New Layout Enzo & Giovana Trains - Updated - 01/17/23

Leandro,

Good to see that you have a new one planned. A double track main line is always good. Just do not get too close to the walls. You need enough room engine overhang on the curves and enough room for scenery. You may also want to think about adding some spurs along the way so you can do some switching. Be sure to leave enough room for people to move around. I'm sure others will chime in here with ideas. Great start!

 

Chris

LVHR

 

Leandro,

Looks like you have a good plan. Perhaps eventually add some mountains, tunnels and scenery.  Whatever you decide, just have fun.

John 

 

How did you solve the humidity so that you don't have to dismantle this layout too?  

I like the basic layout - maybe some staging tracks, yard tracks for your turntable and sidings?  To accomplish the yard, you might consider putting the turntable on the other leg, as it has a longer approach which is a nice area for yard tracks. 

I very happy the forum, because I always have help from you.

#Chris, thanks for your comments! Surely I will stay away from the walls ! Next works will be to add spurs and different levels. It will be a challenge!

#John, thank you for your comments ! Yes I have that to have, mountains, tunnels, river because my son wants very much.

#PJB,thank you for your comments ! - It will be a brand new space.  I'm going to do this test with the turntable, but I thought in these places to have more space for a city.

Hi Leandro,

I have a few thoughts about working with Atlas track.

You don't really need the 40" Flex straights. They don't flex like HO track.

You can cut any track to a custom length or arc angle. Order item #6057 when you order the track. Those replace the ties when the track is cut and add the snap connectors.

Be sure to order enough extra rail joiners. Good to have in inventory.

Atlas doesn't ship the "short" switches any longer that are listed in the RRT library. Some have a removable piece included to make the "short" version

I believe that you would be happier with #5 turnouts for the crossovers.

Give the Atlas track planning software a try. It supports multiple languages. You may find it easier to learn.

Looks like a nice plan. As mentioned about locomotive overhang, we have a few where the cab hangs out farther than the boiler, and my friends wall has the scrapes to prove it. Great idea to plan for the work area. Keep us posted and good luck with EnzoVille 2.2.

Leandro,

Agree with Moonman comments on Atlas track.  Glad you decided to put yout plan on the forum.  Members on this forum have been invaluable to me in the past.  If I can help in any way, continue to email me.  Keep us posted.

 

Moonman posted:

Hi Leandro,

I have a few thoughts about working with Atlas track.

You don't really need the 40" Flex straights. They don't flex like HO track.

You can cut any track to a custom length or arc angle. Order item #6057 when you order the track. Those replace the ties when the track is cut and add the snap connectors.

Be sure to order enough extra rail joiners. Good to have in inventory.

Atlas doesn't ship the "short" switches any longer that are listed in the RRT library. Some have a removable piece included to make the "short" version

I believe that you would be happier with #5 turnouts for the crossovers.

Give the Atlas track planning software a try. It supports multiple languages. You may find it easier to learn.

You do not really need the 40 "Flex straights. They do not flex like HO track.
#Carl, you're not the first person to tell me that! I'm going to use 054 and 063 is it best that I buy the curves already in the measure?

You can cut any track to a custom length or arc angle. Order item # 6057 when you order the track. Those replace the ties when the track is cut and add the snap connectors.
#Thanks for this tip I did not know and I will buy.

Be sure to order enough extra rail joiners. Good to have in inventory.
#Yes, I felt it in the old layout.

Atlas does not ship the "short" switches any longer that are listed in the RRT library. Some have a removable piece included to make the "short" version
#But I can remove the straight as I have seen in some pictures.

I believe that you would be happy with # 5 turnouts for the crossovers.
#Sorry, but I did not understand.

W&W posted:

Leandro,

Agree with Moonman comments on Atlas track.  Glad you decided to put yout plan on the forum.  Members on this forum have been invaluable to me in the past.  If I can help in any way, continue to email me.  Keep us posted.

 

Craig, Thank you !!!

Leandro Garcia posted:

Moonman posted:

Hi Leandro,

I have a few thoughts about working with Atlas track.

You don't really need the 40" Flex straights. They don't flex like HO track.

