Skip to main content

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Adriatic,

Here is a link to the (Italian) RivaRossi 0 gauge catalog: http://www.rivarossi-memory.it...ogo_Zero_1971-72.htm (click on the pages on the left to expand).

The IHB model came in 2 kits: one for the loco with plastic wheels and one to motorize  the loco and this included the metal wheels. The Casey Jones model also came in 2 kits, however the model kit already included the metal wheels and the motorizing kit was simpler. Both models had the same motor but I do not think you can use the one kit to motorize the other. I might have somewhere the Casey Jones instructions, but if so they are deep in some pile. The IHB I acquired much later and the instructions were still "on top" of the pile. What information do you need?

Regards

Fred

 

As it turns out, maybe intstruction, but maybe nothing. I'll let you know in a few days.

  I have both CJ kits on the way from Mike G. I thought it was just the shell kit, but he must have saw this thread, because he let me know the powertrain kit was included too.

  I thought I was going to be kit bashing the power, and got too excited each time to ask about instructions. Ive wanted something to represent one of Casey's trains for yeats.  I even contemplated bashing the Marx William Cook.

   Someone had mentioned a kit without the instrictions, and I had looked at a few while waiting to see if a previous deal for it was followed through on. It wasn't, and I'd rather send my money to a great guy like him anyhow, so Im glad I waited it out. But I forgot who didn't have the instructions with the kit, lol.

   Likely not a big deal; I seldom built models by using them anyhow, but they are nice if an issue rears and kicks.

Either way you'll know when I do, thank you.

   I have to complete it with photos and steps in a post for the forum, just to uphold part of the bargain, (Oh, darnit ) If you folks would like a "heads up" when I post, just say so. In fact, another Rivarossi or two, all in one thread would be awsomI, if you want to add something...or keep this one going.

You can count on it Mike! Thanks again,& again,& again.

Oh man...Your killing me Marty. I already double head my Generals; this could get interesting as I planned on running them at the same time as an "era" thing.

Do these flanges stand a chance on Super O, or will I be hand laying some 2rail?  Railing an axle, they seem under gauge on tube and SO, lots of wiggle room.(Euro O is slightly different from American O if I recall. I forgotten by how much, but I know it differs, or used to anyhow.

This has nothing to do with Mike, he packs as expected:

An envelope failed en route and a rod spacer found a crack and fell out. No big deal. Finding a washer/ spacer should do the trick, but the original spacer is stainless. I'm going to raid a guy's HO junk box and hope I find something. It ironically was the largest of them that found a gap in the well sealed shipping box. But still, it's only 4.5mm od X 2.55 mm i.d. X .46mm thick (.177 X .1 X .018 inches -ish)

A few others that are way more critical  got stuck to the tape right near the dented corner of the shipper, which had caused a very small gap. I dissected the box; no luck

Ok, Trainnut is going to graciously host this Rivarossi party while I build.

I started a trial assembly, but decided to work on the tender first to get used to working with this plastic. It's a hard shiney black styrene similar in look to a brand new post war tender. There is little flash, even at the flow holes. I'm tempted to not paint it, but we'll see how it looks, and how I feel about things later. The fit is pretty good. Cornections for the pieces have a series of 2 small teats here and there at the corners that rest crossed together and once filled with glued should make for good strong anchor points. I'll use up some ancient Kmart brand tube of styrene glue from the 70s. I saved a few tubes for its quality, but this should fittingly finish off the last tube.

Here is the instructions header and parts list for the motor kit before I get rolling. Good advice is listed. These are pretty good instructions from what I see off fhand. Red in diagrams are from the electric kit, and black is the model kit. I'd label the bags with a sharpie and not mix things as placement in bags, and count on screws is a puzzle that should sort itself as you go. EG. #32 &#50 are nearly the same screw. But some are printed red and some black, and the correct screw number can be found in both bags, and each bag holds a different. Amount, so it's a counting juggle on totals, and totals let bag to id them. (I have extras and am going to cheat)) Had I realized this, I would have created a key list, but too late.

