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Hi Everyone,

My trustee 2003 2-8-0 was stuck trying to move a fixed piece of scenery in an unseen part of the layout by accident. The can motor now smells and emits smoke. Oops. If I order a new motor from MTH (if they still carry it) is this something one can replace, or is it better to go to a service shop. Thanks, for your thoughts,

Robert

 

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I had the same problem with 20-3563, a 2-8-0- PRR proto-3.  The motor burned out in the same manner as yours.  The engine was repaired by a certified tech under warranty.   The problem he had was that the replacement motor was not identical to the damaged one.  How he was able to mount it properly is a mystery to me, although the engine has performed admirably since the repair.  Good luck with your repair. 

Hi all, been awhile, but I am back to this project. I have received the correct can motor from mth. I have the new motor ready to mount, but I have to change the tach wheel with a new reader bracket mth sent with motor. MY QUESTION please is how to remove the tach wheel. I don't want to just pull on it, unless that is the method.

Thanks in advance,

Robert

So, the saga of replacing the engine continues. I did change the tach bracket and installed the replacement engine. Everything works on the engine BUT,  it goes one speed only - " bat out of ****." So I guess the tach is not working. Should I have tried to remove the tach wheel from the old motor and somehow get the tach wheel off the new motor and swap them? Or is the tach reader very sensitive, and when kaput when I put in the new motor.

Anyone have ideas?

Thanks,

Robert likes Ross track really.

The tach tape works fine with the tach reader, no need to screw around with the flywheels, that will just lead to new issues if you don't have the proper tools to remove/replace them.  In any case, it's not necessary.

Check the spacing from the flywheel, it should be around 1mm, the thickness of a dime.  If it's very far off from that, either closer or farther, it'll likely not work.  Also, make sure you didn't break any wires from the tach reader to the board.

In that circumstance, I do it like I do my Chuff-Generator.  There are fiberglass shims, but I'm now using Styrene as fiberglass is too hard on the bandsaw blades.  I have various thicknesses, and I just dish the first one out to conform to the motor a bit better.  They're all secured with CA Adhesive (crazy glue).  I just stack the up until I have the required 1mm spacing.

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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