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I converted my first car.  It was an old gondola kit.  It took some trial and error, and I ended up having to cut out the bolster to get the ride height I wanted and the Kadee at the right height without lots of shims.

Would someone be willing to recommend the best kadee couplers and explain what the new type E coupler head offers.  I think the 805 is probably what I want?

Recommendation of screw to mount the kadees and where to get it.   Size, length, self tapping?

Are there pre-made pads to use so the height is correct?  I see there are shims but it seems that some cars are much higher and will require some kind of large pad.

Recommendation of the right size washer to hold trucks on?  Right now I am using Lionel trucks.

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davidbross posted:

It was an old gondola kit. 

Would someone be willing to recommend the best kadee couplers and explain what the new type E coupler head offers.  I think the 805 is probably what I want?

Recommendation of screw to mount the kadees and where to get it.   Size, length, self tapping?

Might be useful to provide the name of the kit and materials involved. 

Wood kit -  805 or 804 will work depending on how irrational one might be regarding plastic vs. metal coupler. if it's wood, then I use #0 x 3/8" wood screws; plastic or resin cold use the same screws or drill and tap for 2/56 machine screws. Brass kit - drill and tap

 

I've been converting for a number of years now. Every type of car seems to require something different.

As far as couplers. I have both. I prefer the 805's. They mate with the stock 3 rail coupler better and just my opinion. I think the 805's perform better with the uncoupling magnets. Springs although exposed are easily replaced. The other style couplers look better but the off center shanks on some just don't look right even though they serve a purpose to eliminate some of the shimming.

 For screws. I use 2 56 threaded for most applications. For MTH and Atlas I use 2mm. Buy a few lengths. 5/16, 3/8,1/2 and 8, 10 mm seem to be the lengths most often used. Everything is available at most hardware stores. Best to buy bulk bags from Microfasteners. Around $30 spent will get you started. Unless your dealing with metal. The pan head screws will usually form there own threads. Atlas cars are tapped with 2mm holes. The Kadee's don't quite line up with the stock holes. You can drill and tap new holes. Most option to open up the 2 mounting holes in the Kadee with a #43 drill. This will allow you enough wiggle room to catch the 2 screws and by alternately tightening each screw. You can walk the coupler on.

 As far as shims. Buy the ones from Micromark. For thicker shims or fine tuning with thinner shims. Scale City Designs has laser cut ones. I keep a good supply of both on hand.

 If you are doing Weaver cars. When you remove the coupler and place the car directly on the truck. It will look good but the turning radius can be hampered. Often times just cutting out a rib on the underside of the car is all you need to do to get the truck to pivot. You won't see it and it looks much better than raising the truck with washers.

Last edited by Dave_C

Agree with Dave C's recommendations.

For more help, see my article on how to convert rolling stock to Kadees in OGR Magazine Run 294 Oct/Nov 2017. Many of the techniques I learned on the 3RS forum. Also look at the excellent YouTube videos by forum members Laid off Sick and Centralfan1976.

Bob Glorioso

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