 IMG_20161013_154943IMG_20161013_154952IMG_20161013_155000IMG_20161013_155008

 IMG_20161013_160524

Step 9- the trucks

 

This is where I began, and right away ran into an issue, so I'm glad that I did start here, it gives me time to work on it before the loco is done.IIl post the text next post, this is a late addition to a long post.

IMG_20161013_155953

Two of the tender axel's were lost in shipping; part of that envelope splitting open. It shouldn't be too hard to fab them if I cant find more

The tips step has a 1.13mm(.045") dia. shaft, and each step is about 3.85mm(.15")long. The thick portion 1.95mm(.075) dia. for 37.95mm(1.48) step to step, with a total length at 45.8mm(1.8") tip to tip. Any ideas let me know. I'll use the two I do have have, one on each truck for now.

One wheel set finger pressed together, but the other needed a vice to press one of the wheels,, but barely. The wheels have cooling fins and do look great imo.IMG_20161016_094249

 

The parts. There is a lionel knuckle for comparison by that GIGANTIC copy of the old school HO type the kit includes, and a toy coupler I'll use till I locate a plastic dummy lobster claw or a Kd version that works with lobster claws. There is a scale coupler and gear box that body mounts by snapping in place that is  included too. It looks easy to swap systems at a whim; nice

The pins are for ballast plates in the tender

.IMG_20161016_101911

 

That HO-ish coupler could be heated/bent/trimmed to work in a pinch, I bet.

Not much side to side swing on the stock parts. There is a cast ridge that locks the hO ish one in place. File that off and it would center by spring action. The draw bar has notches that severely limit is swing. It looks like it swings enough for 031 curves, but I will take some of the limiting plastic off with a dremel just in case it rides tubular ok, it will be set for 0-27 too.

(Edit: no trimming needed for the tender to take an 0-27 turn behind a General, but this AHM 4-6-0 engine is 0-36 minimum )

.

IMG_20161016_100217 IMG_20161016_095158

 

 

One truck had some flash at the arrow to remove from the pocket. But others were perfect. The trucks s screw together, no glue needed . Its side frame screws being correct is a bit of a puzzle having to do with screw counts supplied in each bag, from each kit. I'm ignoring that puzzle and using the longest with pointed ends because of a two thread advantage over the self tappers, which I ran in first for the cutting action, then swapped in the longer. If I feel the need  for longer ones again later for the intended use, I have some longer ones I'm sure.IMG_20161016_100959

To be continued........

Attachments

Images (11)
  • IMG_20161013_155953
  • IMG_20161013_154943
  • IMG_20161013_154952
  • IMG_20161013_155000
  • IMG_20161013_155008
  • IMG_20161013_160524
  • IMG_20161016_094249
  • IMG_20161016_101911
  • IMG_20161016_100217
  • IMG_20161016_095158
  • IMG_20161016_100959
Last edited by Adriatic

If you "paste" in pictures, you can see them on your device but no one else can see them.  You have 2 options:

1.  use the Add attachments link

2.  upload them to a photo sharing site, then copy the url. Back in the forum click the photo icon (it looks like a little mountain) and paste in the url.

The second option gives you more control when mixing pictures and text.  The first option can be quirky (when using my iPad) unless you upload all the pictures then add the text.

Thank but I was using the attachment tool with FF, on Android, which needs an add-on to trick id to tablet, and request of desktop to even get a composer with the attachment tool and "format command header" vs a text only version. And this works better than the last android device! Copy paste in android doesn't work well here either, but/and the menu for copy paste constantly comes up too. All photos were done and showing normally before I hit post. Third device third OS since July , including windows, different providers, and I still can't go a week without issues on attachment's.

I can almost only link photos from my "bucket" embedding fails even more often. This isn't rooted and has few apps added, all inactive when I post, cache cleared for each session.

Yes they are! I almost told Mike to keep the box and ship as small as he could,  but I gave in to my inner graphics love and told him if the expense wasn't bad,  ship it.  I gave the OK to cut it some, but that was the keyliner not really worrying too much.

