American Flyer reversing units

The troublesome AF reverse units can be frustrating. Sounds like you did the usual things. Don't know if you saw this but it may help: http://www.portlines.com/portlinesclinic23.htm

I have had a couple where it didn't seem to matter what I did but I am not the best technician. Depending on what you want to do, keep it all original, switching, watch em run, etc, I have just by passed or removed the unit and used a double pole double throw slide switch. The last resort is an electronic unit.

Thank you for that.

Tin

Tin...had the same problems you are having and followed some other advise and by-passed the e-unit.  Only thing you should know, if you don't already, is that you can only run the engine forward.  Simple and easy.  Good luck...

Dave

The link to the Portlines sight brought up a couple of questions:

Portlines recommends spreading the reversing unit sides to remove the drum. I've been pushing out the metal pin to release it. How do other people remove the drums?

Portlines also comments about there being different quality reversing unit fingers (contact assemblies). I have some fingers I purchased long ago that aren't very good. I just purchased a couple more from a major parts dealer that don't seem any better. As far as I know, only one person is making fingers. Where do you get the good ones for Flyer?

I've always bought my fingers from Doug at Portlines and have been happy with them. You may want to bend them in a little to make sure you get good contact. If you follow the instructions in the hints and tips section, they should work well. I've found that in a lot of cases twisting the finger that rides in the curved slot makes a big difference.

CW...I went to an auto parts store and bought an "O" ring expander tool to spread the sides of the e-unit.  It works like a charm and didn't cost much.  Hardest part is lining up all the "things" to get it back together.

I find the Flyer units are easier than Lionel to take apart and reassemble, but my success rate on Flyer is not as good. Cantankerous darn things.

Steve

They can be a pain, but doug has good fingers (no pun) and they hold up well 

on taking them apart I just bend them to get the roller out, then use Flitz polish on it 

to make it really clean, but I have to say the e-units from Lionel do work better,

I pack away a engine for two years and just put it on the track they still work 

great.

Tin 

I just got a batch of Doug's parts in for the shop a week ago. He's always been good to deal with.

Any good secrets to getting the plunger to drop on the 2 position reverse. Worked on one today for the first time. Cleaned it pretty good but still would not drop. Devised a little spring to help get it started down. Seems to work Ok, but I'd rather it work like it is supposed to.

Steve

True you should like to have it work like it was made, but I do like the later ones

on the five digit locos no problems there.

Tin  

 I take the 5 digit reverser completely apart. I remove the plunger and file all the edges on all corners after it is all smooth I check the brass "U" piece and make sure it is not overly bent on the corners buy 90 degrees. I clean the contacts and remove the crud that accumulates. Also, clean the contacts on the pendulum drum, polish all contacts that hold drum in position. Re-assembly is tricky but does go together easier than it looks.  Al

wow your brave.

Tin 

Go ahead and take it apart. You can gently pry the nylon assembly out of the tabs of the solenoid frame and it will come apart. Just be careful of yanking off any wires! Al

Those super fine wires scared me. Got old eyes and fingers  I'll leave the one I just did alone for now, but will have to give one a shot in the future.

Steve

Does someone have a drawing of the electrical wiring for bypassing the e-unit??

Essentially you jumper brush to field, and connect the two remaining brush and field wires to each post on the transformer (it doesn't matter which goes to base post and which to 7-15 volts).

Here is a drawing I found showing the wiring between tender and locomotive. I added in the wiring to bypass the reverse unit for bench testing. If you have extra tenders you could put the wiring in the tender, swapping out the original tender to run the locomotive on tracks.

I have two wiring diagrams showing how to wire both for forward and reverse directions. I found the orginal drawing on an Ameican Flyer site but can't remember which one, to give credit. If this violates any copyrights I will take it off. Hope this helps.

Rich

The AF reverse units (E-unit is an L term) can be reliable if carefully tended. The brass lever that turns the drum can develop a groove in it from rubbing against the edges of the stamped opening in the unit's frame. One needs to use a fine file to clean the edges of the hole and to remove the groove in the lever. Also, the lever needs to be free to move on the pin that's riveted to the lift plate.

I find that most reproduction fingers need to be re-bent to the correct shape and to land on the drum at the correct point to work reliably. Look at your old one to see how to change them--I use some small needle-nose pliers to do the trick.

Thank you, correction made.

Tin 

All of this discussion confirms my decision to have Steve at S-n-S Trains install Dallee electronic reversing units on my old Flyers.  He's done 6 or more for me and I've had no trouble with them.  The price is very reasonable and the quality of workmanship is very high.

Mark

Mark,

 Steve is a friend of mine, and wouldn't want to lose him any business, but what's the challenge in that???

Call me strange, but I do l like a challenge in making my AF trains run!

S'incerely,

David "two rails" Dewey

David,

I would love to be able to get old AF locos to run, but I don't have the know-how, the tools, the time or perhaps even the patience.  If there were somebody in my area (Pittsburgh) who could teach me a thing or two I would be grateful for the opportunity to learn.

Mark

Mark,

  I was just funnin'--Steve has a great product and it does solve a lot of problems. The one advantage of original ACG stuff, is that it is quite likely repairable  by non-electronic savvy folks in another 15 years or so. (like any of us know what the world will be like in 15 years!!)

It does take a bit of a, um, 'quirk' in one's personality to run trains with the all mechanical stuff--But that's me!!! I just picked up a "junker' AF diesel and by cleaning the commutator and straightening a reverse unit finger, it runs!! Sometimes you luck out!

S'

David "two rails' Dewey

It is fairly easy to tell if the fingers on the "E" unit need to be adjusted. Starting with the top fingers, the copper strip of the barrel should be on both fingers at the same time, that is the forward position. Take a tooth pick and press on either of the fingers and if the engine moves forward when pressing on one of the fingers, that is the finger that needs to be adjusted. If neither works than try the bottom fingers. Check out this youtube as he explains how the "E" unit works.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KPL80_a3eqA