You can cut any track to a custom length or arc angle. Order item #6057 when you order the track. Those replace the ties when the track is cut and add the snap connectors.

Be sure to order enough extra rail joiners. Good to have in inventory.

Atlas doesn't ship the "short" switches any longer that are listed in the RRT library. Some have a removable piece included to make the "short" version

I believe that you would be happier with #5 turnouts for the crossovers.

Give the Atlas track planning software a try. It supports multiple languages. You may find it easier to learn.

You do not really need the 40 "Flex straights. They do not flex like HO track.
#Carl, you're not the first person to tell me that! I'm going to use 054 and 063 is it best that I buy the curves already in the measure?

yes.

You can cut any track to a custom length or arc angle. Order item # 6057 when you order the track. Those replace the ties when the track is cut and add the snap connectors.
#Thanks for this tip I did not know and I will buy.

Be sure to order enough extra rail joiners. Good to have in inventory.
#Yes, I felt it in the old layout.

Atlas does not ship the "short" switches any longer that are listed in the RRT library. Some have a removable piece included to make the "short" version
#But I can remove the straight as I have seen in some pictures.

Yes

I believe that you would be happy with # 5 turnouts for the crossovers.
#Sorry, but I did not understand.

Smaller radius, almost flat switch for mainline crossovers at the top and bottom

I have modified your track plan in the Atlas software. I have Attached the software and the Enzoville layout file.

Here's a 3D:

I added reversing loops, #5 mainline crossovers. The fitment is somewhat different. I am not sure why you the O54 switch complex in the East.

Anyway, good luck with the rebuild and I hope this provides some ideas.

PS - right-click & save-as for the files.

Moonman posted:

Leandro Garcia posted:

Moonman posted:

Hi Leandro,

I have a few thoughts about working with Atlas track.

You don't really need the 40" Flex straights. They don't flex like HO track.

You can cut any track to a custom length or arc angle. Order item #6057 when you order the track. Those replace the ties when the track is cut and add the snap connectors.

Be sure to order enough extra rail joiners. Good to have in inventory.

Atlas doesn't ship the "short" switches any longer that are listed in the RRT library. Some have a removable piece included to make the "short" version

I believe that you would be happier with #5 turnouts for the crossovers.

Give the Atlas track planning software a try. It supports multiple languages. You may find it easier to learn.

You do not really need the 40 "Flex straights. They do not flex like HO track.
#Carl, you're not the first person to tell me that! I'm going to use 054 and 063 is it best that I buy the curves already in the measure?

yes.

You can cut any track to a custom length or arc angle. Order item # 6057 when you order the track. Those replace the ties when the track is cut and add the snap connectors.
#Thanks for this tip I did not know and I will buy.

Be sure to order enough extra rail joiners. Good to have in inventory.
#Yes, I felt it in the old layout.

Atlas does not ship the "short" switches any longer that are listed in the RRT library. Some have a removable piece included to make the "short" version
#But I can remove the straight as I have seen in some pictures.

Yes

I believe that you would be happy with # 5 turnouts for the crossovers.
#Sorry, but I did not understand.

Smaller radius, almost flat switch for mainline crossovers at the top and bottom

I have modified your track plan in the Atlas software. I have Attached the software and the Enzoville layout file.

Here's a 3D:

I added reversing loops, #5 mainline crossovers. The fitment is somewhat different. I am not sure why you the O54 switch complex in the East.

Anyway, good luck with the rebuild and I hope this provides some ideas.

PS - right-click & save-as for the files.

Carl, Thank you very much !!

Your work was very good and really you gave good ideas.

I'm will install the Atlas software.

I have a doubt. Why use #5 in replace 054 switch?

Thanks !

 

 

 

 

Leandro, I'm sorry to hear about your situation. It was such a pleasure to visit your home and layout! You did such a wonderful job on Enzoville, considering the resources available to you in Brasil. Check your FB messenger when you can! Lots of luck on your next masterpiece! 

Works to new space !

 

Here is another plan for your 15' X 24' layout space (assuming access to the right).  [your diagram is 15X24, as are your dimensions in centimeters.   Minimum O-63 for the outer route, and O-54 for the inside route, which I left as you specified, perhaps for easier access to the center of the loops.   