Taking a break from editing photos in my gallery now, more comming later.

IMG_20161017_205537IMG_20161017_205256IMG_20161017_205416

Thought went into this package, not just a slap and sell job. The whole of the graphic design is great. From box art to instructions on  gloss paper, it screams quality and pride. Even the separation partition is a yellow clone of the Casey Jones frame seen here.

Some missed views of the. Instructions

IMG_20161017_212831IMG_20161017_212734IMG_20161017_204906

Above  you can see the  screws are hardly different. Any combo would likely work. Notice each part is numbered ON the part as well as the tree. IMG_20161016_101305

The worst washer,  used where it is most likely to be replaced later, the coupler.

IMG_20161016_101759

 

As you can see,  these are done here. I have moved one axle to the  other truck just for sitting level till I manage axles to replace "Zip" the mailman folly. (remember Zip?)

IMG_20161016_101540

Anyone know what type of truck this is?

The scale coupler & box,  completed.IMG_20161016_093804

And since I showed the pins, the ballast weights for inside the tender body,  which is next. IMG_20161016_102105

Attachments

Images (11)
  • IMG_20161017_212831
  • IMG_20161017_212734
  • IMG_20161016_093804
  • IMG_20161016_101305
  • IMG_20161016_101759
  • IMG_20161017_204906
  • IMG_20161017_205416
  • IMG_20161016_102105
  • IMG_20161016_101540
  • IMG_20161017_205256
  • IMG_20161017_205537

IMG_20161013_160644

I'm going to focus on some parts photos to get em done for the most part. The Ruby box holds the electric kit motor, balast for Loco (bar) & tender, and envelopes of small stuff

. IMG_20161013_153900IMG_20161017_210023IMG_20161013_153912IMG_20161013_154107

If the small stuff is still in the envelope anyhow.  Look for tiny strays.

IMG_20161013_153721

IMG_20161013_153634

Don't forget to label the envelopes!

Continued..... (queued pics are stuck again, posting & refreshing)

Attachments

Images (7)
  • IMG_20161013_153900
  • IMG_20161013_160644
  • IMG_20161017_210023
  • IMG_20161013_154107
  • IMG_20161013_153721
  • IMG_20161013_153912
  • IMG_20161013_153634

I spent a long time hunting for a picture of those trucks but lady luck just giggled at me,  Thanks for the ID and source too,  both of you. I think I knew that as a kid and had been searching hoping it would bring a cool memory back to the forefront One of those forgotten tidbits I had picked up from Gramps. Seem to recall they were brass on an early electronic chuffing tender he had, old already by the 70s.(german name... Began with an O.??  ) The heavy duty look always appealed to me and they have a unique look to boot.

A few more parts, just to give an idea whats included.. I was always very curious about these kits. Had I seen a kit opened, I would have had one long ago.

This is the other bag to label (below) to figure out the screw puzzle. Also, the loose parts from the split envelope, kept in plastic trays now. There is a small wrench included. Remeber, in the 70s, use of metric hardware wasnt quite as wide spread like it is today, especially in America, fewer had metric tools. Im betting this is a metric wrench, or possibly even unique, made special for a scale hex head. When I get to the bolts, I'll measure them with a caliper to see.

IMG_20161013_153554IMG_20161013_153318IMG_20161013_153311

All the tiny brass still shines

IMG_20161013_153544

and the little 12v motors magnets can be felt easily by spinning it, sort of like a stepper motor. Im curious how many poles it has. IMG_20161013_154041

IMG_20161013_154006

And a shot of the tenders big parts since I accidentally loaded it, lolIMG_20161013_152852

Attachments

Images (7)
  • IMG_20161013_153554
  • IMG_20161013_153544
  • IMG_20161013_154006
  • IMG_20161013_153318
  • IMG_20161013_153311
  • IMG_20161013_154041
  • IMG_20161013_152852

IMG_20161021_042933

Ok, "time to "mash" some tender parts"

(what? read the instructions )

IMG_20161017_205022

The only thing worth noting is not to be hasty and add the section with the coal pile till the rest of the body is ready.

