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Before I permanently install my tracks, I would like to paint the rails to make them much more realistic.  

I am using Gargraves with a mix of wood and plastic ties.  I will be masking the center rail and ties, and spraying the rails. I will wipe off the tops while the paint is still wet and then use a bright boy or fine grit sand paper after the top of the rails are dry. 

What color and brand of paint have you used?  Have any pics of the end result to share.   

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Let me caution you NOT to use an abrasive cleaner like a Bright Boy or sandpaper on Gargraves track.  The rails are steel with a tin plating on them.  The plating is not very thick.  If you sand it off, the bare steel will be prone to rust and be much harder to keep clean than the plated rails.  Use a rag with some mineral spirits instead.  The still damp paint will come off cleanly.

I used a combination of Rustoleum Red Oxide Primer and Rustoleum Camo Brown.   I agree with BOILERMAKER1, just spray over everything and wipe off the tops of the rails with Acetone or Lacquer Thinner before the paint has time to dry.  I know that I'm gonna get a bunch of "Po, Po" regarding the chemicals but I practice High Flow Ventilation, (several large fans) and I'm only using a small amount on cotton T-Shirt material wrapped around an appropriately sized piece of wood.   Have a Look.

DSCN0141

 

Chief Bob (Retired)

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Rust-Oleum Camo Green for main tracks.

Rust-Oleum Camo Brown for sidings, spurs, and yard tracks.

The "green" is more like a dusty gray earth tone, and looks great up close and from a distance.  It's your track, but I would advise against use of a rusty looking orange color.  Prototype rail is dirty more than rusty.  Shoot paint onto a section of track, wipe the top of the rail, and let it dry.  Take it inside and see how the color looks under the light you will use for your layout.  Then take it out onto dirt outside and see how it looks.

Another good advantage of both of the Rust-Oleum colors is that they make the ties look realistic too.

Rust-O-Leum or Krylon Camo brown; I spray the whole thing (switches, too, except the machines), then the next day I remove the paint from the rail tops with a fine foam sanding block. This sanding block has never caused any problems; been doing it on this layout for 30 years - I clean the track (when I do) with one, too.

Don't forget to spray the GG from the bottom to get the parts between the ties, then from the top. The "flanges" that slip into the ties on GG is the only thing I dislike about the track - that and the chrome-y tinplate finish.

Don't use "red oxide" (etc) paint; it's orange.

I use GG/Ross/Curtis track.

5344-15a

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I agree with everything one else, use Krylon or Rustoleum camouflage brown. If you want to mask the ties, use 1/2 inch cellophane tape between the rails.  Don't use red oxide primer, it's too orange. Paint everything then wipe the rail top clean with mineral spirits, I've read that it is better than acetone or lacquer thinner because it doesn't leave a film on the rail to attract dirt and  oxidation.

 

I'll add my two cents - drag a piece of cork roadbed or stiff foam over the rails immediately after spraying.  Wipe edge of foam/cork with paper towel.  I find I can spray about 3 feet and still easily get the paint off before it dries.  I dislike doing it after it dries.

Brendan

Color depends on the RR / ballast / region / era you are modeling. Any matte or flat spray paint will work.

Examples ERIE or PRR = Grey

Commuter lines = Brake dust red

Other roads = Tan

Steam era cinder ballast = Black

Grass sidings =Rust

So rail color depends on the ballast it is embedded in.

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GRASS

PAINT

                        There is clean perfet world modeling and then there is real.

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Last edited by SIRT

Number 90 posted:

Rust-Oleum Camo Green for main tracks.

Rust-Oleum Camo Brown for sidings, spurs, and yard tracks.

The "green" is more like a dusty gray earth tone, and looks great up close and from a distance.  It's your track, but I would advise against use of a rusty looking orange color.  Prototype rail is dirty more than rusty.  Shoot paint onto a section of track, wipe the top of the rail, and let it dry.  Take it inside and see how the color looks under the light you will use for your layout.  Then take it out onto dirt outside and see how it looks.

Rustoleum makes Army Green and Deep Forest Green - which do you recommend? Any pictures?

Bob

Fort Pitt Highrails used Testors  Acrylic (Floquil) Railroad tie brown.   Badger Air brush application.  Top of rail was cleaned with water and a soluble paint thinner.  Scotchbrite pads were used to clean top of rail.  

Before:  Remodel addition of two Ross three way switches. 

 

Last edited by Mike CT

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