There is a siding to the center-left to stop at the station and as a switching lead.   There is route to connect the loops which is O-72 minimum all around the perimeter and over the bridge to the right.   You could build the bridge track on a folding table if you like, or leave it as a long lift-out bridge (must be ridged construction).

Can be expanded, with O-72 minimum for the outer route if you like.   Additional yard tracks can be added at the bottom.  The triangular access and viewing areas are also great places to take photos.

-Ken

Ken-Oscale posted:

Here is another plan for your 15' X 24' layout space (assuming access to the right).  [your diagram is 15X24, as are your dimensions in centimeters.   Minimum O-63 for the outer route, and O-54 for the inside route, which I left as you specified, perhaps for easier access to the center of the loops.   

There is a siding to the center-left to stop at the station and as a switching lead.   There is route to connect the loops which is O-72 minimum all around the perimeter and over the bridge to the right.   You could build the bridge track on a folding table if you like, or leave it as a long lift-out bridge (must be ridged construction).

Can be expanded, with O-72 minimum for the outer route if you like.   Additional yard tracks can be added at the bottom.  The triangular access and viewing areas are also great places to take photos.

-Ken

Ken, 

Fantastico, really a great idea, thank you! ! What program did you use? Can you share the file?

Thanks,

Leandro, I am using AnyRail, which has a free download at AnyRail.com.   You can load and view this plan with the free version, but cannot save any changes (until you purchase the software).   You can hover the mouse over any section of track to see what it is at the bottom of the screen.  Glad you like it!   Here is an improvement along with the AnyRail file.

Ken, Thanks !

I know AnyRail !!

Hello !

New details from the work in new space !

Looks like you’ve been working hard. New space looks great!

Leandro,

I agree looks like some serious work is taking place on your train room.   Go with Kens Engineering design, as usual his work is top shelf.

Post some pictures as you build, love to see the work in progress!

This should be a real nice Train Room, remember the dehumidifiers!

PCRR/Dave

Thanks for sharing the construction photos. Its great to see the way things are done in other parts of the world. That's a great looking room. Love the windows.

 

 

Go Leandro! What a great idea you have and you're getting lots of great ideas to complement the ones you already have. One question: unless I'm a bad guesser (quite possible) your new room doesn't appear to be twelve feet wide? On closer looks, I'm probably a bad guesser, but I really do like your lighting arrangements. Keep us informed, please. What trains will you run?

W&W posted:

Looks like you’ve been working hard. New space looks great!

Craig, Thanks !

How is your progress?

Pine Creek Railroad posted:

Leandro,

I agree looks like some serious work is taking place on your train room.   Go with Kens Engineering design, as usual his work is top shelf.

Post some pictures as you build, love to see the work in progress!

This should be a real nice Train Room, remember the dehumidifiers!

PCRR/Dave

Thanks, Dave !

Yes, I remenber the dehumidifiers!

12 monkeys posted:

Thanks for sharing the construction photos. Its great to see the way things are done in other parts of the world. That's a great looking room. Love the windows.

 

 

Thanks !

Virginian65 posted:

Go Leandro! What a great idea you have and you're getting lots of great ideas to complement the ones you already have. One question: unless I'm a bad guesser (quite possible) your new room doesn't appear to be twelve feet wide? On closer looks, I'm probably a bad guesser, but I really do like your lighting arrangements. Keep us informed, please. What trains will you run?

Hi ! Thanks !

It is 12.46 x 19.68 ft. I run Lionel Legacy only, but I think in new layout to input DCS MTH !

I would like many things, but I can't to use all space, so I did option to use 054 and 063.

I think in bridges, tunnel, upper and lower, but I don't know how to made all things !

 

Friends !

Really, I'm lost with my new track plan!

I thought about leaving room for a bench, etc, but some friends think I should expand to 072 at the very least!

When I try to do the track plans I have no idea and the plans are strange !!

I think I'll have to have a help from a professional.

What do you think?

Thank you

Are you talking about a work bench?

My suggestion, don’t have your work bench near the layout, I’ve found there’s always dust/debris floating around and getting into things on the work bench.  I’m looking at a solution to the same problem now.