The ballast plates and pins aren't shown again, but I will use a dab of silicone between each plate, and a thin smear on the bottom of the stack and on top of it, just around the pin's holes to prevent rattles and lessen chance of impacts breaking something. I'll be letting it cure before adding it to the floor inside the tender, and glueing the pins in place.

These first six parts fit well enough, but the assembly is rickity without the rubberbands. This is a dry fitting, no glue. If glueing brings up anything worth mentioning, I will.

IMG_20161016_093409

The front slips into place easily enough, nothing unsightly.

IMG_20161016_092950

Tank covers pop right in

IMG_20161016_092859

Front frame too; never removed a band.

IMG_20161016_092552

Fill hatch went on with a slight press, and stays put, even without glue.

IMG_20161016_093233

There was no flash to remove. Just a few sprue connections to clean up.

Attachments

Images (8)
  • IMG_20161021_042933
  • IMG_20161021_043026
  • IMG_20161017_205022
  • IMG_20161016_093409
  • IMG_20161016_092950
  • IMG_20161016_092859
  • IMG_20161016_092552
  • IMG_20161016_093233

Somewhat disorganized, but I've never done this before, didnt plan, and am just winging it. It's keeping me from building it "overnight" though. A good thing; I'd need another before my wallet was really ready, lol...I had a drainpipe's nipple break. Still trying to figure out a good layout use for the impressive "Spray-seal" I used for a temp fix while waiting on help for a week. It worked so well I think there has to be a train use too.

(That's a hint to put your thinking caps on folks.)

Expect a letter by next weekend Mike. I'm looking at something of interest for you again too. Hopefully there will be another box after it vs just two letters. It's all hinging on a ride at the right time, just like last time. Static, I know; but did you ever put a hitch on that MoW truck? Hi-rail the trailer?

Hi Adriatic, I'm glad your leak is holding, and I agree with you I am sure the spray flexseal will work somewhere on a train layout. No, no hitch as of yet, I got side tracked building a lift for a Atlas Pratt bridge I bought on here. That has been taking me awhile, that and DR. appointments. I hope to get back to that soon as I am almost done with the lift for the bridge. I just need to pick up a gas cyclinder to slow the lowering down. I will post some pictures on here soon. I look forward to your letters, I am sure there is some great stories in them.

Last edited by mike g.

I'm waiting till last and finishing the engine to apply the brass fittings and rails.

IMG_20161017_213348

Done, it weighs about 9 1/2oz, 250grams. I have at least six lighter and all have at least some weight added, so its no ultra light like you may expect.

(Edit*-the engine requires 0-36)

*And it runs on 027 no problem.  The.flanges are smaller than Lionel's but not exact scale; its made to operate well instead. I ended up raiding the ancient button box and haystack of needles, where i came up with two stainless steel hat pins to clip so I have a axles. Later I'll need to line the wheel hubs with brass tube. I gave it a test behind a general using a wire scrap coupling and pulled three cars

IMG_20161022_230239

I just gooped glue over the pegs to encapsulate them and set the walls and top first.

IMG_20161022_170819IMG_20161023_142607

Made sure the holes for the brass rail stand offs lined up and that seams sat even.

IMG_20161022_230021

Catching up on my current events while it dries.  Lol.   A vintage newspaper special I saved.

IMG_20161023_140019

Attachments

Images (7)
  • IMG_20161017_213348
  • IMG_20161017_213248
  • IMG_20161022_230239
  • IMG_20161022_170819
  • IMG_20161023_142607
  • IMG_20161022_230021
  • IMG_20161023_140019
Last edited by Adriatic

Dry now, I have a solid shell and chassis. I reinforced the shell further inside the shell, with a caulk-like bead of glue along the top and side seams running between corners. And my seams turn out well enough, but there is a gap at the coal pile and floor. Fishing the bottom into the shell to be glued and clamped will take four clamps to close all gaps, and seat fully, as the frame has an ever so slight warp to it. It would also seal off the tender forever. So, not knowing if electronics might be installed someday either. I chose to modify it with four screws to hold the shell on, and draw the gap at the coal pile closed. It worked , easily pulling it closed . or shown).IMG_20161022_224341

 

This is the gap before though

IMG_20161022_224403

Screws ended up on the other side of the beam, closer to the ends but I'm going to add two more here just for overkill.

