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I am making the assumption you are running Gilbert post war engines. If you have a steam engine (other than a Docksider), the engine should never spark at the wheels since all power pickup is in the tender. If the tender has 4 wheel trucks cleaning the pickup wheels (and track) should eliminate the sparking. If the tender has 6 wheel trucks it is possible the axle holes in the sideframes are worn and the truck frame is dragging on the rails. If so, take out the wheels, bend down the copper axle wipers to increase the tension, then reinstall the wheels. This usually works as a temporary fix. If the engine drivers spark then a tire has come loose at the whitewall insulator. Reattach it with a drop of superglue.

If you are running a diesel then a careful cleaning of the wheels (and sliding pickups if present) should eliminate all sparking. All engines will spark if the track is not clean.

Hi Folks,

I have used Rail Zip to eliminate tender wheel sparking on my S gauge track:

http://www.supergluecorp.com/?q=zap/zap-rail-zip

I apply it sparingly with a q-tip, let it sit on the rails overnight, then wipe it off with a piece of old t-shirt.  I also use it on the metal tender wheels and axles.  It hasn't hurt the plastic wheels, either.

Hope this helps!

Take care, Joe.

P.S.  It also reduces sparking on worn tinplating (3 rail O gauge track) and improves conductivity.   J.

Last edited by Joe Rampolla

Hi Tom,

I have used the Rail Zip on original Gilbert, new S gauge track (same look, size, etc.), and 3 rail tinplate, but others have used it on nickel-silver HO track.  I'd say you can go several months before re-applying.  But I'd work on the tender wheels first, let the product sit overnight, then hit the wheels lightly with a little piece of Scotch-Bright pad if there are any rough spots.  Remember, and there will be a difference of opinion here, Scotch-Bright pads are abrasive and I never use them for regular cleaning, only to remove stubborn  rust.  The naphtha in the Rail Zip is a great cleaner and should penetrate any dirt. 

Without the Rail Zip, my AF e-unit would need to be locked into the forward position for the train to make it around the layout.

Good Luck!

Take care, Joe.

Last edited by Joe Rampolla

There is no problem using ScotchBrite pads on Gilbert track. It is an unplated steel alloy so the rails will not be damaged.

The GarGraves rail is formed from slightly thinner steel and the profile is not the same as Gilbert track. GarGraves has a more rounded top. There is no operating difference with PullMor engines but the link coupler engines without PullMor had less traction on grades on my layout. 

To keep track clean it is better to clean all the car wheels, not just pickup wheels. A consist with dirty plastic wheels seems to redeposit the dirt on the track. The best way I have to clean all these wheels is to couple in a Centerline track cleaning car for multiple laps around the layout. 

Hi Tom,

Actually, any cleaning method that is abrasive will cause fine scratches that collect dirt and invites oxidation.  I was warned off of using anything like a "bright boy" or Scotch-Bright on any track, solid or plated.  But everyone has their own opinions.  I know from personal experience that a solvent, like 91% isopropyl  alcohol, is best for cleaning non-problematic track and wheels.  The Rail Zip seems to leave a film that prevents oxidation with these temperamental situations.  I don't want to start a debate, but I am only saying what I recommend, and I always err on the side of caution.  When I have to clean heavy gunk off of metal wheels, I use a plastic fast-food knife, never a metal knife or screwdriver, or anything metal or abrasive, because they cause the fine scratches. 

Take care, Joe.

 

 

Last edited by Joe Rampolla

Joe, your comments on the ScotchBrite are of course correct, I was just commenting that Flyer track has no plating that can be damaged or removed. I clean my track and pickup wheels with electrical contact cleaner on a cloth. This also works well on the SHS rails. I am anxious to try the Rail Zip. Your comments on the affect of fine scratches is mindful of a series of posts about burnishing rail heads. Those who were able to burnish the rail reported better electrical contact and a much longer interval between cleanings. 

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