Bob Delbridge posted:

Are you talking about a work bench?

My suggestion, don’t have your work bench near the layout, I’ve found there’s always dust/debris floating around and getting into things on the work bench.  I’m looking at a solution to the same problem now.

Yes, work bench ! I had not thought of that !

I would ask for help right here! There are some very talented track designers here that make some really nice plans and they like doing it too. Just give them the exact measurements of the space, any other specifics and what you want to have on your layout and they will come up with something for you. 

I am with you, track planning is probably my least favorite part of the hobby and my self designed plans are really terrible. 

rtr12 posted:

I would ask for help right here! There are some very talented track designers here that make some really nice plans and they like doing it too. Just give them the exact measurements of the space, any other specifics and what you want to have on your layout and they will come up with something for you. 

I am with you, track planning is probably my least favorite part of the hobby and my self designed plans are really terrible. 

Thanks !

designed plans are really terrible.....designed plans are really terrible ! Yes me too !

 

 

If none of the design folks reply to this thread, try starting a new one asking for layout plan design help or something like that. 

Good luck, I am sure you will come up with something by working with the good folks here.

Leandro, Your room looks great!  I'm with you, not very imaginative when it comes to layout design!  Hopefully someone will come up with some ideas to get things rolling.

Do you have a plan in mind?  12' x 20'.  I know exactly what I would build.

Thanks ! RTR12 !

Mark, yes ! Thanks !

William,

Do you have a plan in mind?  12' x 20'.  I know exactly what I would build.

So, I would like to have everything ! my son want bridge, tunnel, lake, city and industry. I know what not space enough for all this ! 

Room 12' x 19' !

I thought to use 072 for the curves and to try to put the curve up and other down due to lack of room for larger radius (an idea).

Control two trains at the same time and Legacy / DCS.

I already have MTH Station Red other buildings

I was forgetting the Turntable Atlas! (My dream was to change to Millhouse).

Thanks!

 

Leandro,

 

While you are still in the planning stage of the layout, take some time and paint the walls BEFORE you put any wood up!  I suggest a Cobalt Blue or similar shade. You can also paint some clouds. The darker blue will really make the clouds "pop". There are numerous tutorials on the web about how to do this. Jim Barrett had an article near the beginning of his building a layout series that explained it as well. The nice thing is if you don't like your work, you simply paint over it! By the way, MUCH easier to do this when there is no layout in the way.... Just figure out how high the layout will be and go from there.

 

Chris

LVHR

The new room is done !

 

 

The room looks great Leandro!  When will you be able to start building the new layout?

Nice work!

Mark Boyce posted:

The room looks great Leandro!  When will you be able to start building the new layout?

Mark, 

I still can not define my track plan so I have no idea when I'm going to start !

Thanks !

 

W&W posted:

Nice work!

Thanks, Craig !

The problem of eliminating humidity looks like it hasn't been solved so here is what I do.  My layout is in a high humidity location (basement) and during the summer I use a dehumidifier to dry the air. During winter its cold up here and the furnace is running so there is little humidity in the basement. IMO, you've got to keep the humidity below 50% to prevent rust and erosion.

 

Does the blue track cross over the yellow track.  I don't have RRtrack, so I am just looking at the capture.

Is there enough distance between the crossovers between the blue and yellow tracks and where the one track crosses over the other for a moderate grade?   It seems to me that the crossovers between inner and outer track should be moved. 

Mark, 

I will put the blue track in upper and yellow track downward !
Don't will have crossing !

Okay I understand now!  Thank you 

Hi, 

 

 

Hi Liandro,

I cannot see how the elevation will work for the green track. It appears that the crossover switch from blue to green at 7 0'clock would pin down  the green line. I think you will have grades that are very steep.

Would you share a 3D image or the layout file? I have RR-Track.

Nice design, have you thought about keeping the 2 lines separate.  Maybe a siding or small 2 track staging yard on the longer end of the dog bone. I am in the same spot as you, we bought a different house and in the process of redoing the future train room. I like the idea of a giant dog bone shape bent back onto itself. I will be following your progress. Nick T.  

Hi, Guys !

I am working in my new layout with Rrtrack, but I'm having trouble with him !