IMG_20161023_135919

 

IMG_20161023_134723IMG_20161023_134928

 

IMG_20161022_225052IMG_20161022_225038

That toy coupler sits way to low and actually rubs the axle too, but it worked on my elevated line no problem, so it should be great once trimmed and bent with heat. Next to the generals tender for comparing size.

IMG_20161022_224447

I had to widen the gap cabs gap with excess wire on the tempory rig. Close enough? Hope so, because I'm keeping about there.

IMG_20161022_224235

Done enough to run so the loco is next before I go further on this.

Attachments

Images (9)
  • IMG_20161022_224341
  • IMG_20161022_224403
  • IMG_20161023_135919
  • IMG_20161023_134723
  • IMG_20161023_134928
  • IMG_20161022_225052
  • IMG_20161022_224235
  • IMG_20161022_224447
  • IMG_20161022_225038

Well I did a lot. Wanting to prepare for three rail conversion, I shot ahead, not following the directions exactly, by order or example.

The important thing I discovered is, built as designed, this is an 0-42-ish locomotive, and will need a longer drawbar to even run on 0-36.

  It can't run on 0-31 because the pilot truck can't swing enough as is. Later I may relocate it from the fixed post, to an arm to allow more arc necessary to follow the noses overhang on 0-31 or smaller; but only if it does OK on Super-O's semi-correct flat top profile at 0-36. It barely clears gauge from the pilot posts overhang on 0-36; so I might have to grind a hair off from the truck's plastic, in the guide slot's ends too.

That said, no connecting rods , 2wd, a bridge rectifier and 1 diode for a voltage drop, it at least runs.  I think traction will be more a drawback than motor strength. Right now it seems it needs the former GG-1's pickup arm springs unwound a loop, and my custom pilot spring set up's downforce spring lightened or eliminated. Or more weight added?

Glue had to be applied and the frame juggled together without losing the position of the motor plate, spacers, and draw bars pin.IMG_20161023_233409IMG_20161023_233510

I also soldered the leads to. The pick up pin's terminals seen here and there.IMG_20161023_224346IMG_20161024_183401

The cabs rear supports kept straight for attaching.

IMG_20161024_183826

End result and a couple better shots of the motor plate and freshly greased gear. The wheels are a no brainer, gear to the rear and the others slip into the correct holes. The center drivers have a copper spring plate that just sits on a peg held down by that axle and the gear cover.

IMG_20161024_210628

Also if you look closely at each wheel between the frame and wheel flanges you'll see a small silver pin, than is actually a small plunger that rides the flange for electrical pick up. They just press through each of the terminals I pre soldered, wedging into the frame holes.IMG_20161024_232908

IMG_20161024_200528

A cab support needs to be re-glued. Its weak and flexing there for some reason. Like that drop of glue won't cure. 24 hrs still flexes..??? (Newer glue there).

That's it for step "1" on the instructions. It looks harder than it is. The cab supports are the hardest thing so far. One step worse than the tender wall assembly.

