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@rplst8 posted:

I couldn’t find anything in stock at Digikey or Mouser that was instantaneous from Eaton when I looked a few days ago, but this doc below has a cut away of their AR series breakers and they specifically talk about extinguishing grids to control arcing. Is that sort of the feature you were looking for @SteveH?

https://www.eaton.com/content/...eries-ca130003en.pdf

Ryan, than you for looking for a solution and the link.  Eaton's extinguishing grids do appear to perform the same or similar function as an Arc Chute and Arc Dissipation Plates.  I'm hoping we'll also get to see and understand what's inside the Airpax Snapac specifically and if it's any different from others.



@harmonyards Pat, thank you for offering to cut open one of your older Airpax breakers.  I look forward to seeing your pictures of it.



Cal, thank you for your insights and reply.  Please see my comments and questions below within your quote box.

@Caldwell posted:

Steve I have enough knowledge about electrical to be dangerous and I have not heard arc shoots in twenty years.  I will try to answer your questions about that since you have waded into the area of serious circuit breakers.

A couple of simple observations. No such thing as an instantaneous breaker. Yes that's absolutely true, these claim a trip time of 0.1 seconds = "Instant". That's why every time I have used that word I put it in quotes. The breaker has two pieces of metal and when bad things happen they open.  There is always an arc between the contacts until they are far enough apart. In large heavy duty breakers it takes a serious gap for the arc to stop. Hence the need for shoots. Understood  I would guess a minor factor in train applications. Probably so, but there is still an arc that would cause pitting on the contacts if not dealt with in some way.  These Airpax breakers have an endurance rating of "in excess of 50,000 cycles..." (which is reduced by higher voltages and current loads).  So, until Pat looks inside, we may not know exactly how these breakers absorb the arc energy.

Back  to your original questions go back to Pat and John  (John?), speed and the curves on time.  Not sure what you mean here, but I do understand the trip curves for the 3 delay types and my original questions are unrelated to time delays.  Would you please clarify what you're saying if unrelated to trip delay curve?

Back feed well we have had cases when motors turned into generators and that wreaked havoc but not a concern with train motors.  My understanding is that back feed can and does occur in both cases (just many orders of magnitude less in model trains).  In the case of a derailment, the generated voltage spikes can be much higher than normal operating voltage due to two or more motors' rapid field coil discharge currents.  Of course, this can be diminished when TVS diodes are strategically placed within the circuit (but TVS has been well covered elsewhere).

The back feed conditions I was trying to ask about were unclear.  What I'm wondering is:

Even though there are other very good reasons not to do so (and not the question being asked), are there any reasons why permanently connecting a 120 - 240V AC Hydraulic-Magnetic circuit breaker backwards (ie. line terminal connected to the load and vice versa) might diminish is rated service life (endurance = number of cycles before failure)?

and

Does a 120 - 240V AC Hydraulic-Magnetic breaker containing an Arc Chute dissipate a breaking arc current which might flow into the breaker from either Terminal (Load and/or Line sides) by routing the arc thorough the chute, regardless of which pole the current enters?

Thank you again to all who've contributed to this topic so far.

OK... a stupid question from an electronic idiot.

I have used the digi-key breakers for quite some time on my pre & post war transformers... and, apparently I am incredibly lucky as I have to date, never blown a board or compromised the functionalities therein.  I certainly must have crossed the derailment threshold to provide ample opportunities to attain a blown board.

Which breaker will trip first... the 7amp digi-key or the 10amp breaker discussed herein?

Excellent Thread BTW... THANK YOU!

Dennis, the 7A breaker you're talking about is a Potter & Brumfield W28-XQ1A-7 for use in slow-blow applications.  It uses a different Thermal Magnetic internal mechanism to operate than the Airpax.  The P&B is also heat dependent, where the Airpax isn't.

Potter and Brumfield Breaker Features

In the P&B, as the current flow through it rises above the rated trip value, it would be much slower to open the circuit than an Airpax so-called "instant" breaker with a comparable current rating.  Here is the Trip delay curve from the Potter & Brumfield W28 series datasheet:

Potter and Brumfield Trip curvejpg



I've not seen a trip delay curve for the breakers built into the PW ZWs (when they were new) but I'm guessing it's close to the same as the external circuit breakers you have.  If you're running TMCC, DCS or Lion chief equipment around the Christmas tree, some faster breakers, might be worth considering, (as well as an Adult proof railing ).  Postwar type Locos, might be fine as is.