I want to make an elevating in my layout but I don't know how to make the effect, but my track stay on air !

What did I do wrong?

Are either of these your designs or just examples of what you are trying to do? If you can, attach the RR-Track file you are working on and I'll try to help.

Hi Leandro,

Double-click on the elevated track to select all of it - next - right-click and select > Toggle - overpass

Then, you can find trestles in Lionel or MTH to put under it or make an object and extrude it for a trestle.

 

 

 

 

 

DoubleDAZ posted:

Are either of these your designs or just examples of what you are trying to do? If you can, attach the RR-Track file you are working on and I'll try to help.

Thanks, I attached.

Okay, Leandro, here you go, I hope this is what you were trying to get. If it is, your problem was you were trying to draw the table outline using the Object/Basic Shapes/Polygon tool and that doesn't work for what you want. You have to use the Action/New Base/Poly tool in the Terrain View to draw a New Base. That's how you get it to display the white heights to show elevations. Hope this helps.

Edit: Looking at your plan though, the part you have elevated (Red in 2nd photo) is connected to the lower part at the crossovers on the left and bottom, so that will not work. You also have some Blue track crossing over other tracks at the same height, so that will not work. You may have wanted these reversed, but they didn't come out that way.

 

 

leandro,

The lack of good 3D in RR-T makes this difficult. I can see that when you build, the center loop will be at a lower height. I tried raising all track and buildings to 15.50cm and then setting a grade off the center straight. The track would descend into a tunnel and then out again. So, I set that track 0.00cm. Grade track is in red. ~ 5%

The 3D is still very poor.

It will look nice when you build. Adjust the framing to accommodate the grade below the main table height.

Now, to find places for the rest of the accessories and buildings.

DoubleDAZ posted:

Okay, Leandro, here you go, I hope this is what you were trying to get. If it is, your problem was you were trying to draw the table outline using the Object/Basic Shapes/Polygon tool and that doesn't work for what you want. You have to use the Action/New Base/Poly tool in the Terrain View to draw a New Base. That's how you get it to display the white heights to show elevations. Hope this helps.

Edit: Looking at your plan though, the part you have elevated (Red in 2nd photo) is connected to the lower part at the crossovers on the left and bottom, so that will not work. You also have some Blue track crossing over other tracks at the same height, so that will not work. You may have wanted these reversed, but they didn't come out that way.

 

 

Dave, Thank You !

That's exactly what I wanted to do.

 

Moonman posted:

leandro,

The lack of good 3D in RR-T makes this difficult. I can see that when you build, the center loop will be at a lower height. I tried raising all track and buildings to 15.50cm and then setting a grade off the center straight. The track would descend into a tunnel and then out again. So, I set that track 0.00cm. Grade track is in red. ~ 5%

The 3D is still very poor.

It will look nice when you build. Adjust the framing to accommodate the grade below the main table height.

Now, to find places for the rest of the accessories and buildings.

Carl,

Yes ! This my idea, but I don't know this is the best idea ! That's what I said to Dave!

If you had another idea it will be welcome !

Thank you your help !

 

I rearranged the track at the bottom which I thinl will improve operations.

Jan

Nice change Jan. I'd also consider switching around the road and the passenger station so passenger trains don't foul the mainline while loading/unloading. The short spur on the left can be extended by using 2 curved pieces in place of the half-curve.

Jan posted:

I rearranged the track at the bottom which I thinl will improve operations.

Jan

Jan, Thank you for your changes ! I liked and now I can think in to elevate external to 20 cm or more !

DoubleDAZ posted:

Nice change Jan. I'd also consider switching around the road and the passenger station so passenger trains don't foul the mainline while loading/unloading. The short spur on the left can be extended by using 2 curved pieces in place of the half-curve.

I swapped the station with the road and extended the spur. Now you can pull a passenger train into the station and still have other trains running through. I also moved items to the right layers.

 

DoubleDAZ posted:

I swapped the station with the road and extended the spur. Now you can pull a passenger train into the station and still have other trains running through. I also moved items to the right layers.

 

Great Idea ! Thank you !

I really liked that !

Moonman posted:

Leandro Garcia posted:

Jan posted:

I rearranged the track at the bottom which I thinl will improve operations.