 

Attachments

Images (9)
  • IMG_20161023_233409
  • IMG_20161023_233510
  • IMG_20161023_224346
  • IMG_20161024_183401
  • IMG_20161024_210344
  • IMG_20161024_183826
  • IMG_20161024_210628
  • IMG_20161024_232908
  • IMG_20161024_200528

The last few days centered around the pilot truck working on Super Is 0-36 curves, but the assembly was simple. Glue the frame halves to the center guide, insert wheel sets, cover with bottoms and tighten two screws.IMG_20161024_205907IMG_20161017_210713IMG_20161017_210556

The drivrrs are hitting the fenders as is. I may trim the curved edge, making the diameter bigger or shim them out later, but I'm leaving those and the brakes off for now.IMG_20161017_210941IMG_20161017_211108

The short connecting rods added, along with the black metal guide plate, where I mounted the bridge rectifier for running the DC motor on AC voltage. Both are mounted on the same screw, alonger replacement from my own box o screws. The long rod and valve gear wait till I'm ready.IMG_20161017_211238IMG_20161024_201715

 

The mtors worm was MASHED against the axle gear once assembled. 2 washers under the plate at the rear mounting screw #32 gave a nice mesh. After a slight break in of twenty minutes as an 0-6-0 frame, one washer was removed. After another hour or two, I'll try to remove the other. Also note, the many holes for screws #117, within the motors end cap are in a spiral patten for universal mounting. You have to turn and align the motor position till two cap holes face to match the width of the two plate holes/slots. The red bar to the right is the ballast weight. The pilot screw #118 screws into a hole at the bars tip; but I assembled this differently for 0-36. A screw will hold  the ballast bar there though, as you'll see next post.

IMG_20161028_061750

 

I'm using a heavier wire from motor to bridge rectifier's + & -  output lega than what was supplied..

It is a closer match to the donor GG-1 roller wire(variable, ~ input on BR) and closer to the combined dia of the 4 wheel plungers wires actually supplied, all combined into one "common"(com on BR ~ input)

IMG_20161024_234836

 

The gear/axle cover needed three holes drilled, stratigicly positioned fore and aft of a frame support. One small hole for an attaching screw, one large hole for the wire, one large hole for the centering tab. The centering tab was insulated with three layers of tape, stuck over the tab,  but under the roller.; sandwiched.IMG_20161025_021020IMG_20161025_021004

Attachments

Images (12)
  • IMG_20161024_205907
  • IMG_20161017_210713
  • IMG_20161017_210941
  • IMG_20161017_211108
  • IMG_20161017_211238
  • IMG_20161017_211238
  • IMG_20161024_201715
  • IMG_20161028_061750
  • IMG_20161024_234836
  • IMG_20161025_021004
  • IMG_20161025_021020
  • IMG_20161017_210556

If you look into the frame near the lead drivers you can get an idea of how the bridge rectifier is mounted. The diode I had used to shave off 1.5v was removed. The motor likes over 12v just fine. It doesn't get as hot at 13.5 either. With the whistle circuit of the 1033 adding 5v, 18v sends it flying, minimal heat. The 0-36 pilot arm mod still needs to be added here, but pulls a few cars nice as a chassis...with some fishing lead to help weight.

 

IMG_20161025_023542

IMG_20161017_215417

Ididn't from follow these instructions to the letter. I did it my own way again. I want it to be able to be disassembled for painting, service, and upgades, so the boiler/cab will remain unglued from the floor/boiler belly. But it was used to brace the cab was for.glue cure, then for the cab to boiler glueing too, just to keep the whole thing staight, greatly helping on assembly. My way it will need two to four floor level.plastic plates made to go in the cabs corners to receive screws up through the floor boards to the cab/boiler to.hold it on nice. That can wait, its really just to close toe seams better; it's solid enough for the most part right now.

1st glued these two thickly. This area is going to have a nice strength to it when the other side gets the boiler too.

IMG_20161024_202210

The blue tube, citrus based glue is slow curing.IMG_20161024_204610

Note the ballst bar at the belly's tip. The tapped hole for the long pilot screw/post goes there. Halfway down the belly is machine screw holding the bar again there. The two bosses at the rear attach the frame later.IMG_20161024_233129

The boiler nose is next.IMG_20161024_233040

Attachments

Images (7)
  • IMG_20161017_215417
  • IMG_20161024_202210
  • IMG_20161024_204610
  • IMG_20161024_204540
  • IMG_20161024_233129
  • IMG_20161025_023542
  • IMG_20161024_233040

Using the instructions illustration to locate parts led me on a wild goose chase for #70, a spacer like the frame has 3 of. There was no #75 on the tree nor a space for one. I could always drill it out if adding it hindered me, and  seeing a tab of use, I made my own and used it, assembling the half's around the tab. The assembly then got glued to the cab, and cured sitting loose on the floorboard/belly, to hold it in alignment.

