMC and the Sound board from the LionMaster #5511 version with Whistle steam. It would be a nice conversion with whistle steam.

Bruk posted:
@T1Titan_ZachF posted:

And Bruk - The shay still runs great! Thanks for a great job. SInce you could fix my problemed shay you can do this install (t1 one someday to?

I was re reading this and I over read this! I’m glad the Shay is working great! Such a dumb design with an easy fix.

And YES!

I have been in the market for picking up a Scale Lionel T1 (4-4-4-4) for some time now and I do want to do an upgrade with Legacy using RCMC and the Sound board from the LionMaster #5511 version with Whistle steam. It would be a nice conversion with whistle steam.

Good to hear from you again! I have the older lionel scale T1 5511 and its a heavy loco. It was built to last

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Hmm...  I happen to have a Legacy LM T1 Duplex and waiting in the wings is a brass scale T1-Duplex.  I could upgrade that one with the LM electronics.

As my brothers say. “Bet you wont”  😂

If it was me and since its brass id try and use the BEMC but since you have a donor loco... you could reuse a lot of that. 

gunrunnerjohn posted:

I have time to think about it, I have a layout to build and a pile of repairs and upgrades to do first!

Just to let you know, I just picked up/received in the mail a Lionel Scale T1 (6-28063)

I have already started a parts list for the conversion. Ill be using the “Vision Steam” LionMaster Version for the sound. 

 

6347EA2B-7467-4EC9-B1B9-909ECEEF5418

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Last edited by Bruk

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