Jan

Jan, Thank you for your changes ! I liked and now I can think in to elevate external to 20 cm or more !

I don't see where you can elevate the green line to make it useful. The switch tie -ins to the black on the left and at the bottom pin down the green line to black line height.

The green line from 8 o'clock to 4 o'clock at the bottom would be elevated. This would block the view of the yard and accessories.

Here is my fixes. The switches connecting the green line and black line were removed. Assume that the black line is at 0cm height. The green line climbs from the tunnel at -15.50cm to 0cm, then climbs to +15.50cm around the roundhouse on open trestle to land on the straight. it is on land all the way around to the opposite corner, where it descends to 0cm on open trestle again , then descends in the tunnel under the black line at 9 o'clock to -15.50cm.

The black line needs the 4-way crossover at 9 o'clock as in an above version. The green line will not be able to change direction on the run.

This provides the elevation look that you want at the cost of disconnecting the green from the black line.

Jan, I understand I was wrong for I not want disconnect both tracks !
Thank you !

Leandro,

Those were my changes for another idea - I quoted your answer to Jan's changes. I will keep them separate.

 

I don't see where you can elevate the green line to make it useful. The switch tie -ins to the black on the left and at the bottom pin down the green line to black line height.

The green line from 8 o'clock to 4 o'clock at the bottom would be elevated. This would block the view of the yard and accessories.

Here is my fixes. The switches connecting the green line and black line were removed. Assume that the black line is at 0cm height. The green line climbs from the tunnel at -15.50cm to 0cm, then climbs to +15.50cm around the roundhouse on open trestle to land on the straight. it is on land all the way around to the opposite corner, where it descends to 0cm on open trestle again , then descends in the tunnel under the black line at 9 o'clock to -15.50cm.

The black line needs the 4-way crossover at 9 o'clock as in an above version. The green line will not be able to change direction on the run.

This provides the elevation look that you want at the cost of disconnecting the green from the black line.

Hi, Guys !

A little update after the tips!

 

 

Hi, Guys !!

New changes !

I decide to remove turntable but I'm not right about my decision yet. My decision-making was to had more city, houses, etc. 

Thanks,

Hi Leandro,

Yes, that is a good decision.

I cannot get the answer that I want from RR-Track. I believe that you have too much of the end semicircle behind the city as grade track. If a quarter of that can be left at the main level height, more space for the city can be created. A road could cross the two lines and disappear at wall and table corner. More scenic items can be added.

If you wish to have a turntable/roundhouse in the future, the yard area could be reworked. You could also added more spurs for engine storage. How you use the layout will tell you if you need any changes.

I will try to convert the track plan to SCARM to enable a better 3D view to demonstrate your layout.

 

PS: Sorry about the World Cup results. We weren't even there.

 

Carl, there are other problems with the upper grade too. I don't know if you noticed, but the section by Red line was 1.37" high and the original grade started there. It ran just around the half circle and was almost 5%. On the other side of the Red line the elevation is 0" and abruptly went up to the 1.37". The lower grade was also almost 5%, so I added some tracks to both grades (Purple) to get them down to around 3%. They can both be extended further to get them a little lower.

FWIW, I also agree with deleting the turntable, but that's because I don't intend to collect engines and, like Leandro, I don't have room for a "real" yard complete with roundhouse, engine repair facility, lead tracks, etc.

 

Moonman posted:

Hi Leandro,

Yes, that is a good decision.

I cannot get the answer that I want from RR-Track. I believe that you have too much of the end semicircle behind the city as grade track. If a quarter of that can be left at the main level height, more space for the city can be created. A road could cross the two lines and disappear at wall and table corner. More scenic items can be added.

If you wish to have a turntable/roundhouse in the future, the yard area could be reworked. You could also added more spurs for engine storage. How you use the layout will tell you if you need any changes.

I will try to convert the track plan to SCARM to enable a better 3D view to demonstrate your layout.

 

PS: Sorry about the World Cup results. We weren't even there.

Carl, Thanks !

Carl, Thanks !

I'm still deciding how make my benchwork ! I don't know if I create all benchwork at a higher or lower height because I want difference high plains.