Then I finally read the text , but no mention of it there . A withdrawn part but no edit to the illustration was done. This was before I knew Id be altering the pilot trucks attachment too. Its also the boiler's forward attachment point to the frame.

So I soon knew for sure I couldn't modify the post to work well. I opened the spacers hole and tried to let the weight assembly pivot but it wasn't enough, and so the long post and spring set was skipped, leaving a loose boiler. The added spacer plate being there can hold it by screw & washer now, so Im very glad I added that tab for no good known reason. If the screw head there wasn't short and recessed, as.it is now, and easiest to do now anyhow, it would need to have a long screw & washer to hold things secured to  the boilers square mount boss, and a  screw head there would interfere with the pilot truck . There was also another screw clearance issue that would have doubled the fun once the pilot truck got a different screw. Hunting hardware may have made this unnecessary, but taken hours...this is crude, but done, functions well, and there isn't much in the way of underside detail anyhow. It wasn't weakened much, but I may still fill the frame with JB Weld where I needed to clearance for the yellow pivot arms screw to the pilot. The yellow arm, screw, and square lock nut are modern mini- Erector Set pieces lol. It has run for over an hour without derailing now, but before I found the sweet spot, it took 3 hours of tweaking and clearancing to keep the pilot wheels planted for a lap. Once that spot was found however; no issues. Having the boiler on was the key. This thing has a balance over the center driver and needs a forward bias, while I was using a rear bias with sinker on the chassis trying to keep the load on the geared rear axle, and therefore less sideload strain on the only partially completed rod sets driving the fronts. Traction is lacking at this point. It's not heavy enough.  One lighted generals coach, or a wood reefer and two bobbers is its limit; but that changes.IMG_20161025_025345IMG_20161028_195324IMG_20161028_195401IMG_20161024_220628IMG_20161028_052547IMG_20161025_023520

Attachments

Images (6)
  • IMG_20161024_220628
  • IMG_20161025_025345
  • IMG_20161028_195324
  • IMG_20161028_195401
  • IMG_20161025_023520
  • IMG_20161028_052547
Last edited by Adriatic

IMG_20161028_053142

Now weighing in at 1lb 8z. the light went in ...I bet it doesn't stay there though, lol. Not really a better place for an L.e.d., but till this dies, it stays...sort of.

The bread tie is to pull the wedged sinker out if needed. I filled the length of the boiler up pretty tight.

 It can pull two lit pass.cars &  two bobber cabooses, or 3 medium-heavy scale size cars W/loads, with 2 bobber cabins, or 5 freights twin bobber crummies....fraternal  

 Basically, it pulls pretty good now. Lack of traction is still holding it back more than anything I think. (Im having trouble deciding, but I think Id like three more volts to try so the kW or 18b might get moved to the layout again, lol. I used 1033s and their lesser watt. relatives, selectively, matching strongest transformers to weakest tracks and most accessory draw. The result is as I run things , I can jam the throttles to full and relax with few exceptions. An "upgrade"  to higher volts will bypass that custom child safety option.) Is +2-4v going to help or just increase the occasional wheel slip? Will fixing of rod side loads when those are completed help? Maybe. I could fill the shell closer to solid with splitshot too.  If I try light weight 0-27 fast angle boxcars and gondolas I bet I'd get ten on, so it out performs a few starter locos of the era. It pulls my intended minimum load plus the optional car: A  boxcar with no needle point axles, or lionel short mpc flat & good load.

  A wood reefer on pw needle points, a loaded bobber gon, a weighted bobber tanker, and a single bobber caboose were what I wanted for know.

