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Hey guys. I thought I would share my build of the AMW Boiler House. I purchased this kit over a year ago and it sat on the shelf while I worked on my new layout. It took me about (3) weeks of off and on days to build the model as shown.

This is my first kit I built from AMW. The kit was without some faults. I should have inspected it on delivery but just parked it on the shelf. All but (2) of the plastic castings around the cathedral windows were broken in 2 pieces. The lower plastic wall castings on the short walls were too short, the same for the top cap pieces. I would have preferred to have them longer than short, I could have cut or sanded them to fit. I attempted to fill in some of the gaps with Squadron Green putty and then sand. Overall, I decided to space the wall evenly and just have slightly uneven corners. The main casting with the mitered corners fit together perfect so I am not sure what caused the problem. In all fairness to Bob, I did send him an email over two weeks ago with pics about the window trim pieces but I never got a response. I know he is busy but I should have inspected the kit upon receipt. So I take the blame.

Anyway, all is good. I think the building came out great. The optional smokestack adds to the overall industrial look.

When I purchased the kit, I also wanted to purchase the boilers for the interior but they were not available. I came up with my own interior and like it a lot. It provides a lot of detail and looks good when the lights are on. Instead of a boiler house to provide steam…I jumped forward a few decades and added (2) diesel powered generators and also a mezzanine floor. On the mezzanine, I added (2) fans and a backup generator. The mezzanine is accessed with a caged ladder. I also added a cage ladder for roof access.

On the roof, I reinforced the supplied plastic sheet with another laminate. I built a roof access hatch, a water tower and also an air handling unit.

The illumination is provided by (4) Woodland Scenic’s LED’s. I did not use the provided roof trusses but supported the roof with 6mm by 6mm wood strips around the perimeter.

Finally, I built an access well and steps to the “basement” using an idea I owe to Norm C. I will add railings a little later.

I still need to add a few more details but that will happen when the rest of the area is finished. If you guys are familiar with my style of modeling, I do not use a lot of weathering on structures or the trains. I like things clean. However, I did dust the bottom concrete joints with some weathering powders.

In the engine service peninsula, I still need to build a Control House from TWtrainWorx (to house the Millhouse control pad for the transfer table) and also the massive AMW engine house that you can see the base on a few pics. And then add in all the details!

Enjoy the pics.

Donald

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Thanks for the kind words guys. Much appreciated. 

Hey Bill, to answer your questions. The diesel motor generators and the fans on the mezzanine were castings that KORBER produced a long time ago. I remember buying them at the Allentown Train show 20 - 25 years ago. I believe it was the son or somebody that either took over or was helping out before the business was sold. The castings were "pretty rough" and needed a lot of tender care to fill in the voids with putty and sand smooth. They spent their lives in my parts bin until last week when I resurrected them for this project. I do not know if anything similar is available. The tanks inside are an old Lionel cannister and one I made from spare parts. Most of the detail castings are from Model Tech Studios (MTS). All equipment is elevated on a piece of 0.25" MDF with a tile applique I printed on the computer.

Hey Joe. The stairs were easy to do if you have a table saw and a chop saw for precision cuts. Everything was made from 0.25" MDF and then glued together. I ripped down a few pieces to the required width and cut to the exact length for a tight fit. First I made a "box" with four sides and a base. Then I added the stairs. The stairs are simply 0.25" pieces of MDF stacked on top of each other. Each one is a quarter of an inch shorter than the one beneath it. Most industrial stairs adhere to the "7-11" rule. That is a rise of 7" with a tread of 11". I cheated and made my risers and treads all 12" to keep it simple and to make the "run" of the stairs a little more compact using the 12" riser. Nobody can tell the difference. I made the stair width (or the inside dimension of the box) 42" scale inches. Most industrial mandoors are 36" x 84". That meant I needed 8 risers to drop a scale 8 feet. The door is not installed at this time. The door is scrap styrene that I laminated a piece of "scribed siding" over it. The trim pieces around the door are 0.125" square plastic stock (this is a little overkill for trim). I plan to add a doorknob using a "HO" track nail drilled thru the plastic and painted gold. Attached are (2) more pics. 

Cut a hole in your table top to fit the box and support it with the top curbing (thin pieces of wood stock). Now that I see the close up pics of the curbing, I do not like the wood grain showing thru. Most likely I will skim coat over this and sand smooth.  I will weather the concrete a bit and add handrail to either side of the opening. Finally, either a street light or lamp above the door for illumination.  

Have a good day everybody.

Donald

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