" A road could cross the two lines and disappear at wall and table corner" Yes ! I had thinking therein.

DoubleDAZ posted:

Carl, there are other problems with the upper grade too. I don't know if you noticed, but the section by Red line was 1.37" high and the original grade started there. It ran just around the half circle and was almost 5%. On the other side of the Red line the elevation is 0" and abruptly went up to the 1.37". The lower grade was also almost 5%, so I added some tracks to both grades (Purple) to get them down to around 3%. They can both be extended further to get them a little lower.

FWIW, I also agree with deleting the turntable, but that's because I don't intend to collect engines and, like Leandro, I don't have room for a "real" yard complete with roundhouse, engine repair facility, lead tracks, etc.

 

Dave, Thanks,

"I also agree with deleting the turntable, but that's because I don't intend to collect engines and, like Leandro, I don't have room for a "real" yard complete with roundhouse, engine repair facility, lead tracks, etc."  Exactly ! My friend and my father open my eyes about turntable...but I think to create small repair for locomotives .....

 

 

Hi, Guys !

I need one more help !

I want to put signal in my layout but I have one question. When I should put Train Signals 3-Lights Block or Railway Dwarf signal and where?

 

 

Thanks !

Hi Leandro,

The dwarf signal is used to indicate switch position and in yards. Because it is short, it is for low speed areas. Most place them near a switch and hook to the switch controller to change the aspect color. Through is green, Red is diverging. This is relative to your mainline path.

The tall signals are for main line use. They are for train speed control. Red is stop and wait for orders, yellow has different rules, but is like slow, proceed with caution and green is maximum speed for that area or by railroad rules.

Most will place a couple on the mainlines where visitors can see them to mimic traffic control. They are usually green when  a train approaches a signal block, the train triggers the relay when it enters the block, then it turns red for time, then yellow, then green again when the train has cleared the block.

You can search them forum for threads on the ways to control the signals.

 

Just want to jump in - I like this track plan

Perfect manageable size - good luck

Moonman posted:

Hi Leandro,

The dwarf signal is used to indicate switch position and in yards. Because it is short, it is for low speed areas. Most place them near a switch and hook to the switch controller to change the aspect color. Through is green, Red is diverging. This is relative to your mainline path.

The tall signals are for main line use. They are for train speed control. Red is stop and wait for orders, yellow has different rules, but is like slow, proceed with caution and green is maximum speed for that area or by railroad rules.

Most will place a couple on the mainlines where visitors can see them to mimic traffic control. They are usually green when  a train approaches a signal block, the train triggers the relay when it enters the block, then it turns red for time, then yellow, then green again when the train has cleared the block.

You can search them forum for threads on the ways to control the signals.

 

Carl !

Thank you !

dorfj2 posted:

Just want to jump in - I like this track plan

Perfect manageable size - good luck

Thanks !

Finally, I start my new layout !

 

Leandro,

That is a great start!  I see your inspector is right in the middle of things!!   Or is she the master carpenter?  

Mark Boyce posted:

Leandro,

That is a great start!  I see your inspector is right in the middle of things!!   Or is she the master carpenter?  

Mark Thanks ! Yes ! She is inspector and she want the fast construction !

Yes Leandro, fast construction would be expected! 

Leandro Garcia posted:

Mark Boyce posted:

Leandro,

That is a great start!  I see your inspector is right in the middle of things!!   Or is she the master carpenter?  

Mark Thanks ! Yes ! She is inspector and she want the fast construction !

That looks like a great start and I bet that has to be exciting to you as well.

I bet the inspector is in a hurry to move up from inspector to train engineer.  

That's a great age for inspectors and engineers, enjoy them while you can before they grow up!

After a lot of work some pictures  !!

It’s coming along nicely!  Your helper in the middle aged just a bit since last time!  ;-)

Ola Leandro,

I saw this climbing curve as an exposed curve next to a cliff. Are you making it a tunnel?

Looks good.  You’re doing a great job. 

Moonman posted:

Ola Leandro,

I saw this climbing curve as an exposed curve next to a cliff. Are you making it a tunnel?

Yes, but it's still missing construction and a bridge in curve until tunnel !