  I'm thinking about bashing on some short On30 coaches. I need a short ultralight coach car on good trucks...six of um

Attachments

Images (4)
  • IMG_20161028_054204
  • IMG_20161028_054317
  • IMG_20161028_053948
  • IMG_20161028_053142
prrhorseshoecurve posted:

nice story so far. I have a Casey Jones kit and I am watching you and your build. Funny how pics in your last post didn't show up.

Thanks, I think the pics are ok now. You might have caught the post early too. I've seen posts where the photos didn't show for me for hours, though I knew that others could see them right away I figure it was dependant on OS (this was pre-android too) The latest updates today seem to have eased some droid issues, but if anything is blank or black for more than overnight let me know as my view just might differ.

And fyi I will still be checking into getting this to fit 0-31 curves, but I think the cylinders would need to be raised, moved outward from the frame, or shortened to clear the pilot wheels. Any of which would need rod and valve work too. The other option is a custom pilot truck or 1/8" -ish extending of the present one to clear the cylinders at their front and rear.

Hopefully this short plays ok. If so, a short from another angle will be posted in "What did you do on your layout today", today, in just a bit. I'd link but I would loose this post if I change pages to copy the address.

I found it does well at slower speeds than this too. The motor is decent on torque really, just a bit slower than I'm used to seeing with my "toys"

(But the voltage higher than 14v (estimate for now) wakes up more torque and the speed both. A longer train can be had, I'm very sure. This was my minimum requirement, easily pulled)

Attachments

Videos (1)
TRIM_20161029_022932
Last edited by Adriatic

   Once the tender, cab and boiler were put together, overall, the remaining kit doesn't seem much more complicated than a plane or automobile from a department store. It's a rather deceiving bulk presence. I've had way more issues with battery operated automobile models of the era too. I give it a B+ to A- on a strict grading curve where plastic peaks at A vs A+. I will surely build another AHM/Rivarossi given the chance. (Not giving this a Prussian blue boiler is killing me already, lol.)

Last edited by Adriatic

I thought I had loaded a slower moving video. Lots of problems with my device then..actually,the new one is having issues right,now too.. But the point is it didn't take to posting then.

I found one copy, though silly and not the best cut I made, it shows this thing can creep,for an old convential steamer, and with a decent load behind it too. It had me giggling how slow and smooth it is. I just plain wasn't expecting it to run so well.

When I finally break down for another computer, I will edit out all the bad predictive text mistakes, and unneeded info to make it an easier read. Writing isn't my strong suit. With all the android bugginess it's pretty bad.

It out pulls one of the two mpc RIP chrome Generals I own by 1 car and is an equal to the other today.

Two years later, it has a lot of scale miles on it too. The valve gear was never added as I broke a metal post/rivet and just haven't gone out for #2 screws yet. It may need smaller than#2 also. Not sure what my small tap supply looks like after opening my tool box for what turned out to be an irresponsible tenant.   It needs it's worm grease checked again by now, wheels & rods squeak if the bushing go dry, but no black oil, or any indication of excessive wear anyplace.

While loading the video, I recalled I did post about the decal set failing; falling apart on the wet paper. I scanned for it real,fast, but didn't notice it.   

  I added some red fancy scroll work decals from a 70s style custom paint job on car model, but I'm not really content with the look. I want an ICRR & 382 in a similar or exact font style as came with it.

But anyhow, I love this loco and wouldn't think twice about another. (Hi Mike)

Shot about two years ago....

 

Attachments

Videos (1)
XiaoYing_Video_1480395756017

Bringing this thread up to date, do any OGR members have info on the Rivarossi product line of O scale 2 rail track?

Was it manufactured with Code 100 nickel silver rail or larger?  Were any turnouts produced?  A Google search failed to bring up what I'm looking for.  Any information will be helpful and appreciated.

Item: The late Bob Hegge's fantastic 2 rail O scale Crooked Mountain Lines interurban railway he constructed was built to fine scale standards and used Code 100 rail!

Thanks

Joe

Last edited by Trinity River Bottoms Boomer

Add Reply

Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×