Attachments

Images (2)
  • Potter and Brumfield Breaker Features
  • Potter and Brumfield Trip curvejpg
Last edited by SteveH

@SteveH ....I've not seen a trip delay curve for the breakers built into the PW ZWs (when they were new) but I'm guessing it's close to the same as the external circuit breakers you have.  If you're running TMCC or Lion chief equipment around the Christmas tree, some faster breakers, might be worth considering, (as well as an Adult proof railing ).  Postwar type Locos, might be fine as is.

no need to worry about trip curves on PW ZW’s....when my stick welder fails out in the garage, I use my trusty ZW to weld things back together!..🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

even with the fastest breaker on earth, diode suppression still might be a good idea as a back up plan, to keep the harmful shot from heading in the wrong direction.....

Pat

Unfortunately I don’t have the knowledge to add to this very informative discussion, however when all is said and done it would be great to have a list of components and a diagram on how to incorporate these items.  That would include breakers, diodes and tvs’s.         Thanks to all the knowledgeable people for making this post possible.

@Keith k posted:

Unfortunately I don’t have the knowledge to add to this very informative discussion, however when all is said and done it would be great to have a list of components and a diagram on how to incorporate these items.  That would include breakers, diodes and tvs’s.         Thanks to all the knowledgeable people for making this post possible.

Keith, that's a good suggestion. However, it might be difficult to come up with a one size fits all diagram, for all the possible breaker applications encountered in a model railroad layout.  But there are some general points that could be addressed in your suggestion.  Also, FWIW the diodes Pat mentioned are the TVS (Transient Voltage Suppression diode).

Last edited by SteveH

Thank you much guys!

I run some Conventional.  My Legacy & TMCC Locos run via Legacy (no tiu/aiu/dcc/dcs etc).  I guess I've just been really, really lucky through all the derails with the TMCC & Legacy Locos.  I did grab a ZW-L that provides track power to the new permanent layout.  I'll keep an eye on this thread and upgrade the protection on the pre/post transformers once you guys nail this down.  Thanks again for your great work and service to the community.

As an experiment, I set up my layout about 10 years ago with a "textbook" TMCC/Legacy arrangement, each 180 watt brick is connected to a Legacy Powermaster, using the recommended Lionel cables and fuses, with absolutely no other breakers, fuses, TVSS diodes or anything. No electronic failures so far despite the typical share of derailments and tools on the track. I run Legacy, TMCC, Lionchief Plus and a tiny bit of conventional.

The protection in the 180 watt bricks is fast, but the Legacy Powermaster is even faster, it is almost impossible to trip the breaker in the brick; the Powermaster almost always trips first.

No pre-war/post-war transformers involved. Personally, I think pre-war/post-war transformers are the root of a lot more electronic evil than is generally appreciated.

YMMV.

You're probably right, I run with the PH180 bricks through the TIU and on to the tracks.  I get even more protection as each TIU channel has a TVS on the output.

We've also run our modular club that way since it was formed about ten years ago.  We don't have electronics dropping like flies, even though that environment has generous amounts of shorts, bad connections, derailments, etc.  If you think you have track or derailment issues on a fixed layout, try clamping 20+ modular sections together with a couple of C-clamps each and running on that!   Yes, we also have lots of tools and other debris on the tracks from setup and repair before the show, that takes it toll.

After cutting open one of the 10A "Instant" and doing some testing with it, my questions have been answered.  I've updated the first post in this thread with these findings and the internal pics of it, if anyone else might be interested.  There are also links to where the instant series can be purchased, as of now.  The 7.5 and 10A are in short supply.

Link Back To Top

Thanks for that , about what I expected, but now I know for sure what's in them.

About what I expected too, but the tiny U-shaped arc chute is cute.  It's also interesting to me that the coil assembly is stationary.  IMO a good compact design for low current applications.

It's also noteworthy, that when connected directly across the ZW outputs inline with an analog Ammeter,  the 10A instant breakers (tested both with 1 and 2 connected in series) tripped (simultaneously) as soon as I barely opened the ZW throttle.  The needle on the ammeter barely moved, as should be expected.

Also tested with a with a 5A fast blow fuse in one of the test leads, and if the throttle was rapidly opened to about 12V, the breaker would trip leaving the fuse intact.  At 6V ( and ~ 30 ohms in series) the fuse blew first.

Last edited by SteveH
@Windy City posted:

I am just getting back into the hobby and have several Allen Bradley model 1492-GH100 single pole circuit breaker.

I have no idea who recommended them.  Please share any information.  

Unable so far to find much info on these, except that they are thermal magnetic and rather pricey. No data found on their trip characteristics.

Maybe if you were to Post a new topic indicating that you're looking for info on these specific breakers, that might grab more attention.

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