AF 751 Log Loader Restoration Project

I was going through some old pictures this week and came across these.  One of the most enjoyable aspects of this hobby for me is finding items most people would think to be junk and restoring them.  I bought a box of American Flyer stuff for $25 and decided to restore some of the items.  Below is the most extreme example which I think turned out quite nicely.

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Nicely done - so what's your secret(s) in terms of removing all the old paint, rust, etc. and then repainting?  So you have a bead blaster or ?  I assume the repainting is done with a rattle can - which from the looks of it matches the original Gilbert paint color (or close to it). 

You don't mention the motor restoration - replace parts or ?

Nice work.

No bead blaster.  I use Castrol Super Clean on the bakelite base and roof and regular paint stripper on all the metal parts.  For the real stubborn paint I use a wire wheel on my dremel or on my bench grinder.  Same wire wheel technique or Evapo-rust for the rust.  Paint is all rattle can, I can list the colors later today if anyone is interested.  

The induction motor is rock solid with no commutator or brushes.  Typically all that's required is thoroughly cleaning the gear box and re-lubing and putting a drop or two of oil on the motor.

TRAINSBOB,  Your work is superb!  Thank you for sharing!

A couple of questions. 

Was there pitting of the metal on the severely corroded parts?  If so, did you use a filler or some other technique to smooth them out? 

Also, on the blackened metal parts that had some rust on them, how did you handle that and maintain the blackening?

Thanks, Mike A.

trainsbob posted:

No bead blaster.  I use Castrol Super Clean on the bakelite base and roof and regular paint stripper on all the metal parts.  For the real stubborn paint I use a wire wheel on my dremel or on my bench grinder.  Same wire wheel technique or Evapo-rust for the rust.  Paint is all rattle can, I can list the colors later today if anyone is interested.  

The induction motor is rock solid with no commutator or brushes.  Typically all that's required is thoroughly cleaning the gear box and re-lubing and putting a drop or two of oil on the motor.

Great work, very impressive!  

  I’d like to know the rattle can colors when you get a chance.  I brought this #770 home today and the yellow & green look to be the same shades as the log loader. 

3E1B064D-708C-4014-B084-1CA9FBCFF8D8Tom

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Mikeaa posted:

Also, on the blackened metal parts that had some rust on them, how did you handle that and maintain the blackening?

Thanks, Mike A.

Mike,

I sometimes do restoration too, and have found that for blackened parts, after removing the rust, gun bluing works great to replicate the finish on them. You can get it an some hardware stores, or anywhere firearms are sold.

 

 

There was some pitting mainly evident in photos #19 & 22.  I think I may have put an extra coat of primer on it to smooth it out some but it was pretty severe.  On this one I painted the track black.  On others where the rust isn't severe I have had good luck using Radio Shack Control/Contact Cleaner and Lubricant spray and fine steel wool.  Just spray some on the steel wool and rub the metal until the rust is gone.  The blackening remains and the lubricant acts as a rust preventer also.  

The spray paints I used are:

Rustoleum Painters Touch 2X Gloss Marigold #249862,  Valspar Satin Tropical Foliage #85082,  Duplicolor Chev Orange DE1607 (for door & window frames).  I don't remember the red but I think just about any gloss or satin red will work.  I primed the plastic parts with Painters Touch 2X Flat Gray Primer #249088.  I like the Painters Touch products because they are plastic friendly.  For the metal I used a Rustoleum metal primer but you can use the Painters Touch too.

 

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