Hello Leandro, I've been following your progress since the start. I am curious what species of wood is your bench work made from. It seems very straight and somewhat free from knots and imperfections.

Steve

Rescued Trains posted:

Hello Leandro, I've been following your progress since the start. I am curious what species of wood is your bench work made from. It seems very straight and somewhat free from knots and imperfections.

Steve

Hi, Steve ! Thanks !

So, In Brazil the name this Wood is " Pinus " and I Think in EUA " the name is " Pine Wood" . I bought in big Store " Leroy Merlin" the similar the Home Depot or Lowes !
I like much !

 

 

Updates this weekend !

 

Leandro, Well the Pine looks better than what I see at Lowe’s and Home Depot!  LOL

That is great progress!  I see a Canyon on the end for a trestle I presume!  Yet another helper caught in the middle!!  LOL  looks like they are enjoying helping you!!  That is huge!

Mark Boyce posted:

Leandro, Well the Pine looks better than what I see at Lowe’s and Home Depot!  LOL

That is great progress!  I see a Canyon on the end for a trestle I presume!  Yet another helper caught in the middle!!  LOL  looks like they are enjoying helping you!!  That is huge!

Mark,

I do the relay with my assistants! Enzo did holes, screwed and he liked !

Yes, My Canyon will be my big challenge ! 
Thanks !

Looking at the photos, did you plan for electrical outlets? I only found one and it looked like it was hidden by some bench work.

Otherwise looks like you are making great progress.  Just don't take short cuts in the rush to get trains running,  You and your son will have plenty of time to enjoy them when everything is done just right to your satisfaction.

Suggest that you place your biggest engine on the curves near the walls and tunnels to check that any overhang will not hit them.  Check the overhang running engine in both directions,  Also check overhang with engine backing up, as some engine cabs will shift position and stick out to hit wall or tunnel edges.  Easy to adjust roadbed and tunnel openings now before all track is fastened permanently.  (Ask me how I know about engine overhang hitting wall problems )

rrman posted:

Looking at the photos, did you plan for electrical outlets? I only found one and it looked like it was hidden by some bench work.

Otherwise looks like you are making great progress.  Just don't take short cuts in the rush to get trains running,  You and your son will have plenty of time to enjoy them when everything is done just right to your satisfaction.

Suggest that you place your biggest engine on the curves near the walls and tunnels to check that any overhang will not hit them.  Check the overhang running engine in both directions,  Also check overhang with engine backing up, as some engine cabs will shift position and stick out to hit wall or tunnel edges.  Easy to adjust roadbed and tunnel openings now before all track is fastened permanently.  (Ask me how I know about engine overhang hitting wall problems )

RRman, 

In photos not show, but I have 10 electrical outlets !

I had the same problem with my Big Boy in wall at my first layout and now will be my first test!

I like to draw. Couldn't pull off a flexing S. An S presents rollercoaster type track issues if you change the grade. An S must stay flat. A straight allows a twist/tilt transition time. The coupler angles are opposing; one faces left, one faces right, fighting to drag or be dragged off the rails. (Lionel couplers DO vary slightly in size over the years. This may or may not be an issue at the moment. Long cars really don't like them.

I use a rough cut 2x4" with a 1/8" strip of paneling as a clearance guide. Where I forgot to hold the panel to the 2x4 my E-33 handrail bumps the wall.   

A locomotive snow plow took out a foam porch once.

Because of my not considering backdrop thickness (1/8th" tops), four spots on 3 layouts get clipped with some locos.   The roofs I count seperately; cab roofs with big overhang; 2 spots one layout. Tunnels; 3 spots, two on long cars, one on a portal by a Berk cab's roof. 

Adriatic posted:

Wrong thread, my friend. This is Asymair95's layout.

Ooops. I'm not entirely sure its my fault though. I'm having serious browser issues today. I think it closed the other page and added that post here... I'll clean up soon, but right now the edit and attachment tools are too angry.

Adriatic posted:

Ooops. I'm not entirely sure its my fault though. I'm having serious browser issues today. I think it closed the other page and added that post here... I'll clean up soon, but right now the edit and attachment tools are too angry.

Adriatic, Thank you !

I had the same problem in my first layout I had to dig a hole in wall !!